John Deere 4020 remotes

iam trying to fix my remotes leaks which are really bad.ive had estimate already from deere and wow.ive found some rebuilt ones 550.00 exchange.but i also found some replacement ones different style go to pioneer which is ok but cant fidn out much about them,only 320.00 new.wonderign if anyone has used them or know anythign about them.any help would be great.i cant take old ones off to send to rebuild tractor sets outside so cant do that.
 

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I've read of a lot people switching to the Waspi-Grove ISO conversion kit on Facebook tractor groups that I frequently visit. The seals in the original cast iron housing should last longer due to barrels remaining stationary when attaching/detaching male tips. Price of $319 I've seen is without the custom type metal housing shown in your photo. See lower LH corner of photo below for different unpainted brackets.

https://woodwardcrossingscountrybasics.com/product/wapsi-jd-iso-conversion-kit/
 

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The local Deere dealer installed two pair of the Wapsi-style conversions on my 3020 tractor. Part number SW315-196.

I am struggling with the force required to couple and disconnect hoses to them. Sometimes I cannot make the connection.

Is there a trick to this? What am I missing?
 
I suggest to insert a male tip in breakaway coupler with hyd gauge attached then operate scv with engine operating monitoring pressures on gauge to determine if SCV control valves are controlling pressure as designed. Another thought is to place scv lever in float position when attaching male coupler tips
 
Have you tried with the tractor shut off and moving the handles to relieve pressure ?? Just a thought and a place to start.
Yes, I do that. I shut off the tractor, cycle the valve handle, and place it into the float position. I also press the nipple tip against something to release pressure in the hose.
 
What Tx Jim are getting at is that the scv valves themselves are leaking and keeping pressure on the couplers causing the issues you are having. So installing a gauge in the coupler and starting the tractor to see if pressure develops WITHOUT touching the levers.
 
Could the implement you are attaching to the tractor be retaining hydrolic pressure? Something like a hydrolic scraper holding the blade in the up position? This would cause the male quick couplers difficult to hook up. Push the ball check down to see if they are retaining pressure? My hydrolic scraper does this if I don't drop the blade or leave the gauge wheels in the up position.
 
Could the implement you are attaching to the tractor be retaining hydrolic pressure? Something like a hydrolic scraper holding the blade in the up position? This would cause the male quick couplers difficult to hook up. Push the ball check down to see if they are retaining pressure? My hydrolic scraper does this if I don't drop the blade or leave the gauge wheels in the up position.
Any hyd controlled implement if disconnected from breakaway in raised position unless safety/transport locks are engaged will have hyd pressure exerted on hose male tips. Also parking equipment in sunlight the heating of hoses & hyd oil contained within hoses/hyd cylinders can have pressure increases from heating of hyd components by sunlight.
 
What Tx Jim are getting at is that the scv valves themselves are leaking and keeping pressure on the couplers causing the issues you are having. So installing a gauge in the coupler and starting the tractor to see if pressure develops WITHOUT touching the levers.
Thank you for further explaining my statement.
 
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Any hyd controlled implement if disconnected from breakaway in raised position unless safety/transport locks are engaged will have hyd pressure exerted on hose male tips. Also parking equipment in sunlight the heating of hoses & hyd oil contained within hoses/hyd cylinders can have pressure increases from heating of hyd components by sunlight.
The gentleman was indicating that he was having trouble hooking up an implement to the aux hydrolicsHebmentioned he had turned the tractor off and exersized the control levers and put it in float position and still had trouble attaching the hydrolic hoses to the aux hydrolics on his tractor. If the hoses on the implement has hyd pressure in them it can be hard to connect the quick connect hoses until the pressure is relieved. That is all I was getting at.
 
The gentleman was indicating that he was having trouble hooking up an implement to the aux hydrolicsHebmentioned he had turned the tractor off and exersized the control levers and put it in float position and still had trouble attaching the hydrolic hoses to the aux hydrolics on his tractor. If the hoses on the implement has hyd pressure in them it can be hard to connect the quick connect hoses until the pressure is relieved. That is all I was getting at.
Thank you
I was only attempting to explain further to him what some more of his tractors hydraulic problems could be created from.
 
Here is an update: I bought a pressure gauge for the hydraulic outlets and took pressures today.

I am attaching the results in a grid. I'm also attaching a couple of photos.

Upshot: If I am interpreting this correctly, there is residual pressure in the neutral lever setting in both SCV blocks: 700 psi in one and 2400 psi in the other.

Looking forward to your analysis.
 

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When you pressurize the hyd gauge then return control lever to neutral position the set pressure should remain at hyd stand-by pressure until control lever is moved to opposite position/direction to release the pressure. 3020 stand-by pressure is 50 #s higher than I would set it.

From viewing your pressure test results it appears that both 3020 scv's control valves need attention/adjustment.

4020 scv appears to be correct but could use a hyd stand-by pressure increase to 2250/2350 psi.

I posted your pressure chart so it's easier for other members to view.
 

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When you pressurize the hyd gauge then return control lever to neutral position the set pressure should remain at hyd stand-by pressure until control lever is moved to opposite position/direction to release the pressure.

Jim, thanks for the reply!

1. From your quote, if standby pressure should be seen after moving to neutral following being pressured, then why did I see zeros at neutral on the "healthy" 4020 after pressurizing? Maybe I am testing it the wrong way.

2. BTW, the SCV valves were overhauled at the dealer 250 hours ago.
 
When one moves scv lever either direction to pressurize the breakaway coupler the pressure in that circuit should hold until lever is moved in opposite direction which should open return valve on original circuit while other circuit is pressurized.

I think JD dealer technician didn't get valve clearances adjusted correctly or 1 or more of the 4 poppet valve seats in each scv are bad
 
I will try again. On the 4020, I thought the pressure gauge dropped to zero as soon as I moved the lever from up/down to neutral.

I have a service manual, but did not find anything that related to what I am doing regarding testing pressure in the SCVs. I was looking in section 230, group 15.
 
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