John deere 348 baler trouble

[Cow wrangler]

Hello everyone, I am currently in the middle of trying to bale my fields and my baler has a problem. I have recently timed it and I am sure I did this correctly, however the problem is that the needles don't return all the way to the home position. They return most of the way but not all the way, this problem is causing the crank stop to hit the plungerhead arm and the sheer bolt keeps busting. I am not sure what to do. Do you guys have any tips for me? Thank you[/b]

 

[Bob]

I'm not familiar with a 348, but typically, there's some sort of shear pin in the mechanism that operates the needles.

Sounds like yours may have sheared.

Other possibilities would be a loose/worn/not functioning needle brake, something bent in the needle linkage or needle frame, or the "dog clutch" that operates the needles and knotters not working properly/stopping where it's supposed to.

Do you have an Operator's Manual for the baler?

Looks like you can view the manual at the DEERE website... http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OME131731_19/OME131731_19.htm

Did a little research, and found the info below... The link calls it a "shear bolt", but looking in the parts catalog, it comes up as Grade 2 5/16" bolt...
Diameter 0.312 IN
Thread UNC2A
Length 1.750 IN
Thread Length 0.875 IN
Width Across Flats 0.500 IN
Head Height 0.211 IN
DEERE part # 19H1875
Material Grade A17D
Shear pin

 

[Tx Jim]

Ditto on tightening needle brake. Needle frame should require 60 lbs(269 N) pull to move needle lift frame.

 

[Cow wrangler]

I have tried adjusting the brake a little bit but it hasn't seemed to help at all, even when I turn the flywheel by hand and manually trip the needles they just don't go back far enough. The shear pin for the needles did break a little while ago, I have replaced it though and that didn't seem to make a difference. I can pull the needles back to the home position by hand but they then move back to where they were. Thank you for replying to me.

 

[chuck2015]

(quoted from post at 08:33:15 08/14/16) I have tried adjusting the brake a little bit but it hasn't seemed to help at all, even when I turn the flywheel by hand and manually trip the needles they just don't go back far enough. The shear pin for the needles did break a little while ago, I have replaced it though and that didn't seem to make a difference. I can pull the needles back to the home position by hand but they then move back to where they were. Thank you for replying to me.

My suggestion would be to find someone who knows these balers and who can make the needed adjustments.

 

[Cow wrangler]

That's part of my problem, I have tried to find someone that will work on this but no one I have called will do it. Most of the tractor repair places say that they don't work on stuff this old. Basically it seems like it is me or nothing to get this thing fixed. I have a question for you guys, my uncle was the one to replace the knotter sheer bolt, if he did not put the correct size in would it cause the needles not to go to the home position?

 

[Bob]

Take a look at the needle brakes... they can get a badly worn area where they contact the brake disc to the point they are no longer effective and need to be replaced.

And, as I said before. something could be loose/worn/damaged in the "dog clutch" area.

 

[Cow wrangler]

Okay I will take a look, how would I measure the 60 pounds of pressure to make sure the brakes are adjusted properly?

 

[Kent Petersen]

if you have the operators manual it covers just about any thing that can go wrong on that baler

 

[tim s]

I'm surprised that B&D hasn't told him how to get a Manuel ;^)

 

[Cow wrangler]

There is a manual online for it, but I haven't seen this problem refreshed in it.

 

[Tx Jim]

One can view a 348 operators manual on line at JDparts.com. Ditto what Bob stated about brake pads being worn enough to touch on backside. By chance has someone put grease inside of trip dog gear cause trip dog to slip.

 

[Cow wrangler]

I will look at it tomorrow and I will post a picture of the brake pads on the needle brake. My question is would the brakes prevent the needles from Going to the home position? I was under the assumption that they are only supposed to stop the needles from bouncing back once the needles are in the home position.

 

[Tx Jim]

Actually the brake holds the needles in home position. When knotter trips if brake isn't holding needle frame will fall allowing tips of needles to enter bale case.

 

[ArleninOr]

To adjust the needle brake takes 2 wrenches. One to hold the bolt and one to turn the nut. Most people assume this is a stud.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 00:17:13 08/15/16) To adjust the needle brake takes 2 wrenches. One to hold the bolt and one to turn the nut. Most people assume this is a stud.

Only one wrench is required to adjust needle brake on a JD 347/348 sq baler because adjusting bolts have carriage heads.

 

[Cow wrangler]

I have tried adjusting the brake and that did not seem to make a difference I am think that the needle linkage needs to be adjusred.

 

[tim s]

I'm wondering what changed as you were working on it?? it was working out before,,so why do you need to change much if any? Not saying that you don't,, but in normal repair things don't get off that much...Remember "over adjusting" is a common issue when it comes to making mistakes working on balers...

 

[Cow wrangler]

This is the first time this baler has been used in 4 years. It stopped working when the sheer bolt for the needles broke. My uncle replaced the sheer bolt but it has never worked right since then. I have tried many other things and the needle linkage is one of the things I haven't tried yet.

 

[Tx Jim]

Is inside(lobe area) of gear clean of any grease???????????

 

[chuck2015]

(quoted from post at 20:03:09 08/13/16) Hello everyone, I am currently in the middle of trying to bale my fields and my baler has a problem. I have recently timed it and I am sure I did this correctly, however the problem is that the needles don't return all the way to the home position. They return most of the way but not all the way, this problem is causing the crank stop to hit the plungerhead arm and the sheer bolt keeps busting. I am not sure what to do. Do you guys have any tips for me? Thank you[/b]

i would double check the timing of this baler and looke for bent or worn parts.