JD 620 starter nose

[offroad23]

Looking for a starter nose cone for a 620. Starter 1113041, believe nose is 1935258. We had our current nose welded 6 months ago at welding shop. Took everything apart and it broke on same place in welds. After first time we have been sure to make sure things aren't moving before tdying to start.

 

[wore out]

Looking for a starter nose cone for a 620. Starter 1113041, believe nose is 1935258. We had our current nose welded 6 months ago at welding shop. Took everything apart and it broke on same place in welds. After first time we have been sure to make sure things aren't moving before tdying to start.

I can't help you with finding a new "nose cone", but can tell you it's likely breaking because of the engine "kicking back" because of advanced timing and/or there are damaged/mangled teeth on the ring gear that physically force the pinion away from the flywheel as the "bad spot" passes.

Have the base timing and the operation of the centrifugal advance in the distributor been checked?

 

[offroad23]

I can't help you with finding a new "nose cone", but can tell you it's likely breaking because of the engine "kicking back" because of advanced timing and/or there are damaged/mangled teeth on the ring gear that physically force the pinion away from the flywheel as the "bad spot" passes.

Have the base timing and the operation of the centrifugal advance in the distributor been checked?

Originally it broke out of my ignorance. Should of put a new battery in it when I bought it especially when I knew it hadn't run in several years and I didn't know well enough to let

everrything quit spinning before pressing starter again. On my welded nose looks to me they didn't get very good penetration. We did heat it up and reweld it ourselves, not sure how long it will last so would like to have replacement nose on hand. Also nut came off engagement linkage bolt for starter drive which probably attributed to failure.

 

[oldjohndeere]

When I broke mine several years ago I could not find one. I welded mine back together and it is still holding. I can see yours was not welded very good at all. You have to grind both edges almost all the way down and then fill back up with Nickle rod and you can even weld it up a little higher to give it extra strength. When mine broke it bent the armature but it was sent off and straightened.

 

[JIM MN]

Grind V on both sides, get nickle rod, line up pieces, hold in place, preheat with acetylene torch and weld. Give the crack extra weld for strength on both sides, you have room.

 

[Mark-Ia]

Have to get all that old brass off there before welding.

 

[offroad23]

It is all welded back up and reinstalled.

Still interested in a spare if someone has one

 

[Watthour]

That was my first thought - "It's not welded, but brazed." Nickel alloy would do nicely for that.

 

[offroad23]

That was my first thought - "It's not welded, but brazed." Nickel alloy would do nicely for that.

Right or wrong in my case this time we welded it. Heated it with a torch to warm everything up and then welded it, no brazing involved.

The first time it was fixed I was told the Tig welded it.