John Deere 14T vs 24T

[TDJD]

First off I want to thank everyone who replied to my hauling question.
Now, when I went to look at the baler I found out that it?s a 14T, not a 24T. What are the pros and cons of a 14T or 24T? What should I look for to make sure it?s a good baler? The guy is asking $1,600.

 

[Bob]

"What should I look for to make sure it?s a good baler?"

Ideally, watch it knock out a hundred bales, and count the "misses".

$1600 is a LOT of money for a 14T baler, if low bale count and in excellant shape it mite be worth it, one thing for sure the NICE paint job ain't gonna make it any better as a working baler.

 

[r.w.b.]

Seen 1 barn kept,oiled down nice paint very little wear showing bring $500 at auction.a neighbor bidded it up 200 just to keep it away from cutters torch.
Remember it came out in mid 50s too.
Dad bought 1 of the last side discharge pre 14t balers.we baled neighbors hay several times while his 14t was broke

 

[coshoo]

WAY too much money for that baler- very old, low capacity, and a Dupont overhaul doesn't change that. Keep looking.

 

[Tony in SD]

My Dad said long ago and is still true in a lot of cases; ?Beware of new paint?. Some times pretty things are only skin deep. If it was me I?d like to see that pretty paint work before buying the bailer. Sorry I couldn?t help you with your actual question.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

As others have said way too much $$$ for that baler.I bought an original in very good condition Oliver 62T baler a couple years ago at an auction for $200 it makes about
the most uniform bale of any baler I have ever used,but like that 14T its not a baler you can crowd and put out much production.

 

[RLA]

1st off it's too much money, also it's a very early 14T. I've baled 100's of bales with one ours was a trouble
free baler. The key to a 14T is not putting a big horse on the hitch. A 30 hp. tractor will put more hay into
one than it wants. Also run it at near pto speed. I sold mine for 500.00 after it had baled 8500 to 9500 bales
per year bought it new I think in 1962. The people who bought had it trashed in one summer.

 

[NY 986]

Mint condition 14T's and 24T's were selling at auction for 750-1,100 dollars. The time and materials to paint that baler have an absolute value. Go from there to make a decision.

 

[Mike M]

For me that new paint would turn me off of it right away ! I'd rather see one in it's natural state that was always sheded and had fresh hay or straw in it where it just baled and you could try it out before spending more than scrap price. If at scrap price I'd take my chances and not be out any if I had to scrap it.

 

[Naylorbros]

I have a 224WS that I would be very happy to sell for half that.

 

[dhermesc]

Where are these mint condition 50 year old balers coming from?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:58:02 06/27/19) Where are these mint condition 50 year old balers coming from?

rom a paint can....and that price is one to not walk , but run from!

 

[ztrmowers]

no way last one those I bought years ago for backup was 50.00 bucks. depend on how much you bale or not I would never go back to that unit get you a 327 unit or similar and go from there, that price range you should be able to get a much newer unit. I gave 2000 for my 327 back in the day

 

[NY 986]

A couple were estate sales. Guys might let a lot of things set outside around here but a number took real good care of their planter, grain drill, and baler by putting them inside. It's really not that hard to find high quality older balers even today.

 

[NY 986]

The price has moved down some from just a few years ago but a high quality 327 around here would not sell for 2,000 dollars for quite a long time. Too many Mennonite dairy famers in the area for that to happen.

 

[SVcummins]

Ask Him what work has been done besides paint ? New bearings new chains new tires or anything else when did it run last . Everyone is always quick to tell you how bad of a deal it is but they don?t know anything about the actual machine in question sure you can buy an auction pos for nothing I?d rather spend more on something In good shape If i could . So I?d ask questions 60 year old equipment is rarely mint condition even if it only bales 200 or 300 bales a year that still a lot of bales . So it might be a good deal it might not newer does not mean a machine is better than an older one especially if the newer ones wore or beat to death and never maintained . There?s a lot more to look at when buying equipment than price and age

 

[dhermesc]

If he can demonstrate that it works a 14T brings $800+ every day of the week in NE Kansas - before the paint and other work he may or may not have done. I sold one that I guaranteed not to work for $450 to a guy that wanted it for parts. Old WORKING John Deere and New Holland balers start around $1000 and go up from there for the most part. A good well cared for NH 276 goes between $3000 and $5000. John Deere models that start with a 3 usually between $3000 and $6000 unless obviously abused.


https://lawrence.craigslist.org/grd/d/eudora-john-deere-t24-square-hay-baler/6921161964.html


https://stjoseph.craigslist.org/grd/d/grand-junction-john-deere-24-baler/6896393699.html


https://kansascity.craigslist.org/grq/d/severy-336-john-deere-square-baler/6921039795.html


https://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/d/lawson-new-holland-66-square-baler/6891550068.html

 

[flying belgian]

First question to ask him. Where is the pto. shield?

 

[showcrop]

Good advice from everyone. If you are intent on considering it here are some things to check. Check tightness of the connecting rod bearing check to see that the plunger-head runs smoothly and easily back and forth. They tend to rust underneath the rails, so with the plunger head all the way forward inspect the floor. Check that the plunger head sits nice and square. Check the blades. for that price it needs to have very nice ones. Put the moving and stationary blades together and check for clearance. 3/32-1/8 all the way top to bottom. Check for rust damage under the knotters. If the metal is too thin it won't tie a heavy bale. check that the tucker fingers move freely. Check the twine discs and bill hooks for any grooving from wear. Check the bearings at the ends of the pick-up bars for for looseness. Check the pick-up drive chain for stretch.

 

[Kerwin]

I think $1600 is high for a 14T, but my view is based on my locale and local prices, just like everyone else's response. I'm in Wisconsin where a lot of these balers were bought new and have been plentiful. If you are in an area that didn't have farms that used small squares in the past, then small square balers are a rarity and the price is higher. A lot of the small square balers around here when sold at the big machinery auctions are headed for areas such as that where the resale value is high. "Horse people or Mexico" is the usual location mentioned, whether that's true or not.

I wouldn't let new paint be a problem, just depends on whether it was a spray bomb job or if someone took things apart and painted before reassembly. My 24T has new paint in places where I had parts and panels off for replacement.

Only thing that I know of 14T is from looking at parts and what fits between balers, the 24T seems to have more in common with the later balers such as the 336 and others, more than a 14T, which opens up the chance to get replacement parts if needed.

 

[dhermesc]

There were a LOT of small square balers in NE Kansas but the last of the new ones were sold in the late 1970s - after that anyone with a sizable acreage went to round bales. The hobby guys like me keep using old worn out units that are now 40 years old at best. I was talking to "the baler guy" at a Case/New Holland dealership on Monday - with 17 locations they sell one or two new square balers a year - I was actually kind of surprised it was that many.


Good used working balers are rare in my area. Old ones that wouldn't tie if their life depended on it are sitting in barns everywhere - they just need a little adjustment to get them to work - along with several hundred dollars worth of parts and someone that knows how to make it all work when its put back together.