Jubilee PTO conversion?

[David Wave]

I am a new Jubilee owner. I plan on working the tractor an need it to run "modern" equipment via the PTO. I have been told the stock PTO is 1 1/8 vs the 1 3/8 for most implements today, requiring a conversion.

I found a conversion shaft for about $150, just bolts in.

Or a overrunning coupler, that is 1 1/8 female to 1 3/8 male. About $60.

As I plan on Bush Hogging, among other things, is there any disadvantage to going the coupler-route? What would be the advantage of replacing the whole shaft?

Thanks!

-Dave

 

[R Geiger]

You really should have an overrunning coupler installed reguardless of which shaft you have. At least for bush hogging.

 

[old]

Go with the ORC you need it any how unless you want to end up in a fence or in a ditch etc. Or worse you could end up dead. Since it does not have a live PTO when you use a brush hog the blades will spin on and that in turn will push the whole machine forward another 10-20 feet with the clutch pedal pushed down and that gets people and things hurt

 

[souNdguy]

ditto that. you need an orc no matter what. if your pto shaft is not worn and seal does not leak.. the orc is the cheaper way to go right now. ( seal is only about 13$.. so if it leaks later.. it's not a bad fix.. just got to drain alot of oil..e tc. )

if the shaft is worn or the beairng is worn.. shaft slides in / out up/down/side/side... repalce the shaft assy now and get a proper orc

soundguy

 

[daz]

Skip draining the oil Soundguy. Drop the front end in a ditch and change the seal with the pto still in position.

 

[old]

Easier to back it up on the rear of a trailer and that way you have a place to set a chair so you can sit down and be comfortable doing the work and also have a good semi clean place for the parts and tools LOL

 

[souNdguy]

you guys don't do any reading do ya?

a NAA has 3 sumps, hyds, diffy and tranny.

the pto shaft passes right THRU the diffy and hyds.

ther eis no pointing the nose down, or the rear up.

wen you pull that shaft your diffy and hyd sumps dump.. that will leave you with contaminated diffy oil or an over full diffy sump, and a low hyd sump.

soon your breaks will be wet.

this ain't an 8n..

PLEASE READ UP ON THE MACHINE IN QUESTION BEFORE POSTING INCORRECT ADVICE.

soundguy

 

[souNdguy]

NOOOO.. you guys are passin g off bad advice.

naa is multi sump..snatching the pto shaft dumps the hyds comartment into the diffy... that contaminates the diffy oil AND overfills it.. and makes the hyds sump low...

not good!

this ain't an 8n

soudnguy

 

[Jubilee85 (VA)]

The ORC will be a cheaper route, getting the pin in might be fun but as others have said - the ORC is a must, and you might need to to trim the PTO shaft on both ends depending.Save 90 bucks and be safe!

 

[daz]

Wait. No disrespect but maybe you're not reading what I wrote. Or maybe I'm just plain wrong. What I'm saying if you get the front end lower no fluid would run out of the pto shaft hole when you pull the seal. Don't pull the shaft at all. Remove the seal with the shaft still installed. Then replace the seal. No loss of fluid. There are various ways to remove the seal like drilling a small hole then installing a self tapping screw to pull on. No?

 

[old]

Ah but sound I was not saying any thing about the PTO I was talking about his idea of the ditch which as I said my way is easier. Yes I know the NAA has the 3 sumps

 

[souNdguy]

I read what you wrote...removing the seal like that will be brutal. you will likely spend more time doing it than draining the sumps and pulling the shaft.

seals leak for 3reasons:

1, worn seal

2, bad bearing.. bearing is sloppy which hogs out the seal

3, worn ring the seal rides on.

2&3 can only be replaced with the shaft out, and hard to inspect 2 with the shaft in.

don't try to half-arse the work.. it's a quick job to drain oil, pull a shaft, and repalce it.

if the oil is clean.. drain each sump into a clean pail and pour back in.

I pretty much make it a habit of doing all the pto shafts on my multi sump machines.. can be done in 30 minutes and know the bearing or seal ring is good.

soundguy

 

[souNdguy]

that's doing a disservice.. while you could hork alot and snatch the seal out the arse end.. it's way better to pull the shaft and inspect the bearing and wear ring.

shortcuts are fine.. but we don't need to teach bad habbits.

seals can wear, beairngs can wobble out seals.. and wear rings with grooves can eat seals.

the people who don't know about this need to know what to look for so they can correct it.. not just snatch out a seal and replace one.. as .. if they have a bad bearing or wear ring.. it will eat the new seal fast..

soundguy

 

[old]

Ah but again your missing it. I am not and never was talking in any way about the PTO or the seal or any other part of the tractor I was making a comment about using a ditch and I said use a trailer. so again you are not seeing what I am says which has zero to do with the PTO the tractor or the seal and of course this only works on the N series tractors

 

[souNdguy]

I'm not missing anything.

In this application your comment about using the traier to raise the rear, vs lowering the front simply should not be applied. This si not a repair that raising the rear or loweringthe front is applicable.

the comment in general, for an N series is fine.. but simply does not apply as it was related in this message.

soundguy

 

[old]

Yes sound and I have said it does not work I was making a comment as to what the other guy said about the ditch nothing more and it does not have any thing to do with this tractor. So yes your the one blowing it out of proportion please drop it since this is not getting any place and has gotten to the point it does not matter
Again I was not making a comment about the tractor but a comment about a ditch no tractor in any way has been talked about in this

 

[souNdguy]

so. if it had nothing to do with that tractor or this thread.. why did it appear in this thread.

to a newby reading this.. it might appear that it was being sugested to do this.. especially since another user sugested the same thing.

we need to keep in mind that these messages are stored int he archives. anything not clear is going to confuse newbies down the road.

it's not being blown out of proportion.. I'm addressing the issue of a comment that had no bearing on this thread so as to clarify it.

when you are ready to drop it.. I'll drop it.

soundguy

 

[old]

I made this comment to the other guy not you CHRIS so your the one who need to drop it and now I guess your not going to be one who I think of as a friend since you can not open your eyes and see so I guess your getting close minded in your old age yep you got me mad and once mad I do not forget I made the comment to some one else not to you in the first place

 

[souNdguy]

doesn't matter who the comment was made to.

it served to confuse the thread.

no big deal.. you want to take your ball, and go home and be mad at me and not think of me as a frined because a slightly confusing comment was made...

go for it. no skin off my back.

the comment was confusing as it pertains to this thread. I mentioned that as a clarification. nothing more.. nothing less.

you want to read more into it..that's your deal.

soundguy