JD A manifold

JD A 1951 - exhaust/intake manifold. Do any of the stud bolts go into the water jacket in the head or are they all a dead end hole? Secondy, what is the torque of the stud bolts? Third, should I use any gasket adhesive on the exhaust/intake manifold gasket? THANKS!
 
In my time with tinkering with these I have seen the right front stud leak when removed. But I don't think it suppose too.
Good chance someone had been there be for. If the mating port flanges don't look ( GREAT ) I've used Hi Temp silicon along with a
new gasket & have had good success. I am sure there is a torque spec. But I Use tight enough not to leak. If the flange's bad I get
the cylinder head & manifold machined.
 
I went through drilling a couple out recently. None of the go through although some PO could have drilled one out and overdid it. Shouln't need a sealer if the surfaces are OK. I don't know of any torque specs, just tighten them evenly, they are grade 5 studs. I had no trouble cutting them with a hacksaw.
 
(quoted from post at 09:14:08 02/17/21) JD A 1951 - exhaust/intake manifold. Do any of the stud bolts go into the water jacket in the head or are they all a dead end hole? Secondy, what is the torque of the stud bolts? Third, should I use any gasket adhesive on the exhaust/intake manifold gasket? THANKS!
No, tapped holes do not go into water. If making the tractor historically correct, studs. If making it usable, eliminate studs and the clearance problems, use bolts. Light coat of copper cote on the gasket.
 
I picked up and installed a Heisler head and manifold a few years back on my 1936 A. One stud was broken off at the head and the manifold damaged. I was able to get all of the studs out in one pieces that weren't broken with enough heat. The broken one I had to weld a washer and nut to get it out (took more than one shot). The damage to the manifold was where the nut should have seated, I was able to get it in my mill and take it down to where it was flat. I put it back together with bolts rather than the stock studs, so length wasn't critical. It was also broken at the exhaust pipe mounting surface and I was able to build that back up and reshape it. It has held so far. If the gasket surfaces are in good shape other than where burned through, you may be able to build it up and buff it off in a similar way. The new fiber gaskets they sell seem to be pretty forgiving.
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