JD engine rebuild

[cowboy12]

Fortunate enough to get a second 4010 gas barn find. However, JD is totally new to me. Appears that it may need an engine rebuild. How do I obtain the correct information for the engine serial number that I have ? M21HA 224107R . Figuring on an in frame rebuild. Any suggestions as to a supplier?

 

[Swittig]

When I did a ring job on mine, I measured the bores and rod journals. Then worked with the shop that I took the head to to secure the parts. I would recommend this route again if you have a local option. I did the same when I did a major on my M that way the machine work matches the parts.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I think theres going to be a casting number on the side of the block I don’t think 4010 will have a fancy serial number tag yet that will appear with 40 series. You should be able to find the part numbers at jd parts and then use that number to find what you want anywhere. If you need sleeves I’ve had better luck with the John Deere ones being correct there’s going to be a bunch with different lengths with the same bore. rods and mains they have right here on yesterday’s tractor just see what you need with plastigage. Don’t be as scared of the sleeves as on a red one they are a wet sleeve easier to replace while you are in there it’s a good time to do it. Buy jd liner soap too it works good on all the rings. Buy a high quality head gasket also I had an aftermarket supplier tell me don’t bother with his head gasket. I have put them in for people who bought their own with copper coat and they have been fine but it was a warning nonetheless

 

[Jim.ME]

I think theres going to be a casting number on the side of the block I don’t think 4010 will have a fancy serial number tag yet that will appear with 40 series. You should be able to find the part numbers at jd parts and then use that number to find what you want anywhere. If you need sleeves I’ve had better luck with the John Deere ones being correct there’s going to be a bunch with different lengths with the same bore. rods and mains they have right here on yesterday’s tractor just see what you need with plastigage. Don’t be as scared of the sleeves as on a red one they are a wet sleeve easier to replace while you are in there it’s a good time to do it. Buy jd liner soap too it works good on all the rings. Buy a high quality head gasket also I had an aftermarket supplier tell me don’t bother with his head gasket. I have put them in for people who bought their own with copper coat and they have been fine but it was a warning nonetheless

The Operator's manual indicates the engine serial number would have been stamped into the flat pad, located below the generator mounting bracket.

 

[cowboy12]

Located above the distributor. Is this the numbers I'm looking for?

 

[Jim.ME]

View attachment 6705 Located above the distributor. Is this the numbers I'm looking for?

That should be the engine serial number tag. You may need to work with your dealer to get a breakdown of the tag. The 4010 operator's manual I can access only points out a stamped number in the pad below the generator. Have you checked the pad under the generator to see if anything is stamped there? Given the tag style, it is possible that is a later replacement block or engine which would not be shown in the Operator's Manual.

Do you have the correct Service manual for your 4010? JD shows two different ones. SM2042 has a 1961 publication date and SM2039 has a 1967 publication date.

 

[cowboy12]

That should be the engine serial number tag. You may need to work with your dealer to get a breakdown of the tag. The 4010 operator's manual I can access only points out a stamped number in the pad below the generator. Have you checked the pad under the generator to see if anything is stamped there? Given the tag style, it is possible that is a later replacement block or engine which would not be shown in the Operator's Manual.

Do you have the correct Service manual for your 4010? JD shows two different ones. SM2042 has a 1961 publication date and SM2039 has a 1967 publication date.

Thanks Jim.ME . New to this forum and JD. Still figuring out how to use the forum. Didn't mean to post a private message.

 

[cowboy12]

this is the front cover of the parts cat.

 

[cowboy12]

Dated May of 2011

 

[Jim.ME]

View attachment 6709this is the front cover of the parts cat.

The date changes when the publication is revised. The parts catalog you have will have some part number substitutions from the original part numbers. The electronic copy at JDParts.com may have even more substitutions.

Somewhere on the right side of the block there should be a cast (raised) block casting number. It looks like it may begin with a R and should have 5 digits after the letter. That is needed in some cases to get the right parts. I have seen that number stamped on the pad where the Operator's manual says the serial number should be. You may need to do some cleaning and paint scraping. I have also seen one where the raised casting number was ground off and a different casting number was stamped in the ground area.

 

[Tx Jim]

You can get pistons/liners from several locations including Yesterday's Tractors parts, JD, A&I. A couple of links for parts atre=httphttps://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts are following https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=John-Deere&&md=4010&cat=Engine Overhaul Kits&r=mcats https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/56114/referrer/navigation/pgId/102506

 

[Mark-Ia]

www.jdparts.com for a free online parts book.

 

[buickanddeere]

The gas 4010 and gas 4010 share the same stroke of 4.0” .

The 4010 gas bore is 4.0”. But…….the 4020 gas bore is 4.25” bore .

Hmmmmmm ???


Will 4020 gas pistons and sleeves fit in the 4010 block ?

You could also consider the LP pistons with a perky 9:0 to 1 compression ratio . Instead of the 7.5 to 1 ratio .


Odds are the cam and followers are worn . Including the gear drive to the oil pump . This maybe the time to consider regrinding the cam and followers ?

 

[cowboy12]

Tractor has been sitting for about 2 + years without running that is known. I put a wrench on the front crank bolt and was able to rotate the crank back and forth approximately 30 to 40 degrees , then it stopped. Not a hard stop and no clanking or grinding.
Was told that it could be a rust ring inside the cylinder. Was instructed to use break free lube or tranny oil and work back and forth.
If it moves further, keep at it. If it comes to a hard stop or grinding..... Rebuild.
All of this sounds logical, any other suggestions?

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

View attachment 6705 Located above the distributor. Is this the numbers I'm looking for?

Your tractor has a 105 combine engine in it.

 

[Jim.ME]

Your tractor has a 105 combine engine in it.

Thanks Tom, you got it. That would be a 362 power unit, correct? Looks like PC1135 is the parts catalog for that engine.