John Deere 435 Diesel

Hello, I just acquired a JD 435 with the detroit diesel 2-53. I have quite a few 2 cylinders but I dont know anything about these little diesels. The tractor starts and runs good no smoke but it is missing the kill cable and I have no throttle control. It runs fast but doesn't seem to be running away with itself. So here are a couple of questions. First who is a good source of parts? JD online doesn't show anything hardly and folks like Steiner seem to have seats etc but not much else. I need the kill cable because to shut it off I have to put it in high gear and lug the motor down 2. Where does the kill cable hook up and 3. Any ideas on why I have no throttle control and a possible fix. 4. who would be an expert on the 435 and how would I get in touch with them. Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
 
Nothing special about this cable. NAPA will have a T-handle cable that will work. You need a parts manual to figure out why the throttle doesn't work.
 
It connects to a 'cable bug' that pulls the throttle linkage all the way closed to stop the engine. Later in the day I can get a picture for you.
 

The JD parts book shows where the kill cable and throttle connects .
1-800-522-7448 has the Detroit Service manual and the chassis service manual .
There is a 40/420/430 Group and 435
Group on Facebook .
There are updates for the blower seals , cam follower springs , valve springs , injectors and sleeve/pistons .
 
Cable attachment pic
cvphoto90424.jpg
 
My 435 that we have had since early 70's has no cable anymore as the throttle will just shut it down when pulled to the left
 
If you happen across an old Motors truck manual it will have all the engine information. With Detroit's just go by the series number for the manual.

Sounds like you have something sticking inside messing up the speed control. You'll need a manual to go there as you don't need a run a way. A 53 series will scream all day at 2200 rpm's.
 
OK I have been trying to also do some research and look at this thing in the evening to figure it out and some of what I am reading says that if the rack under the valve cover is not moving it can cause the tractor to not respond to throttle changes. Anyone know anything about this and what they are talking about?
 
until you get the throttle free I would NOT crank the engine again. It sounds to me like you may have a sticking injector. On Detroits the throttle controls the governor and the governor controls the rack (injecters) by spring tension. The stage is set for a run away. The usual way to stop most detroits is simply take the throttle to no fuel. The kill cable is for stopping a run away.
 
I am good with all the gasoline 2 cylinders but no clue on this tractor. Ok so my next question and keep in mind I do not know anything about 435' is a sticking injector an easy repair or a complicated and expensive one and can I do it? I looked in the IT manual and it calls for a lot of special tools to pull injectors on the 435 and I suspect most of those may be hard to find and obsolete. I have tore A's B's M's etc down to bare blocks and transmission cases and worked back with complete restorations so I am not mechanically illiterate but I am learning on this 435 because it is a different beast. The tractor really cranks and runs good there just isn't much throttle control if any at all.
 
(quoted from post at 11:47:22 06/02/21) OK I have been trying to also do some research and look at this thing in the evening to figure it out and some of what I am reading says that if the rack under the valve cover is not moving it can cause the tractor to not respond to throttle changes. Anyone know anything about this and what they are talking about?

The rack is moving or it would over rev or not start . The problem is the throttle and governor are not working together and controlling the engine.
 
(quoted from post at 14:09:09 06/02/21) I am good with all the gasoline 2 cylinders but no clue on this tractor. Ok so my next question and keep in mind I do not know anything about 435' is a sticking injector an easy repair or a complicated and expensive one and can I do it? I looked in the IT manual and it calls for a lot of special tools to pull injectors on the 435 and I suspect most of those may be hard to find and obsolete. I have tore A's B's M's etc down to bare blocks and transmission cases and worked back with complete restorations so I am not mechanically illiterate but I am learning on this 435 because it is a different beast. The tractor really cranks and runs good there just isn't much throttle control if any at all.

First thing to do is retire the IT manuals to only holding the shop door open or swatting flies with them .
1-800-522-7448 for the real JD manuals is cheaper than messing up the engine.
Unless you understand "proportional Control " And know what to test and adjust. Don't mess with it.
 
I just watched a YouTube video of a 435 supposedly with a stuck injector and that tractor would not start and stay running and it smoked terribly while turning over. Again this tractor will start and does not smoke. 9036490026 is my number if anybody wants to call later today after 5 pm central to visit. I appreciate any help.
 
Use the IT manual to swat flies. They are wrong. I don't recall any special tools are needed to remove the injector. You do have to have the gauge to set it when going back. You can get the gauge from snap on or gm. Cranking good and no smoke I seriously doubt that is your problem.
 
Pulled out the MOTOR TRUCK AND DIESEL
manual and did a little reading. With it cranking good and no smoke I am wondering if someone has been playing with the buffer screw or idle speed adjusting screw and that's why it isn't responding well? Good Lord willing and the creek don't rise I'll try to give you a holler this evening and walk you through those two adjustments.

Seems like I might have an old Deere 435 manual somewhere if I can find it.
 
If an injector is stuck at a point that is say 981 rpms that Detroit may very well crank and run just fine, not smoke, not skip and run 981 rpm for hours. If you start jerking around on the throttle lever and the governor goes to a higher rpm setting and all of a sudden the stuck injector may allow the rack to jump to a full fuel setting you will see that Detroit running away and you won't have any options till you remove the hood and then the valve cover. Don't crank it again without at least getting the valve cover off so you have some options incase it does run away.
 
What are you planning on using for engine Oil. They recommend different oil for a two stroke. I sent you an e-mail Did you receive it?
 
No I didn't get the email. Also I have not even looked into engine oils yet. I did read something that talked about special oil and it needed to be low ash. I would appreciate suggestions.
 

I had a 1968 GMC with a 238 and the injector seized going down the road. It would only run at one speed no mater what I did. Had one injector replaced and fixed it.
 

Straight weight low ash SF-2 oil that says rated for detroit two stroke on the container. Otherwise regular ash oil scuffs the bores and plugs intake/exhaust ports.
 
Update. Thanks to everyone who responded. Turns out the advice was correct and we had a stuck injector that was the issue. I removed the valve cover and found the rack would not move and one injector stuck down. After a YouTube video on how to simply get a stuck Detroit injector free I was able to get it completely free and the 435 now cranks, idles and revs as it is supposed to. Many thanks to all.
 

When the hood has been removed . Check the play in the steering shaft universal joints . And the slop in the sheering shaft keyway/Half moon key and the steering pedestal input shaft .
 
Its pretty bad but tolerable for now especially since a refurbished assembly is $600. I ended up having to cut the shaft just
behind the part that woodruff keys onto the front steering pedestal to remove it to access the valve cover. Even though it had a
cotter key someone had welded the splined collar at the dash so it could not be separated there. Ive got to weld it back for the
time being. Right now I am trying to find a good grill as the hood and grill top are excellent but the sides, screens and lower
grill sheet metal are home made. Not having any luck so far.
 
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