Jmore

[Taz n va]

You gave a detailed description about setting timing on 8n sidemout that I have managed to lose. I just need the "after timing" part, about setting @ (I think) 400, 700, & 2000 RPM. Would you be kind enough to repeat that part. Thanks ,Taz

 

[JMOR]

If you are addressing me, I am afraid I don't remember the post. You would normally set only static advance and the advance at all different RPMs will simply follow the curve set by the weights & springs in the centrifugal mechanism. With a timing light and tachometer, you can verify that curve against the distributor advance specifications, but not set it without changing springs &/ or weights. When centrifugal advance isn't proper due to mfgr error or wear, rust, etc., I have set the max RPM advance and let slower advance fall where it may, as when I'm working the tractor, it is almost always at max governed speed.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Maybe this?

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms
to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't
adjust the distributor to fix that.
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