John Deere b rebuild

[Gregorytractorguy]

I have a 1945 John Deere b. Tractor was ran without oil pressure and it needs a complete rebuild. I completely disassembled engine yesterday.
I am wondering what would be best for rebuilding. Valve job? How much can head be shaved safely? What to do with block boar, shave bottom side? Cam shaft regrind? What’s best for hi comp gas pistons? I’d like 30-35 hp when done.
Cost is not a concern
Any advice is appreciated thank you!

 

[used red MN]

I completely disassembled engine yesterday.

I can’t answer most of your hot rodding/puller questions but I am curious if the above means the crankshaft journals were damaged and you needed to pull the crankshaft out? If so that means installing a stroker crankshaft would be a possibility particularly since you say cost is not a concern.

 

[Gregorytractorguy]

I can’t answer most of your hot rodding/puller questions but I am curious if the above means the crankshaft journals were damaged and you needed to pull the crankshaft out? If so that means installing a stroker crankshaft would be a possibility particularly since you say cost is not a concern.

I pulled crank and unfortunately the journals and bearings are damaged. I don’t what to pull it or hot rod it. late Jd b made 30 hp with just a few more cubic inches from factory. Main reason for 30/35 hp is to run my rotary rake. I’m not 100 percent against stroker crank but I’m just not sure if it would work well for on farm use long term.

 

[used red MN]

I pulled crank and unfortunately the journals and bearings are damaged. I don’t what to pull it or hot rod it. late Jd b made 30 hp with just a few more cubic inches from factory. Main reason for 30/35 hp is to run my rotary rake. I’m not 100 percent against stroker crank but I’m just not sure if it would work well for on farm use long term.

Sounds like a compression bump will get you where you need to be. A stroker crank is probably a bit much for a rake tractor. And you can save that money for retirement!

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I wanna see this rake that requires a hp bump you get big enough it’s possible you lack weight and would be happier with an A or G

My 36 unstyled does just fine raking and tedding the rest of the family just doesn’t want to go to the trouble to start it. And she has like 18 hp. Yours has more than that.

So you will be probably looking for a used crank. I wouldn’t mess with the crank. Check what bearings it needs when you get the “new” one.

There are places that respline a crank I’d see about turning yours in for a possible core depending on how bad the journals are

Depending what head you have I believe one thing you could do is put the unstyled head on. They sell them brand new here. I believe since it’s flat it increased the compression a substantial amount but you might want to post this in the pullers section because I don’t do much of this.

I have a new head from yesterdays tractor on my 38 long frame they work well I’m glad they offer it.

You will have to probably get different pistons but again they might know at the bottom

 

[560Dennis]

Reference video ,Andrew does most of what your thinking about at 15:30

 

[ss55]

I have a 1945 John Deere b. Tractor was ran without oil pressure and it needs a complete rebuild. I completely disassembled engine yesterday.
I am wondering what would be best for rebuilding. Valve job? How much can head be shaved safely? What to do with block boar, shave bottom side? Cam shaft regrind? What’s best for hi comp gas pistons? I’d like 30-35 hp when done.
Cost is not a concern
Any advice is appreciated thank you!

Your 1945 Model B has the 175 CID engine and made around 25 HP when new? Bumping that up by 20 to 50 percent to 30 to 38 HP will take some major modifications. After you increase the compression will you still be able to run on 87 octane E-10 or 88 octane E-15 pump gasoline? If you need to move up to 91 octane premium gas the cost of fuel could jump by 50 percent.

An M & W Power Block might have been available for your tractor, but those can be hard to find in usable condition. The 1947 B increased displacement to 190 CID to made 28 HP. The Model 50 increased RPM to make 30 HP. The Model 520 and 530 increased RPM again to make 38 HP. All had other gradual improvements too, like live power, two barrel carburetor, more weight, power steering, better comfort, etc.

As was mentioned in earlier posts, the next model larger or newer will get all the HP you are looking for: A, 50, 520, 60, 620. Even with an unlimited budget, buying a different tractor that fits your needs better should cost a lot less than modifying the B.

Enjoy your new project.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Your 1945 Model B has the 175 CID engine and made around 25 HP when new? Bumping that up by 20 to 50 percent to 30 to 38 HP will take some major modifications. After you increase the compression will you still be able to run on 87 octane E-10 or 88 octane E-15 pump gasoline? If you need to move up to 91 octane premium gas the cost of fuel could jump by 50 percent.

