John Deere FFB Grain Drill Question

Hey Forum,

I am trying to repair a frozen feed cup, gate, whole assembly etc. one of the cups is shattered in the middle of the one side. My question is, I have unbolted everything, and there is no way I can remove cup to cup due to everything locked up and wont move, I was wondering, is the square shaft solid all the way down, or is it pieces of square, cup to cup? I am about to cut it, so I can get all 6 cups down for repair, but I might not if its a solid shaft all the way down...


Parts link for reference, the square shaft is #17 on the chart.
 
Hey Forum,

I am trying to repair a frozen feed cup, gate, whole assembly etc. one of the cups is shattered in the middle of the one side. My question is, I have unbolted everything, and there is no way I can remove cup to cup due to everything locked up and wont move, I was wondering, is the square shaft solid all the way down, or is it pieces of square, cup to cup? I am about to cut it, so I can get all 6 cups down for repair, but I might not if its a solid shaft all the way down...


Parts link for reference, the square shaft is #17 on the chart.
If it were me I would cut the square shaft to expedite the repair process. Strictly a guess on my part but thinking the shaft size is the same as the latter 450 drills so JD or a parts yard would be an option to get a coupler. Given the low torque involved a round piece of DOM could be used with holes for set screws but explore the square coupler option first.
 
Fair enough, I am going to assume the middle / 'coupler' is a roll feeder. I'm going to cut it since its quicker, and I can find 5/8 square stock to remake it. I'll post back what becomes of it.
 

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Since the gate and assembly was shattered, I was lucky to get a housing from a suppler that holds old stock, and a new gate and feeder from JD. However, the new feeder/gate is a little off spec compared to the old ones.. ill need to modify the shaft when im looking for something to do over the winter.

Long story short, I used a torch and got it all freed by applying head on each gate until it was orange, due to it being completely rusted. Finally she broke free, got it all freed and nicely moving and dropping seeds as it should. I will confess, a grain drill, and maybe its not just JD for older ones, is the most annoying mechanical thing I have ever worked on... I always needed 3 / 4 hands.

From what I can tell, its a solid shaft all the way down to the middle where the cupper links both, I think. Either its 2 shafts, or one. Better than one per 2 cups..
 
Congratulations on getting stuck/rusty parts freed up.

There are 2 feed cup driveshafts because if you'll notice there is drive chain on each end of the drill.

If only 1 shaft drive chains would bind when curves/corners of field were encountered unless an overrunning clutch was offered which BTW ORC was not offered.

If you read parts descriptions shown in photo below on item 17 it clearly states LH & RH feed cup shafts.
 

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Last edited:
Since the gate and assembly was shattered, I was lucky to get a housing from a suppler that holds old stock, and a new gate and feeder from JD. However, the new feeder/gate is a little off spec compared to the old ones.. ill need to modify the shaft when im looking for something to do over the winter.

Long story short, I used a torch and got it all freed by applying head on each gate until it was orange, due to it being completely rusted. Finally she broke free, got it all freed and nicely moving and dropping seeds as it should. I will confess, a grain drill, and maybe its not just JD for older ones, is the most annoying mechanical thing I have ever worked on... I always needed 3 / 4 hands.

From what I can tell, its a solid shaft all the way down to the middle where the cupper links both, I think. Either its 2 shafts, or one. Better than one per 2 cups..
What is it that doesn't work with the new one? Is the number on the new feeder/gate identical to the old one? A part revision can mean a lot.

There's also a chance the part sat on a shelf forever, because it was a poor casting/stamping/etc. & wasn't going to work right, all that long ago. I've run across a few of those instances ordering NOS parts over the years.

Mike
 
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