John Deere 3010

[cwegscheid]

A good friend of mine lost both her parents in the last few months, and she's trying to figure out what to do with her dad's old 3010. From what I can tell, it a diesel, built in 1962, with what I believe is an aftermarket cab. The meter shows 474 hours, which I suspect has rolled over. The tractor does not run -- or, at least, she hasn't been able to get it started. She recalls her dad mentioning some small mechanical issue before he passed, maybe the starter motor.

I have very little experience with tractors, but I'd like to help my friend. Does anyone have any advice on where or how a tractor of this vintage and condition might be sold for a fair price? Or can anyone give me a sense of the value? Looking at some listings online, it looks like similar tractors are listed in the neighborhood of $4,000-$6,000; I'm not sure how the cab affects the value, if it all.

Thanks very much for your time.

This post was edited by cwegscheid on 03/27/2022 at 09:17 pm.

 

[M-MAN]

Not running knocks off half the value
right off the bat. I would suggest
posting the general area and maybe one of
our members is close enough or knows
someone who is and they can help her get
it going first.

 

[DR. EVIL]

THAT doesn't look bad at all for a 60 year old tractor. With a nice Shiney new tank type engine block heater
on the left side of the engine, leads me to think it's a hard to start engine. That shelf right there must
be the new battery box, I see a battery cable hanging loose. Think it's going to take a little work to get it
started.
Dad had a '63 4010 diesel the last couple years he farmed. It's Starting Aid was a FARMALL M and a stout
log chain. Tried using the Super H to pull the 4010 a couple times, ground had to be dry, the dry road worked
best.
The cab looks like a YEAR-a-Round cab, pretty popular in the 1960's, and it's in nice shape, just dusty,
same with tractor. Hour meter does look like it's on the second time around, that's 10,474 hours, lots of run
time that would show on clutch & brake pedals, paint wore off throttle lever and gearshift, even pto and
hydraulic levers, and I don't see any of that paint wear. The seat looks funny, like it's covered with carpet,
or the vinyl was stripped off. If 474 hours turns out to be correct the value is much greater. The rear tires
look like 474 hours worth of wear.
Somebody familiar with new generation Deere's needs to install batteries, plug the block heater in for an
hour, maybe give it a sniff of ether, and crank it over, it probably will start. Then the clean-up can begin.

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to YT
You're correct your friends 3010 is a 1962 model. Location of tractor affects value.

My guess is injection pump is the no start problem. Newer ULSD fuel can cause metering valve in IP to stick.

Cab without air conditioning similar to this cab tends to lower value BUT at least the factory fenders are present if one desired to remove the cab. Front weights add value plus rear tires look decent so I'll guess $2500-$2750 if engine crankshaft will rotate but not running.

Cab doesn't resemble any Year-A-Round I've been acquainted with. It might be a Crenlo but I don't remember JD factory cabs being offered on new 3010/4010's

This post was edited by Tx Jim on 03/28/2022 at 04:13 am.

 

[8850dave]

Clean tractor for its age and sure helps having the 12 volt conversion done to it, but until someone determines what is wrong with it any price
could be too much or too little.

 

[Dieseltech]

If it has not run for awhile problem could be injection pump has stuck internal parts, plungers and valves are common. The pump has been off at least once as the photo
shows pump housing has the speed advance built in update which original 3010/4010 did not come with new.

 

[coonie minnie]

Looks like a nice straight tractor. However, that isn't the original hour meter, it's what Deere has stocked as a replacement for the past 20 years. So who knows on hours. After 0 years though, it's sort of
irrrelevant, condition is what matters.

Have someone who knows Deeres try to diagnose what is wrong.

 

[NY 986]

OK, so you and the friend have little in the way of experience when it comes to tractor repair. Does she control the estate in
terms of money? If so I would advise her to hire a mechanic to look the tractor over to give an estimate as to getting it running.
It would certainly bring a better price if running as opposed to not running. Now this is where it gets tricky. How much will she
have to spend to get it running? She could wind up spending several hundred dollars easily to make it a running tractor. In
theory she still should be ahead of the game if several hundred dollars was spent figuring a most probable selling price. Venue of
selling? If she sells privately there is more control but can be at risk in terms of liability namely implied warranty. Selling
at auction gets things to a point where the sale is as-is where is but she needs to have a good idea as to expected price. She may
need to bid the tractor back which means being at the sale or by the computer to outbid others if current bids are not sufficient.
Having a good talk with the auctioneer ahead of the auction will clue her in as to the auction process and any laws which are
associated with it in your state. If that tractor were selling as running with no obvious issues in today's market at least around
here it would be reasonable to assume it could fetch 5,000 dollars. Your area may vary. Lastly, if you are to move the tractor
not running put the shift lever into the TOW position as indicated on the shift pattern. If that is not obvious then get the
manual out as it will be covered there. Hint. The lever needs to be placed between the spot for 4 & 7 and 6 & 8. You should feel
a slight pop to know you have hit the correct spot.

 

[coonie minnie]

60, not 0!

