john deere B

[Jeremy White]

hello all! I am now a owner of a 1939 john deere B that was originally a duel fuel tractor. problem is that someone swiped the valve and shutters and I would just assume convert it to burn gas anyways. my question is, what all is involved? do I need to step up the compression, change carburator, change the head, what needs to be done? see I'm new to john deere's an could use any help possible. If this were a farmall I wouldnt be so lost! ha! ha!If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it! also if anyone could point me to getting parts like a shifter cover for the transmission or other rare parts for this would be greatly appreciated as well! THANKS FOR READING?

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Jeremy,

Your tractor will run fine on gas. But If you want to up the horsepower, you could put gas pistons in it to up the compression, and put a gas manifold on it as well. I think you could also change the nozzel out in the carb if you really want to get into it.

Ebay is one place to get parts. There are also numerous salvage yards specializing in JD two cylinder stuff. Pat browning has a list on his site. Two Cylinder magazine also lists numerous vendors.

Kurt

 

[wilamayb]

You can step up the compression by installing new pistons. So far as I know the only pistons available now are "M&W style" which are just a bit higher compression than factory gas pistons. If you install gas pistons you should also install a gas manifold.

The heads were the same on Deere tractors (unlike farmalls) regardless of fuel type except for the model 70, so you dont have to worry about that. You may just want to install hardened valve seats to your head.

Just have your head and block milled enough to make them flat and nothing else. The compression gains are nominal and you begin to have problems like the push rods being too long.

I think you should have a DLTX 10 carburetor. I'm unsure if there is any type of gas nozzle available for that carb or not. You can call Roberts carb repair and ask.

You could also install a DLTX 67 carb off a later B which would have a gas nozzle and a larger bore. It may help it breathe a bit better.

 

[PBrowning]

If you are familar with Farmalls, then treat your "B" as you would a Farmal H or M. They always were designed to burn gasoline just fine, and wil continue to do so - no need to change the engine! As for more power - if I wanted more power, I'd find a bigger tractor!(PatB)

 

[wilamayb]

Pat, I see your point to some degree, but the reason they were low compression was simply to burn cheap fuels. Those fuels are no longer avaialble except for the rare exception and if found certianly are no longer cheap.

In later years Deere made the same tractor with either option with the gasoline making more HP. There WAS a reason for this change!

I am of the opinion if you have to buy new pistons why not put gas pistons in? It is easier to find new pistons and they will give more performance to boot. I think a guy would have to leave his brain in his back pocket to not use gas pistons unless he has the hope of one day burning heavy fuels in his/her tractor.

I have never used anything but gas pistons in any of my rebuilds and have never been sorry of the power advantage and efficiency.

 

[PBrowning]

Oh this I fully realize. But to be sure, I doubt very seriously that anyone will buy a JD-B tractor today to farm with and depend upon to pull the load. Outside of pullers, I would venture that 95 out of every 100 B tractors in use today are in hobby use. And yes, some may even be used to cut the grass, but that hardly justifies a gasoline upgrade of the engine. I consider it a matter of economics. (PatB)

 

[Kurt_JDB]

'Course there are some of us who are crazy enough to convert a gas machine back to all-fuel status.

I have a '51 B that left the factory as an all-fuel but was converted at some point to gas only. I have rounded up an all-fuel manifold as well as a NOS set of all-fuel pistons and rings.

Why? Just 'cause I could say it was all original and could burn kerosene or number 2 heating oil.



Kurt

 

[RandyB(MI)]

Pat , I believe you gave the perfect answer to his question. He obviously doesn't wish to open the engine if he don't have to . He doesn't know that much about JD,s anyway. He just wants to burn gas and wondered if there was anything he MUST do to that end. Just fill it with gas and enjoy it. And like Pat said , if it aint enough power , get an "A" or even a late "B". Some like to enjoy their tractors as apposed to "working" on them all the time.

 

[wilamayb]

I admire you for it. I"m too impatient to wait on the parts to roll around. It would be neat to have one operating as it was intended. I"ve heard the sound and smells are distinct.

 

[pbb]

I read on here a couple years back of people running 50/50 gas and diesel mixed in a model D.Is there anybody that has tried that?what is the advantages?

 

[Kevin Thurman]

You dont need to do anything. I have a few of these myself a 1937 and a 1944 both are set up as all- fuel like they were from the factory and both run fine on gas.

 

[Jeremy White]

Thanks to ALL! I"m gonna have to go through the motor anyways because this tractor sat out so long that the rear end is stuck. Hey, I cant complain it was given to me for FREE as long as I gave it a good home. pretty much am determined to fix it and let my wife play around with it as she is more of a john deere nut than me! HA! HA!

 

[BushogPapa]

You say that the "Rear-end is stuck"....

Could it just be that the Brakes are stuck, or that it was left to set because it is stuck in 2 Gears..?

Something to ponder, before you try to force it to move...!

Ron..

 

[Jeremy White]

Thanks Ron for the advice! I believe its stuck in 2 gears. Cause with the wheels off the ground, theyll spin but not in the same direction at the same time. At least I hope thats what it is. We have an International ID-6 thats is famous for this but it usually wouldnt budge at all running that is! Thanks for the thought!

 

[wilamayb]

Now that you have confirmed my suspicions on your engine if you rebore you will have a much easier time buying replacement high compression gas pistons than finding oversized all fuel pistons, as well as having greater size options if you have to go to .090 or .125 over std. size.

If you dont have to bore but do take you engine apart with intentions of installing new rings be sure to inspect your pistons for ring land wear. If the ring moves from top to bottom in the land on the piston you have a problem. It WILL smoke and USE OIL. Nothing like having a tractor painted up a pretty and then it smokes.

 

[Pat Lafon]

No advantages to mixing fuels. I've tried it on my 1940 B and all it did was cause plugs to foul. smells weird. smokes. i run gas with a little bit of 2 cycle oil in mine and that's it.

 

[BushogPapa]

I forgot what year you said this is..
It is not too bad a job to take the shifter/steering support off and re-align the forks, should that be what it is..
On a Late Styled "B", I know you need to remove the top cap (Medallion) off, remove the steering wheel and slide the steering shaft forward to get it out of your way..don't loose any ball bearings, tho..!!!
If it IS in 2 gears, inspect the gears well, to be sure NO gears are damaged..!!
Check to see that the bearings are adjusted and not loose..
I saw a picture of one JD 70 that had slipped into 2 gears and it supposedly STOPPED the engine so abruptly that it SHEARED the splines out of the Flywheel...!!!
If the shift detents don't snap the forks in place well, you may need to replace them and the detent springs..

JDBPuller is familiar with your "B" and knows all about what to look for..

Ron..

 

[jd b puller]

Jeremy, make sure to download a free copy of the parts catalog. Google "John Deere Parts Catalog" and go from there. You want PC 330.

Most of the engine parts are unique to the 39/40 year machines.

All the styled blocks will physically bolt to the crankcase, but the head on the 39/40 has a different stud pattern. Some people have eggshaped the holes to make it fit, I've never done it. The water manifold is also different on the 41/46 and the 47/52, not sure about the 39/40, it might be common to the 41/46.

You should be able to safely bore it to accept the newer style pistons, however I don't know if the compression heights of the pistons are the same. The 39/40 block is 9.000" long and had a flat head, whereas the 41-52 blocks are 8.500" long and used the "cyclone" head.

Have fun.