JD A Brakes

[Randy K. Crump]

How do you remove the drum off of the brakes on a JD A?

 

[Husker44A]

What year is your A ?

 

[toot]

Depending on year, some have a nut on the outside of the drum, some you have to pull the brake assembly out and the nut is on the gear. For those type the drum comes out with the shaft.

 

[RLA]

If it"s a real late production the drum can
be removed with removing the assemble from
the tractor. But just removing the outer nut.
The brake shaft is a tapperd fit shaft to drum
so it SHOULD BE TIGHT! You will need a way
to drive the shaft inward without hurting the
threads on the shaft.
But for most of them there is 2 1/2 bolts &
one 1/2 stud with a 13/16 or 7/8 wrench
size nut that hold the assemble to the trans
case. Plus a dowell pin. It might be easier if
the floor board is removed for you? I will say
on reassemble, MAKE SURE YOU ARE ABLE TO
TIGHTEN These bolts TIGHT!

 

[Randy K Crump]

1951

 

[wilamayb]

I have never seen an A with brakes with a nut on the outside. So far as I know only the late B tractors got that change. My 52 A is only around 300 tractors from the very last A built and it has brakes with the nuts on the inside. Unless someone put brakes off a 60 on your tractor you'll have to remove the brake assembly and remove the nut on the inside which will allow you to push the shaft out which is rivited to the drum.

If you have brakes off a 60 you can loosen the nut on the outside and use a block of wood and the biggest hammer in your shop to knock the shaft out of the tapered spline drum. Once you have it loose remove the assembly from the tractor.

 

[Hardline]

(quoted from post at 21:49:25 02/26/14) 1951

Remove the three bolts that hold it on. There will be a large bolt on the inside by the gear. That will allow the inner shaft and drum to come out of the assembly. Then you can repair the components.

 

[Mark-Ia]

According to my parts book, the only Model A with the nut on the outside is the Hi-Crop model and the AR/AO model. Your nut should be on the inside when the brake is removed from the tractor.

 

[Pappy]

Mark-Ia has it right. One other thing I will suggest, When you are ready to pull the shaft out of the casting, clean the splines with a good file to remove any "FLASH" that may have occurred on the splines from wear. When pulling the shaft out, do not hold the drum and rotate it to pull it out. You will ream the bushings. It is much better to pull straight out.

 

[pbb]

Do like Hardline said. I removed the brakes off a 37 48 and a 52 A and they all came apart the same way. You might have to loosen the square haed adjustor bolt if the drums have a lip on them. Sometimes if the drum is wore real bad the shoes hang up on them and wont want to slide off. One I did the adjustors were froze up with rust and brake dust. I had to beat it on a 4x4 on the floor until it came off.

 

[James Howell]

Take a look at the diagram for the brakes on a Model A.

Remove the three bolts that secure the housing (Key 24) and slide the housing out.

Remove the nut (Key 34) from the end of the brake shaft (Key 2).

Remove the pinion (Key 32).

Remove the brake shaft and brake drum from the housing.

You might consider replacing the gasket.

Hope this helps.

 

[Kent Petersen]

Boys all model A row crops had the nut on inside, late Bs and all G s had it on the out side

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

On my 51 A, one drum is loose on the shaft. Most of the time no problem but once in a while it will start vibrating and makes one heck of a noise. Have to tap the brake to stop it. It's just loose on the rivets, anybody know a way to tighten them up?

 

[James Howell]

Had the same problem with the left brake on one of our Model 70s.

Took it to the dealership and had the rivets replaced.