John deere 60 clutch

[Gator123]

I have a 1953 john deere 60 that i am restoring and had some concern's about the engine clutch. Hopefully it is nothing much to worry about. I cannot get the clutch to snap in and out like everyone talks about. As i engage the clutch handle i can feel it cam over and it does take some effort to disengage but still no snap and not a lot of force is required at all to move the lever. The tractor has not been started yet so most everything is dry other than some assembly oil on clutch slider, fork assembly, etc. I have replaced everything inside the drum that i can. All new discs, driver, dogs, toggles, bushing, bearing, etc. I have adjusted several times and the three adjustment nuts seem like they are ran in alittle over half way. If i engage the clutch and turn the drum over by hand it will move the tractor. I have also checked twice to make sure the clutch fork is installed correctly. I have read several other posts from here and have checked everything anyone has suggested like the worn pin that keeps the toggles and dogs straight. Mine is ok and not worn. Wasnt sure if after the tractor is started up for the first time and everything gets spinning around and lubricated if it would get any better. This is my first two cylinder but it is great. The drum does move in and out about 1/8" or less but i read that was necessary to allow the clutch discs to seperate just a little. Thanks for any help. This forum has helped me alot thru this project.

 

[ajdeereman]

Are the pins on the linkage that engages the clutch tight. I was having the same issue and found out that the pins and holes were worn out causing the clutch not to fully engage. I had to drill holes out in tractor and linkages and install larger picker pins in and this fixed my issue

 

[55 50 Ron]

"If I engage the clutch and turn the drum over by hand it will move the tractor." That means you are turning the engine over too. Is your compression low? Seems it might be.

 

[Gator123]

I do have quite a bit of slop in the linkage from the clutch lever to the fork lever. Didn't think about that but i can see where all that slop might keep the clutch from snapping in hard. Thanks for the reply. I had planned on trying to weld up and re-drill some of the worn out holes in the different linkages before paint. I think all of the linkages have some play in them. May be better to just drill out for a bigger pin. Thanks again.

 

[Gator123]

The compression is very good. New pistons, rings, machine work ln head and valves, etc. I just left the spark plugs loose while i was barring the engine over by hand to time it. Good thinking though. Thanks.

 

[ben70b]

You can buy oversized pins for the linkage out of about any old tractor book. They may have em for sale on this sight.

 

[gtx1967jewison]

You cannot have oil on the clutch- it runs dry. Engage clutch & tighten all 3 castle nuts 1 slot at a time until it's as firm as you'd like. That's it, provided it's correctly assembled. Sloppy linkage is of no effect unless you run out of adjustment. That would require extremely worn holes- to the point of the pins falling out or wearing through.

 

[BushogPapa]

Many times, to get the "Feel" you like on the clutch, you need to go ahead and give one or two Clutch bolt nuts a one Castle adjustment, looser or tighter.
It does not take much to change the "Snap" to too hard or too loose..
In other words, don't bend the cotter pins over until you are sure you like where it is..!!

Ron.