John Deere Paint

[RyaninKS]

I am getting ready to paint my 1939 John Deere B and i am looking for the best finish possible using the Paint from John Deere (mainly because i already have it) This tractor isn"t going to see any major work anymore and is going to go to the occasional show with me, so i am really looking for a good finish (i"m not expecting a expo quality resto or anything like that, i just don"t really want it to be to dull, i want it to "POP" alittle bit if i might say.) Anyway heres my few questions.

1. What hardener do you suggest?
2. How many coats of primer and should i sand between coats?
3. How many coats of paint and should i sand between coats?
4. What can i do to insure that my finish doesn"t come out too dull or scratch too easily?

Like i say, the most this tractors going to do is mow my long driveway and maybe rake some alfalfa so i"m not too worried about fighting brush or anything like that, but i don"t want to be afraid of scratching it if i lean against it either.

Any tips or tricks is greatly appreciated!

 

[glennster]

the jd dealer paint is a modifyied alkyd enamel. either get the hardener from the dealer, or you can use the valspar hardener from farm and fleet. i'd recommend getting the hardener and reducer from john deer, the more you stay in the product line, the better chances of a good finish without goofy problems. generally two medium coats of a good epoxy primer followed by a primer surfacer. you will not wet sand the epoxy primer and there is a narrow window to get the surfacer on, depends on whose you use. your surfacer is what you will be block sanding. 320 is a good grit. follow your surfacer recommendation regarding how many coats, wait till dry , they block sand till smooth. you may need to reprime and sand a few times to get it smooth. if its not smooth, it will show in the color coat. for the alkyds, i use 3 to 4 coats. first coat is a light coat (tack coat) just enough to get color on it. let is flash, then apply the next coat getting good coverage. let that flash, if you have real good coverage at this point you can apply the last coat heavier (a wet coat) this will give you a nice finish. do not sand between coats with the alkyd paints.

 

[Art Zerbe]

Good advise glemster.

 

[RandyB(MI)]

You never said whether you have painted before or if this is your first dance? You definately don't want to use the tractor to get your education. By the time you reallize your paint or gun isn't doing what you want , the tractor is done and it isn't pretty. Either practice on something else or at least start your spraying on the cast or non-fussy areas of the tractor. I would say get an old car hood or fender but most people just aren't going to "waste" the good paint doing this. Most of the time a bad / dull / dry spray / scratchy etc paint job is more a result of human error than any fault of the paint. You can go top drawer and still have a mess. Practice before you play. Good luck and post back with your results.

 

[RyaninKS]

I have painted alittle, but nothing fancy. Ive painted afew demolition derby cars and some horse drawn equipment, plus i"ve practiced on afew old hoods and such. All of this is great advice keep it coming!

 

[Horter Restoration]

if you want it to really pop try putting a clear coat product on it. Some of my customers don't want to put on the automotive grade paint and we can doll it up in this manner. we just do it on the hood, grilles, and other tinwork. Just make sure that any dirt specks or imperfections are buffed out before applying the clear. If you cut and buff the clear you better wear your sunglasses when your raking!!!