John Deere 1010 RU Early 60's. Serial number is not legible.
Okay.
So, Have gone through 2 regulators in the past...7 months.
The one that was on the tractor when bought 2 years ago and one that was purchased about 6 weeks ago.
Original owner keeled over on his lawn mower, (Postal delivery people must have some stories...) and we bought this from his brother.
The Tractor had been changed to Negative ground and after the second regulator I started suspecting that maybe the wiring was incorrect.
The regulator actually was just bad, I think? Oreilly's-China Special.
It was very intermittent. It would work for a couple hours and then the GEN Light would come on. The higher the RPM's...the brighter it illuminated.
I first thought it wasn't getting a good ground, so, dedicated ground wire back to the battery...and this seemed to work for about an hour.
Headed back to the barn and the regulator was HOT. I returned a few hours later to check things out. Turned the key and nothing.
The 92% of the wiring had melted including the solenoid on the starter.
The only thing I could actually find wrong with the wiring connections was the coil was wired backwards. Still connected for positive ground.
The regulator was manufactured for Positive or Negative ground...I don't know if the original was...the regulator on the tractor when we purchased it
I didn't realize the starter was toast until after the current regulator was installed.
So, hopefully that brings things up to now.
With great care and attention I rewired the tractor to the best of my knowledge and the Internets...and the John Deere Service manual...and the internet...
The schematic shown here is the current wiring.
No fuel gauge and use a oil pressure gauge. No stock light switch...no stock lights...LED's and they work great.
I installed the new starter this afternoon and turned it over with the response that it wanted to run...let go of the key and...it stops.
Again and again and sprayed some contact cleaner in the ignition switch...again and still, wants to go and...stops.
Reset my brain, got the fine toothed pick out and...it's all correct. But is it?
Obviously not.
I have here on my desk the ignition switch.
Using a quality multi-meter, (Fluke 87 V) I constructed a truth table.
And this does not make sense. If you look at the schematic and the truth table it makes sense why the tractor won't run after the turning over step.
My solution is to move #9 (pink) wire to the "F" terminal on the switch, despite what the schematic says.
Oh, and there appears to be a diode connected to the "S" termial, (anode side) to the switch's case. (cathode side)
Diode check is fluctuating every where even with the Auto HOLD depressed.
And that's where I am at! Any one care to suggest...?
Okay.
So, Have gone through 2 regulators in the past...7 months.
The one that was on the tractor when bought 2 years ago and one that was purchased about 6 weeks ago.
Original owner keeled over on his lawn mower, (Postal delivery people must have some stories...) and we bought this from his brother.
The Tractor had been changed to Negative ground and after the second regulator I started suspecting that maybe the wiring was incorrect.
The regulator actually was just bad, I think? Oreilly's-China Special.
It was very intermittent. It would work for a couple hours and then the GEN Light would come on. The higher the RPM's...the brighter it illuminated.
I first thought it wasn't getting a good ground, so, dedicated ground wire back to the battery...and this seemed to work for about an hour.
Headed back to the barn and the regulator was HOT. I returned a few hours later to check things out. Turned the key and nothing.
The 92% of the wiring had melted including the solenoid on the starter.
The only thing I could actually find wrong with the wiring connections was the coil was wired backwards. Still connected for positive ground.
The regulator was manufactured for Positive or Negative ground...I don't know if the original was...the regulator on the tractor when we purchased it
I didn't realize the starter was toast until after the current regulator was installed.
So, hopefully that brings things up to now.
With great care and attention I rewired the tractor to the best of my knowledge and the Internets...and the John Deere Service manual...and the internet...
The schematic shown here is the current wiring.
No fuel gauge and use a oil pressure gauge. No stock light switch...no stock lights...LED's and they work great.
I installed the new starter this afternoon and turned it over with the response that it wanted to run...let go of the key and...it stops.
Again and again and sprayed some contact cleaner in the ignition switch...again and still, wants to go and...stops.
Reset my brain, got the fine toothed pick out and...it's all correct. But is it?
Obviously not.
I have here on my desk the ignition switch.
Using a quality multi-meter, (Fluke 87 V) I constructed a truth table.
And this does not make sense. If you look at the schematic and the truth table it makes sense why the tractor won't run after the turning over step.
My solution is to move #9 (pink) wire to the "F" terminal on the switch, despite what the schematic says.
Oh, and there appears to be a diode connected to the "S" termial, (anode side) to the switch's case. (cathode side)
Diode check is fluctuating every where even with the Auto HOLD depressed.
And that's where I am at! Any one care to suggest...?
