John Deere 1010 Ignition Wiring

John Deere 1010 gas, converted to 12v negative ground with Pertronix electronic ignition distributor. Been fighting a lot of issues with this one...has new Brillman wiring harness. Current issue is hard to start.

- Key on, 12v at coil
- Cranking, low voltage at coil and no spark
- Let off key and back to run position, 12v back at coil with spark and tractor starts.

Jumper from battery 12v to coil and tractor starts instantly.

Don't feel like I want 12v straight to the coil all the time though ...is there a different post on the key switch we should have to coil wire going to? Or is there a jumper wire scenario I can leave permanently?

Thanks!
 
The original ignition switch had a resistor built on the switch, so they actually used a 6-volt coil for the 12-volt system. If you are using a true12-volt coil (no external resistor required) and the ignition switch still has the resistor on it, the voltage at the coil may be too low. The jumper wire has no resistor so would deliver the needed voltage to a true 12-volt coil.
 
The original ignition switch had a resistor built on the switch, so they actually used a 6-volt coil for the 12-volt system. If you are using a true12-volt coil (no external resistor required) and the ignition switch still has the resistor on it, the voltage at the coil may be too low. The jumper wire has no resistor so would deliver the needed voltage to a true 12-volt coil

Yes I think that is my issue. So I just need to find a separate switched 12v post off the key switch to run the jumper wire from? For the testing I just had it straight to the battery.
 
Yes I think that is my issue. So I just need to find a separate switched 12v post off the key switch to run the jumper wire from? For the testing I just had it straight to the battery.
If your switch has an unused spade on the back marked F, check it with a voltmeter to see if it has 12 volts and turns on and off with the key. I don't remember if that is correct or not, so check it, don't just hook to it. That might be one the one you could use,
 
If your switch has an unused spade on the back marked F, check it with a voltmeter to see if it has 12 volts and turns on and off with the key. I don't remember if that is correct or not, so check it, don't just hook to it. That might be one the one you could use,
We can look at that. My other thought is to run the current coil wire through a relay...I feel like I've seen guys doing that before on the larger 10 series tractors that have the same issue.
 
We can look at that. My other thought is to run the current coil wire through a relay...I feel like I've seen guys doing that before on the larger 10 series tractors that have the same issue.
It would work as long as the relay will pull in with the lower voltage caused by the resistor in the ignition circuit.
 
It would work as long as the relay will pull in with the lower voltage caused by the resistor in the ignition circuit.
A resistor-less key switch if there isn’t a post might be the simplest fix, that or swapping the coil back to 6v I assume the brillman kit came with a 12v stinger coil? Would be nice to be able to install it I’d probably change the switch that way everything is on 12 and it’s easy for me to remember.

I converted a 3010 to EI and it does work with that old style 6v coil there isn’t anything wrong with that way either
 
A resistor-less key switch if there isn’t a post might be the simplest fix, that or swapping the coil back to 6v I assume the brillman kit came with a 12v stinger coil? Would be nice to be able to install it I’d probably change the switch that way everything is on 12 and it’s easy for me to remember.

I converted a 3010 to EI and it does work with that old style 6v coil there isn’t anything wrong with that way either
I don’t know about the farm tractor, but the crawler was later updated with a separate resistor mounted on the gas tank support. If you got one of those switches, you could run it without the resistor.
 
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