John deere 640 rake

[Tstoner]

I have a john deere 640 rake. I'm in the process of replacing some of the bearings in bar ends. I noticed the right side reel (non-gear drive side) if I push in and pull out on it I can get it to move quite a bit on its spindle. Is this by design or is it just from wear and I need to add some washers?

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds as if the loose brg need to be replaced before the brgs fail when hay needs to be raked.

 

[Tstoner]

The bearings aren't loose inside of the reel. The reel slides onto a smooth spindle held on by some washers and a cotter key. With about a half inch of movement. I just didn't know if tgere was a reason for this or if I need to add some more washers to take up some of that slop

 

[DanielW]

Sounds identical to the Deere 670 and 894 rakes. There are shim washers on there, and the manual indicates to 'use as needed'.

1/2" sounds like a lot of axial movement, so it probably wouldn't hurt to shim it up. But you want to leave a little wiggle room for axial movement - otherwise when the frame flexes it'll put a lot of axial load into that hub/bearings, and possibly shear the cotter key or wreck the bearings. I'd think 1/16" to 1/8" would be more than enough. Is the pin that holds the support rod in the cast mount bracket worn sloppy or missing (it. 3 in pic below)? I'm surprised that hub would wear enough to give 1/2" of axial play.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree with Daniel.

 

[showcrop]

I n have a 640. I think that it has maybe 1/8 inch play.

 

[Tstoner]

Thanks for the info!

 

[bob p mn]

I went and checked my 640 for play this afternoon as I always remember it having about an 1/8'' of play on that end, we had used it last to rake some real heavy hay and hay had wrapped on the end and it is now sitting with almost no play. I think I would add a couple shims and not worry about it. Although probobly not a bad idea to check that #3 pin DanielW mentioned just to be safe.

 

[Tstoner]

Thanks for the response guys! This thing has been a project for sure. I got it for free 2 years ago and noticed I had 4 bar ends that were ran loose In the past, wore a pretty big hole in the reel and someone had welded them to the reel itself. I took everything apart my plan is to in a sense "rotate" the reels and drill some new holes in them instead of replacing the reels

 

[showcrop]

Thanks for the response guys! This thing has been a project for sure. I got it for free 2 years ago and noticed I had 4 bar ends that were ran loose In the past, wore a pretty big hole in the reel and someone had welded them to the reel itself. I took everything apart my plan is to in a sense "rotate" the reels and drill some new holes in them instead of replacing the reels

Those bearings are a lot of money. I have one spare on the shelf. Open up your gearbox and put new seals, bearings and oil in it. ESPCIALLY the seal for the engage handle on the top.

 

[Tx Jim]

Model 640 rake reel pipe brgs are plain ole tapered roller brgs. JD part # JD8914( LM11749) & JD8244(LM11700) @ $9.9 per set. The shaft E16080 @ $79.25 each are rather pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/LM11749-LM11710-tapered-bearing-bearings/dp/B00UDJUJN6

 

[Tstoner]

Yes the shafts are very pricey. I had to buy 3 of them due to the shafts being welded to the reel

 

[showcrop]

Model 640 rake reel pipe brgs are plain ole tapered roller brgs. JD part # JD8914( LM11749) & JD8244(LM11700) @ $9.9 per set. The shaft E16080 @ $79.25 each are rather pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/LM11749-LM11710-tapered-bearing-bearings/dp/B00UDJUJN6

I bought an assembly consisting of the bearing and shaft. My main concern is the shaft. But maybe I will take a few apart and see if I should replace bearings only.