John Deere 2020 Load Shaft

[deeretails]

I need to install the load shaft in the lower rear of the transmission. The tractor came without this shaft, just the bushings in place. I have a manual and it indicates that the top cover with the rockshaft housing needs to come off to disconnect a spring and slide a shaft out of the way. I watched numerous YouTube videos on similar tractors and the top cover has not been removed. They just carefully slid the loadshaft into place. What is the recommendation from someone who has done this on a 2020? If it matters the tractor was built in Germany in 1966.

Thanks in advance,

Mark

 

[Tx Jim]

Your tractor should have a lever under seat if that's correct place that lever in "D" then L/D shaft should slide into place without disconnecting anything. Lubricate shaft with hyd oil before attempting to install in trans case. When installing draft arms to shaft install sufficient shim washer to eliminate any side to side movement of L/D control shaft

 

[Mark-Ia]

Boling Machine make better bushings and seals for the load shaft.

 

[Tx Jim]

Boling Machine make better bushings and seals for the load shaft.

Please explain what you think is better about Boling Mach bushings/seals for JD utility tractors than JD bushings/seals!! I agree Boling Mach bushing/seals for JD 10 & 20 series rowcrop tractors are much better than original JD 10 & 20 rowcrop tractor L/D seals!!!

 

[deeretails]

Thanks Jim, went together perfectly!

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanks Jim, went together perfectly!

You're welcome. Did you add shim washers between trans case & draft arms if required to keep L/D shaft from moving side to side in seals?

 

[deeretails]

I haven't gotten to that yet, yesterday was satisfied just to get the shaft in. I've other projects going on.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Please explain what you think is better about Boling Mach bushings/seals for JD utility tractors than JD bushings/seals!! I agree Boling Mach bushing/seals for JD 10 & 20 series rowcrop tractors are much better than original JD 10 & 20 rowcrop tractor L/D seals!!!

I am interested in what the argument is against the Boling ones in a utility as we have a lot of row crop tractors around and I’ve helped people with half a dozen this year alone. We have fewer utilities wander in and I’ve kinda been glad so far but would be interested in that tidbit of info as they appear to sell one for a 2030 same one piece drive in bushing seal combo although you probably still need the outer longer bushing based on the parts diagram that isn’t there on a row crop?

I’ve suggested them to about everyone who has that leak and am thinking I need to invest in an actual seal driver that size and I have both 3010 4010 seals sitting here to measure with a short handle that just fits my hand. They are spendy and I think I’ve done enough to justify the tool. I’ve just been freezing them overnight and beating them in with a piece of flat stock but sometimes that isn’t perfect and I usually use 3 of them so I’ve just ordered double as they are a nice tight fit and if they crack I have to try again. They are less fun to remove I will concede that. But the ones that have been put in the guys with the little 3 point planter and sprayer have had no complaints so far figured that would be a good test.

 

[Tx Jim]

I didn't state anything was wrong with Bolings bushings vs JD bushings. I asked what made Bolings L/D shaft bushing for ""JD utility tractors any better than JD L/D shaft bushings for JD utility tractors"" manufactured in Dubuque & Mannheim factories. JD utility tractor original L/D shaft bushings have groove machined in them for o-ring & washer very similar to Bolings L/D shaft bushings. You mentioned 3010/4010 bushings & Bolings bushings/seal are far superior to factory 3010/3020/4010/4020 original style L/D bushings with no groove for o-ring & washers & seal was installed outside of bushings.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Well they are made of a lot harder seal material than the John Deere ones enough so that you wouldn’t think it would seal well but it does. And they have the outside metal surface that John Deere ones do not. No specific direction required just pound them in and go. So while it says shimming is still required it’s not quite as big a deal.

what I’m saying is it looks like there’s another bushing on the outside on the 2020 an extra spacer so is that going to push on the new seal? Like I said I have cracked them so that was what my concern was

As far as the bushings inside and the shaft I doubt there is that much difference between the two my comment was mostly on the external seals that come encased in a metal “bushing” I think the comment above by mark ia might have meant shaft and internal bushing also but I don’t swap those out if I can help it usually that outside seal fixes a lot of the trouble that’s why I like them.

Either way those seals are installed outside the main bushings or am I missing something else yet too? Like I’ve said those nice drive in ones have fixed a lot of stuff for me that I haven’t had to touch again knock on wood

 

[Tx Jim]

Shown below is a 2020 L/D bushing item 5 fits in groove then item 4 fits inside item 5 with both inside the groove. I dislike the factory style metal encased seals that 10 & 20 series rowcrop tractor use shown in 2nd photo that were designed to fit on outside of bushing in trans case.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

 

[Fixingfarmer]

4020 is on the right 3020 on the left these are what Bolings seals are to replace the one you dislike they aren’t the same type but that’s the idea it’s a bad spot for that kind of seal. Identical on the flip side

 

[Tx Jim]

Thank you for photo & I agree those Bolings type seals are far superior to JD factory 10 & 20 series rowcrop tractors. I agree L/D seals in bottom of oil reservoir isn't the best idea BUT when JD L/D mechanism & associated linkage was adjusted correctly the load sensing operated very good to maintain nearly a constant load on tractor engine. When new seals were installed correctly they normally lasted many hrs of use is what I experienced during my 21 yrs of employment at JD dealership. My JD 4255 has only had the L/D seals replaced twice in nearly 12,000 hrs of use.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

And I’m sure you are correct on all accounts but is the neighborhood hayring going to correctly shim the linkage after its been worn in? Or want to replace the shaft itself? These they have a bit better shot at not needing to be perfect on either of those although shimming is said in the instructions must be done like the Deere’s. There’s a 1/4 inch sealing surface with that flat ring instead of the lip which is also better than a round oring although that’s getting closer. I’m not going to say it’s going to last much longer than the Deere’s it just helps a couple of the other issues associated with it.

So the 2640 I did a couple years ago would have had that o-ring style and it would have been replaced with the same thing as the 3020 one I believe but I’ve only done 1 and I don’t remember it looking like the 2020 with that round spacer on the outside that’s the part I don’t like because it looks to me like it would sit right on the part I crack if I’m over enthusiastic installing. I don’t remember pulling the o-ring retaining part out on the 2640 and how bad that was it must not have been anything serious. I don’t remember going to John Deere when it didn’t work either. You are also correct that I’m not doing them every 10 minutes like 4020 3020. I always figured it was more that people didn’t hang an 8 row cultivator off a utility usually.