John Deere 620 NF Tie Down Points

catengi

New User
Hello all,

In a few weeks I'll be making a trip up to Ohio to purchase and haul back to NC a John Deere 620 from my uncle. It has the narrow front end so I'm curious how you all tie down these tractors to the trailer. As far as I know there's no built in tie down points so if I have to fabricate anything ahead of time I'd like to do that before I leave while I have access to my shop and tools. Will be using four chains and binders to hold it down to a 15k GVWR trailer so it won't go anywhere. Any advice/pictures would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
 
The back is easy. Wrap 1 chain around each axle. I would wrap a chain around the frame rail for the front if there is room. DO NOT tie off to the narrow front.
 
Thanks for the reply Scott. I was hoping there'd be enough space to just wrap a chain around the front frame rails on either side, would definitely make life a lot easier. Have no plans on tying off to the narrow front for transport, might have to use it to winch it onto the trailer though as it's currently not in a running state. If there's not enough room to wrap a chain around the frame rails I'll have to figure out how to bolt a tie down point to the existing frame holes or something.
 
There is a good spot on the frame up front. Tied my 630 many times this way, one on each side, just in front of the toolbox. Then made a D ring bracket that bolted to the sides of the frame.
 
There is a good spot on the frame up front. Tied my 630 many times this way, one on each side, just in front of the toolbox. Then made a D ring bracket that bolted to the sides of the frame.
Do you happen to have any pictures of your D ring brackets? Wouldn't mind going this route as it would help prevent the chains from rubbing off what little paint might be left on the frame rail.
 
Most guys I hauled their tractors to drives had the front cultivator bracket on there with a hole in it. Just use a shackle with the screw in pin and loop the chain through it. I also used one chain just let the loose chain hang at the center of the trailer hooking each end to the trailer sides. binder used up most of the chain a snap binder there and a ratchet binder on the back. I use the swing plate or again a shackle on the drawpinhole in the drawbar if using the swing plate under the drawbar just poke the center of the chain again through with ends hooked to trailer sides and binders so middle is loose. Still has 4 lines off the tractor and only need 2 chains get 20 footers for this . I never liked tieing to the axle shafts since the wheels were in the way .IF they are not in the way and axles stick out past trailer with a 102 trailer you would now be in the over sized load category being that you would be over the 102 or 8-1/2 feet wide. If you plan to haul it oversize it now will need permits ,flages,signs and blinky lights. this is if you want to be legal and then most scales will want to see you also . If you go tieing down to the pressed steel frames keep in mind you can bend them pulling to much pretty easy. IF you don't want/have a cultivator bracket for the front an anlge iron would work or use a piece of chain on the front side bolts to hold it there. I have also used the front end of the drawbar under the belly with it slid in a long ways and pulled forward on it. Still has 4 chains just not much to hold the frontend down. With 6 tractors to the load they didn't have much room to move if they did come loose and usually the rear tires were tight together so they couldn't move anyway. in 10 years of hauling tractors and other equipment I never had them question my tie downs. Hauled commercially as a motor carrier for 15 years.
 
Do you happen to have any pictures of your D ring brackets? Wouldn't mind going this route as it would help prevent the chains from rubbing off what little paint might be left on the frame rail.
These are photos I took at various tractor shows, not your specific model but you get the idea.

Springfield 2012 020.jpg

Springfield 2012 018.jpg

DSCF0024.JPG
 
Thank you everybody for your suggestions! I think I have enough options that I should be able to figure out something on site when I load the tractor, whether I use the front weight mount bolts or just wrap a chain around the frame or something. As a backup plan I'm having my brother in law weld me a pair of 6,667lb D rings onto some 3/8" flat bar that I can bring with me. If I need to I can cut/drill to fit the frame holes and bolt them on then chain down using those. Thanks again for the pictures and advice!
 
Thank you everybody for your suggestions! I think I have enough options that I should be able to figure out something on site when I load the tractor, whether I use the front weight mount bolts or just wrap a chain around the frame or something. As a backup plan I'm having my brother in law weld me a pair of 6,667lb D rings onto some 3/8" flat bar that I can bring with me. If I need to I can cut/drill to fit the frame holes and bolt them on then chain down using those. Thanks again for the pictures and advice!
That sure beats wrapping a chain around the frame and scaring it all up.
 
Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice! Was able to get the tractor home last month without any issues. It's definitely a project and no trailer queen so I just wrapped two chains around the rear axle to tie it down in the back. For the front, the brackets my brother in law welded for me worked great. Marked and drilled the mounting holes when I got there and bolted them on. Rode great for the 600 miles home, no issues.
 

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If hauling in Freezing weather you should cover the stack and the intake so water doesn't get down them on the road then hydro lock a cylinder or freeze and break something . No criticism involved just an FYI thing. Even if it just rains during the summer it can happen. I would hook your chains a bit different. I liked them down behind the rub rail then back up to the opposite side of the stake pocket so the chain pulls on the whole pocket rather than just the one side. Also behind the rub rail if some how you rubbed something or something rubbed you the tie downs would not be broken during that. Those D rings look good on there and better than those eye bolts a lot of guys want to use for that. The eye bolts with the swivel like on the picture of the 60standard are fine also but the rigid ones are not intended to be pulled on sideways and will break with little stress on them. I used old pieces of cut 4 inch straps for a cushion on chains or to protect straps from being chaffed and even to protect paint from scratches in paint. Wrap the strap piece around a couple times and then set the chain tighten and done.
 
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