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 08:52:34 03/28/22) 60, not 0!

Evidently you're unaware that Modern view has an "edit function" so incorrect posts can be corrected.

 

[rrlund]

It's just so hard to say. If it was on a farm auction with other tractors that ran, you'd be hard pressed to get $2000-2500.
Advertise it, and somebody somewhere might stumble on to it and say 'It's a John Deere, I know it'll always be worth what I paid
for it.' or 'I couldn't afford not to.' no matter what exorbitant price you put on it. Probably the higher the better. It shows
that you're confident that it will run and everything's OK whether it's true or not.

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Like the others have said it is a fairly strait tractor with the early Year Round cab and not the original tach. Read the post below about
towing it as lots of expensive damage can be done. Most likely an injection pump issue like mentioned. Where is the tractor located? That
could help us point you in the right direction. Tom

 

[NY 986]

Depends on how much effort the owner wants to put into selling the tractor. The market is wild right now. Just this past Saturday I saw a 1960's vintage Brillion cultipacker with pups sell for 3,500 dollars at auction. And no they did not look nice in terms of condition. If it were me I would get it running then list it for 6,500 dollars. No bites after a few weeks then lower the price down by 250 dollars. Still around a few weeks later then knock off another 250 dollars and so on. I'd be surprised if it was not gone by the time the price hit 5,000 dollars.

 

[rrlund]

All this crying over input costs doesn't seem to be stopping some people from spending money like a drunken sailor does it?

 

[NY 986]

You said it.

 

[ss55]

As others have said non-running cuts the value in half. The farm economy is flush with cash right now, so even older low cost equipment is bringing high prices. I suspect you could easily get $5,000 or more if that clean well equipped tractor was running. Even if you wind up paying someone $500 or more in labor and $1000 to rebuild the injector pump I think you will be far money ahead to do that. If you are not familiar with the tractor I would have a mechanic load it and haul it to their shop. After it is running you can drive it home.

The cab does hurts the value, but not a lot and the rear fenders are still in place and are worth $500 alone, so I would not pay extra money to have someone remove the cab. The wide front and 3 point hitch add $500 each, the three front weights add $50 to $75 each. The nice tires should add another $1000 as they would cost $2000 to replace. The alternator makes me believe it has already been converted to a 12 volt starter, replacement batteries will cost $100 each, it could require two batteries.

A new seat, arm rest and back rest might cost a few hundred dollars more, I don't know you would get all your money back for doing that.

Nice looking tractor.

 

[SVcummins]

Picked up -a 3020 powershift with a bad engine for 2000$
New rear tires almost new front tires new injection pump. Oh
but you know those John Deere parts are higher than anyone
we cant afford to gamble on it . Well the injection timing was
almost a 1/4 inch retarded valves were way way to tight . All it
cost me to get it running right was a day Of tuning up .

 

[SVcummins]

I see an old rusty block heater . My 4020 will start at ten below zero without either . An international wont start in a 100 degrees without the glow plugs
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto121522.png

 

[fdt860]

(quoted from post at 15:02:36 03/29/22) I see an old rusty block heater . My 4020 will start at ten below zero without either . An international wont start in a 100 degrees without the glow plugs
&lt;img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto121522.png

This is a very biased comment. Of course an indirect injected IH 460 will start bad, but all the others more recent IH with the D360, D407, D414 etc... start better than the Deere of the same area. Contemporary to the 4020, an IH 806 or IH 856 will start better, period.

Best tractor on earth would be a Deere 4020 PST with an IH 856 engine...

 

[DR. EVIL]

I've seen THOUSANDS of 300 & 400 series IH engines and NEVER seen a single glow plug in any of them. The 282 in 656, 560, & 706 and 4 cyl version in 504's had glow plugs, but they still started. You have other problems if they don't start. The best reason in the world to buy an 806, 856, 966, 1086, or any other 56,66,86, or 88 series tractor.
I saw where if you chase the threads on a Buru, ZD-11 glowplug for a 7.3L Powerstroke to match the threads in a 282 they start almost instantly just like the 7.3L's do. I drove my '96 F-250 to/from work for 20 years and even in 20 Below Zero days it would start after work. It cranked slower sitting out in the fridgid cold, no block heater, but it always started. SON drove it to work at Deere Davenport Plant for a year, always started for him too.
The P.O.S. 4010D Dad had would barely start in 40 degrees temps WITH the Deere block heater plugged in all night. It got a little easier to start when it was chocked full of new M&W sleeves and pistons and the right guy tuned up the inj pump.
Frankly, I think your lying about your 4020. And you obviously don't know what your talking about with your comment on INTERNATIONALS. YOU should visit the Red Power Magazine forum and learn something.

 

[Tx Jim]

Dr Evil
IHC engines may start easier than JD engines but IHC tractors of the era you mention sure aren't as operator friendly as the same era JD's. I drove my friends 986 for 1/2 of a work day &amp; told myself no more punishment &amp; switched to utilizing my more operator friendly JD 4255. I have felt the need to start my JD 4255 much in the cold Winter temps in the last 25 yrs.