An M & W Power Block might have been available for your tractor, but those can be hard to find in usable condition. The 1947 B increased displacement to 190 CID to made 28 HP. The Model 50 increased RPM to make 30 HP. The Model 520 and 530 increased RPM again to make 38 HP. All had other gradual improvements too, like live power, two barrel carburetor, more weight, power steering, better comfort, etc.

As was mentioned in earlier posts, the next model larger or newer will get all the HP you are looking for: A, 50, 520, 60, 620. Even with an unlimited budget, buying a different tractor that fits your needs better should cost a lot less than modifying the B.

Enjoy your new project.

Bigger radiator on an A as well if there isn’t a water pump the little ones can get overworked easier

 

[Loosehandle]

I have a 1945 John Deere b. Tractor was ran without oil pressure and it needs a complete rebuild. I completely disassembled engine yesterday.
I am wondering what would be best for rebuilding. Valve job? How much can head be shaved safely? What to do with block boar, shave bottom side? Cam shaft regrind? What’s best for hi comp gas pistons? I’d like 30-35 hp when done.
Cost is not a concern
Any advice is appreciated thank you!

New oversized pistons for a 4.5" bore B haven't been historically available, however many were converted to gas in the past with cast iron pistons. I have a wartime B that's been sleeved and has such pistons, it also has a homemade gas manifold made from weldable pipe elbows makes pretty good power. It's also possible to bore a 4.5" block to take late B standard pistons.

 

[ss55]

Bigger radiator on an A as well if there isn’t a water pump the little ones can get overworked easier

Very good point.

Would a 1945 wartime B have a steel radiator instead of copper?

Can you still find field ready As and 60s for between $1,000 and $2,000?

 

[Gregorytractorguy]

I wanna see this rake that requires a hp bump you get big enough it’s possible you lack weight and would be happier with an A or G

My 36 unstyled does just fine raking and tedding the rest of the family just doesn’t want to go to the trouble to start it. And she has like 18 hp. Yours has more than that.

So you will be probably looking for a used crank. I wouldn’t mess with the crank. Check what bearings it needs when you get the “new” one.

There are places that respline a crank I’d see about turning yours in for a possible core depending on how bad the journals are

Depending what head you have I believe one thing you could do is put the unstyled head on. They sell them brand new here. I believe since it’s flat it increased the compression a substantial amount but you might want to post this in the pullers section because I don’t do much of this.

I have a new head from yesterdays tractor on my 38 long frame they work well I’m glad they offer it.

You will have to probably get different pistons but again they might know at the bottom

Thank you for replying!
I have a 1937 JD A. I have used it on the hold newholland bar raje and it works wonderfully. I have a rotary rake now and it says in big bold letters on it to run at 350-450 pro rpm. The A does okay on flat ground in 2-4 cutting. But if you head up hill or try raking big first cutting low gear is still to fast.
I will look into head replacement with an early one or maybe when I have machine shop clean mine up just have them take some off of it ?

 

[Gregorytractorguy]

Reference video ,Andrew does most of what your thinking about at 15:30

Thank you !

 

[Gregorytractorguy]

Very good point.

Would a 1945 wartime B have a steel radiator instead of copper?

Can you still find field ready As and 60s for between $1,000 and $2,000?

I think you can find feild ready A for less than three in the north east. Can’t seem to touch a 60 for that. I have a 1937 JD A.

 

[560Dennis]

Thank you !

Welcome ! he also does a few more videos of John Deere , b transmission , good reference , good luck

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I think you can find feild ready A for less than three in the north east. Can’t seem to touch a 60 for that. I have a 1937 JD A.

My 52 A is by far my favorite tractor for this the speed choices are a bit better with the single stick transmission. It’s heavier. And yes it’s pretty much a 60.

You probably would want some weight on the back wheels in one form or another if you do something the A struggles with.

 

[ss55]

I think you can find feild ready A for less than three in the north east. Can’t seem to touch a 60 for that. I have a 1937 JD A.

Wow! Yeah, here in MN some people are asking those kind of prices, but they don't sell until the price drops considerably. Around here most hobby farmers don't have money to burn like they did a few years ago.

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