JD loose drive disc

[MichaelNiemann]

Looking at the clutch on my 1948 JD A. Washed everything off on the engine side and hand lubed the toggle bolts and roller bearing. Going back with the drive disc (item number 7 in my I&T manual) I've found that the retaining washer is not contacting the disc. There's ~0.070" clearance/play. Without purchasing a new crank and/or disc what other methods have been used to fix this problem??? Maybe an 0.080" thick sleeve that fits over the splines and would "transfer" the retaining washer grip to the disc?
Any input would be appreciated.

 

[greenmech]

Looking at the clutch on my 1948 JD A. Washed everything off on the engine side and hand lubed the toggle bolts and roller bearing. Going back with the drive disc (item number 7 in my I&T manual) I've found that the retaining washer is not contacting the disc. There's ~0.070" clearance/play. Without purchasing a new crank and/or disc what other methods have been used to fix this problem??? Maybe an 0.080" thick sleeve that fits over the splines and would "transfer" the retaining washer grip to the disc?
Any input would be appreciated.

If your disc is past the splines you may have trouble with the clutch spacing. Maybe an under size disc is available. Ron MN

 

[MichaelNiemann]

It's not past the splines, just further up on them by 0.070" before it gets tight.

 

[greenmech]

It's not past the splines, just further up on them by 0.070" before it gets tight.

That should be OK, the disc should be tight before the splines contact the washer. Maybe post on the John Deere forum farther down if this does't help. Ron MN ps are you saying the bolt is to long to tighten up?

 

[Mark-Ia]

A picture would help.

 

[MichaelNiemann]

The drive disc is on the splines too far for the washer to contact it.

 

[rustred]

Have u had that disc off the crank and checked for wear on the crank and disc? It was a problem on them for coming loose and wearing those splines out.

 

[wore out]

Have u had that disc off the crank and checked for wear on the crank and disc? It was a problem on them for coming loose and wearing those splines out.

The taperd splines ARE worn out, or the crank would be recessed in the driving disc, vs, protruding like it is.

 

[MichaelNiemann]

But since the spline shaft is tapered, I am thinking if I can secure it with enough pressure it'll work. This tractor won't get that many more hours on it once I get it running.
The disc doesn't "wiggle" any when you push it all the way on. I'll just have to check the retaining bolt for staying tight as I use it.
Don't really want to replace the crank if I can get around it.....

 

[John Deere D]

Looking at the clutch on my 1948 JD A. Washed everything off on the engine side and hand lubed the toggle bolts and roller bearing. Going back with the drive disc (item number 7 in my I&T manual) I've found that the retaining washer is not contacting the disc. There's ~0.070" clearance/play. Without purchasing a new crank and/or disc what other methods have been used to fix this problem??? Maybe an 0.080" thick sleeve that fits over the splines and would "transfer" the retaining washer grip to the disc?
Any input would be appreciated.

At some point in time,there was a gentleman (Machinist) who advertised in the "TWO-CYLINDER" Magazine out of Grundy Center IA that he was capable of a total repair on that exact crankshaft drive splines, "IF" the problem was the drive splines,as most likely both male and female splines are past there prime.

 

[greenmech]

The drive disc is on the splines too far for the washer to contact it.

View attachment 83639View attachment 83640

Your disc is on too far and may affect the clutch function. Your choices are shimming or new crank and disc. Ron MN

 

[MichaelNiemann]

I'll try shimming.

Thank you all for your input and advice.

 

[rustred]

I'll try shimming.

Thank you all for your input and advice.

And where do you
Plan on putting these shims???

 

[rustred]

The taperd splines ARE worn out, or the crank would be recessed in the driving disc, vs, protruding like it is.

Well ya.

 

[rustred]

You will need to cut a bunch of shim stock the same length as the outer hub. try .010 any lay it in the lower crank splines and do the same for the outer hub. Then slide the hub on and see where it’s sitting. That outer hub has to be about 1/8 “ out from the crank. Thinking if u used jb weld weld to hold them all in place, but don’t go crazy with the stuff. But first do only a few to find exactly what thickness u need for shim stock. .010 might be too thick. Once things are in order tighten that end hold down bolt with an impact. I have seen them splines worn right out and hammering like a broken crank. Cause if your thinking to just fill that space behind the bolt with round shims that’s not the answer.

 

[Mark-Ia]

At some point in time,there was a gentleman (Machinist) who advertised in the "TWO-CYLINDER" Magazine out of Grundy Center IA that he was capable of a total repair on that exact crankshaft drive splines, "IF" the problem was the drive splines,as most likely both male and female splines are past there prime.

That was Mike Williams. He is no longer doing that as age has caught up with him.

 

[Mark-Ia]

Someone was casting undersized clutch hubs, don't remember who sold them though. Maybe Detwiler's.

 

[John Deere D]

That was Mike Williams. He is no longer doing that as age has caught up with him.

Thank you Sir..

 

[Loosehandle]

Looking at the clutch on my 1948 JD A. Washed everything off on the engine side and hand lubed the toggle bolts and roller bearing. Going back with the drive disc (item number 7 in my I&T manual) I've found that the retaining washer is not contacting the disc. There's ~0.070" clearance/play. Without purchasing a new crank and/or disc what other methods have been used to fix this problem??? Maybe an 0.080" thick sleeve that fits over the splines and would "transfer" the retaining washer grip to the disc?
Any input would be appreciated.

Even a fresh standard disc might help a lot but it sounds like the budget is zero.

 

[rustred]

the end result needs to look like this.