John Deere 2555 Transmission Grind

[BretSteed]

Just bought a 2555 with the collar shift transmission. When I purchased the tractor, the transmission would grind between every gear and every range. Once in gear and range, and clutch still depressed, it would shift perfectly to any position. However, when clutch pedal was let off, it would start the grinding process back over again. When put into gear and range, the tractor would jump forward and or backward just the slightest. When going up through the gears, it scratches more than I am accustomed to with other John Deeres. If clutch pedal is held down for maybe 5 seconds, it seems that everything internally slows down enough to shift smoothly. If at higher RPM, nothing is going to shift unless forced into gear. We have two 2640s, a 2630 and a 2030. I have drove and owned countless 30 and 40 series Deeres in the utility category and know them in and out. We have put countless clutches in them over the years. Clutch free travel is set correctly. I ended up splitting the tractor and putting in a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing. Still same results. Although I have a ton of experience with 30 and 40 series, I have not been on many 55 series. With the collar shift transmission, is this just the norm?

 

[buickanddeere]

If it isn't TSS , they want to grind . Shifting at low engine rpm does assist. Can't recall which way is which . However if both shifters are placed in neutral. The right shifter is moved first and the left shifter is moved second.

 

[BretSteed]

If it isn't TSS , they want to grind . Shifting at low engine rpm does assist. Can't recall which way is which . However if both shifters are placed in neutral. The right shifter is moved first and the left shifter is moved second.

Right stick is the gear selection and the left is the range/reverse selection. Starting with both in neutral, the right stick is smooth with no grind. Left stick then grinds. Starting with both in neutral, the left stick will grind and then the right stick will grind.

 

[centash]

Right stick is the gear selection and the left is the range/reverse selection. Starting with both in neutral, the right stick is smooth with no grind. Left stick then grinds. Starting with both in neutral, the left stick will grind and then the right stick will grind.

If there is oil getting on the clutch facing, , it could cause it to drag on the pressure plate or flywheel. Rear engine seal or trans input shaft seal. Doesn't take much to make it drag. A long shot, but maybe....

Ben

 

[buickanddeere]

Right stick is the gear selection and the left is the range/reverse selection. Starting with both in neutral, the right stick is smooth with no grind. Left stick then grinds. Starting with both in neutral, the left stick will grind and then the right stick will grind.

Right stick. Wait 10 seconds , then try the left stick .

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree with b&d in that conventional 4 speed with high/low wasn't designed to have gears shifted while tractor is moving. That is why Top Shaft Synchronizer trans was introduced so trans could be shifted in some gears while tractor is moving.

 

[BretSteed]

I agree with b&d in that conventional 4 speed with high/low wasn't designed to have gears shifted while tractor is moving. That is why Top Shaft Synchronizer trans was introduced so trans could be shifted in some gears while tractor is moving.

I assumed that the 2555 collar shift trans was the same as the older 30 and 40 series that I mentioned? Never had this issue with the older tractors.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

My 2555 buzzes a bit from time to time certainly isn’t consistently that way.

mine does have lh reverser instead of 2 speed. 25 years it’s done it. One thing you can try is push the 2 stage clutch all the way in like you are going to actuate the pto.

It isn’t a whole lot different than the 30 and 40 series utilities except the Germans were smart enough to move to a independent external park brake lever on the left side and seal the top a bit better to keep stuff out.

You could have a 2 speed problem they do like to cause some issues I had one on a 2640 where the bushing came out of the case and the shaft was then loose and would shift noisily like how you describe or just have some worn shift collars if it’s horrendously bad it’s difficult to judge how bad it is without being there. Either way if you have done the front split with no improvement and it is very concerning it’s time to consider the rear split and take a look at the other side of the clutch housing and trans. Most often I’ve done it with a cherry picker split like you just did to do the clutch then pull the clutch housing off the transmission.

 

[Tx Jim]

Due to your tractor having collar shift trans it's possible friction plug is worn not slowing rotating gear fast enough to limit gear grinding or traction clutch isn't releasing correctly. JD utility tractors as far back as model 1020 utilized the same friction plug

 

[JIM MN]

You say it is a collar shift! SO! it will grind a little to shift gears Tractor can not be moving to shift gears quietly. Make sure the clutch is adjusted correct? Your tractors transmission has no scynchronizers.

 

[BretSteed]

Tractor has single stage clutch with independent PTO. Also, all of the 30 and 40 series that I have are collar shift and do not shift this hard.

 

[BretSteed]

Video of tractor issue.

 

[Jim.ME]

This is a mechanical clutch, not the hydraulic one, correct?

You say the clutch is adjusted properly and I do not doubt you. I would like to hear what the actual free play pedal travel you have is.

Can you see enough through the inspection hole to see what the actual clearance between the throw out bearing and fingers is?

When you installed the new clutch did you check finger height or at least check to see that they were withing .010" of each other? Other may disagree with the need but after encountering a couple that were out of spec, I choose to check them now.

Edited to correct spelling.

 

[Tx Jim]

My vote is clutch disk isn't fully releasing or pilot brg is faulty. Spline on trans input shaft & inside spline on clutch hub may be hanging.

 

[BretSteed]

The clutch is mechanical, but it is a diaphragm clutch so there isn’t really any adjustment. The free travel is at 1 inch. I have tried less and more, but really no change.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Good video no 2 speed either. It very well could be pilot bearing but if you just put a new one in it still could be time to go into the back side after that clutch shaft it should have a bushing but it’s hard telling and should be carefully usable till you can’t stand it or get another opportunity since you have a workaround.

That’s not too much different than how mine behaves maybe a bit more jumpy and slightly louder.

Mine sporadicly will behave similarly I usually push down all the way like engaging pto and then let out a bit it will pop in. But mine has the pto down on the left by your foot and the 2 stage clutch must have left foot down all the way to shift it appears your pto is up top on the steering column and it may or may not be a 2 stage?

Since it moves a bit when you engage it something is dragging.
Was Flywheel surfaced when it was out? We do usually do that and pop a rear main in when split. Shouldn’t be the problem here but could be I guess

 

[JD Dave]

It should NOT behave like your video. For whatever reason, the clutch is not releasing. Could be the pilot bearing, finger adjustment, bent clutch disk, misalignment of the throwout bearing or faulty pressure plate. I would not run the tractor that way or you will damage something else.