JD tie rod end

Bob Bancroft

Well-known Member
Location
Aurora NY
I'm getting too old. I thought ball joints/tie rod ends came with a new castle nut. So as part of disassembly I took the castle nut off, turned it over, and screwed it back on flush, and gave it a couple of whacks.
Well, AR63590 @ $38.43 comes with no nut! No problem. If I want to save a nut I run a tap in from the good side. Ever try to start a tap into the castle side of a nut?
 
You got off easy for 38 dollars. Just ask some poor sap with a late model backhoe. The ball joint is forged as part of the cylinder rod.
 
Well I suppose it depends if you have more time than money. New castle nut from local fastener supply--$5.00. Ten minutes trying to start tap--??
 
Call agco 80$ For loader seals. 2 weeks to get here and 20$ freight John Deere calls that a stock order no freight
 
You can put anything on a stock order at any dealer if you requested it. It also matters whether or not it is a special order or normally carried in stock. Free shipping not exclusive to John Deere.
 
A friend who worked on race cars told me the way to take those off was to tap on the part they go into. Have done it several times and seems to work and you don't destroy the ball joint or the rubber shroud around it
 
Correct. In this case a long bar applying pressure while pounding the daylights out of the steering arm! The taps on the threaded end were more out of frustration than anything.
 
I will say the parts I see seem to be a bit cheaper for the Deere equipment than for the Fiat or Agco equipment or at least it seems like that. Not all that long ago it seemed like it was the other way around. They all get theirs somewhere along the line though no matter the color.
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:48 04/07/22) Correct. In this case a long bar applying pressure while pounding the daylights out of the steering arm! The taps on the threaded end were more out of frustration than anything.

Toss the pry bar aside.

"Buck" a BIG hammer against the side of the arm (obviously where the stud passes through), give a couple of smart SMACKS 180 across with a MEDIUM-sized hammer, swap the positions of the hammers and repeat.

Most of the time it will be loose by then, NO need to "pound the daylights out of the steering arm".
 
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