JDE 69 Injector Wrench

[4020_guy]

I would like to remove the Robert Bosch injectors from my 7520 JD tractor. They have the 12 point nuts at the bottom of the injector to push
them out or pull them in. I have used a box end wrench on my 4230 as the injector was round after removing the leak off pipe. Only thing with
these ones, the injector is Y shaped at the top so a boxed end wrench won't go over the top. Manual said to use a JDE 69 wrench to remove.
Would these still be available or could one just cut a piece from a box end wrench? I'm thinking there may be a sticking injector as there is
kind of fluttering on acceleration and fire balls up the pipe on de-acceleration. I had a leaking injector line that I replaced and it started
shortly after that. I cleaned the injector and pump area with brake clean and air about 5 times and removed the alternator and all the lines
and stuff. The new line was in a sealed plastic bag and had plastic plugs screwed in the ends. With all the stuff removed it was a easy fit
for the line. Didn't have to twist and rotate and rotate and twist again to install. Thought it might be the turbo but I think it is ok. Any
other thoughts. Thanks for now.......Ron

 

[Dieseltech]

The late straight Bosch injectors use a different twelve point tool than the early Bosch Y type injector. The early twelve point nut is smaller.

 

[used red MN]

Nothing $80 will not fix, see link. Another one from Freedom Racing had bold letters ..In Stock.. I would probably try the hacked up wrench first. The configuration of the tool allows you to torque the injector. With the cut wrench you have to rely on your calibrated elbow.
One choice

 

[matthies]

Ebay $48.

 

[matthies]

Have you loosened the lines while running to at least narrow it down to one injector/cylinder. Have you checked valve clearances? If you have the valve cover off, see if the rubber plugs are against the cotter pins on the ends of the rockershaft. I have seen the back one move in and dump the oil out of the end and without lube, valves can stick and cause a flutter.

 

[4020_guy]

Yes I looked it up and going to order one plus a shirt with lots of pockets. JD manual says 35 ft lbs torque and never-seize. Wonder if that happened last time they were removed. Probably 135 ft lbs now. Hope that is all that is the problem. Thank you for the replies.....Ron

 

[4020_guy]

matthies just read your posts. Have not done anything yet. Engine was done before I got it 23 years ago. I use it 100 to 150 hours a year and it is one of the best starting and running tractors I have. I was kind of figure out what it may be. As for injector sticking I use lots of 2 cycle oil like a litre per 50 to 75 gallons of fuel. I cracked the injector I changed the line on and it did make a miss after I used for 2 or 3 hours. Then it seemed to get worse with the flutter and fire balls up the pipe. It never was over heated or lugged down. It's not good to corner a 47 year old tractor with 9200 real hours on it. Throw it down a gear and they seem to last a lot better. I've heard of the rocker arm plugs before on a AC 301. Thank you for your time and reply.......Ron