Jubilee pto shaft replacement

[Slewis51]

Good afternoon --I'm a new member and am hoping someone can answer my question. I have a Ford Jubilee and need to replace the pto shaft because the splines at the output end of the shaft are damaged. I have ordered a new pto shaft assembly as well as a new "quick release" ORC. From what I've read online, and in the Jubilee service manual, this sounds like s pretty simple job. Drain hyd and diff fluid, pull out old shaft, and slide in new one. Does anyone have experience replacing the shaft? Anything I should expect, or is the job more difficult than it sounds?
Thanks for any thoughts, comments, advice. This is really a great site and I've found lots of great advice already on other issues with my tractor.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Welcome.
It sounds like you have the gist of it.
It really is that easy.

 

[Slewis51]

(reply to post at 14:00:09 06/11/16)

Thanks Ultra! I should get the new parts delivered by late this week and will hopefully get it on then. I think I caused the damage to the shaft by not being careful enough while bush hogging. I raised the mower up very quickly and too high, which put the hog's driveshaft in a bind. I quickly lowered it, but I think that's when the damage was done. From reading on this forum, I think I need to shorten the driveshaft some, and also adjust the stop on the control lever.

 

[markct]

It's even simpler than that, if you park
it on a hill with the back end up then
you don't even need to drain the oil

 

[shaun wallace]

NAAs have 2 compartments 1 for hyd and 1 for r/a. So parking front down will over fill hyd.and leave r/a low.

 

[Slewis51]

(quoted from post at 18:32:15 06/11/16) It's even simpler than that, if you park
it on a hill with the back end up then
you don't even need to drain the oil

Ok, I'll try that. I'm a little leery of draining the hydraulics--just worried air might get into the system and cause a problem. Maybe an unrealistic concern tho. I really appreciate the knowledge of you board members. Thanks again!

 

[pomester]

well - it doesn't have to be that easy - you may find when you remove the four bolts holding the bearing housing to the rear end that the housing is pretty tightly held in the rear end casting - you may need to remove the hitch so you can get to the housing, and then, rather than prying and possibly breaking the casting, use a block of wood and a hammer and try to rotate the bearing housing in the rear end casting - once you get some movement going it's pretty simple to work the assembly out -

if your 'PTO shaft assembly' includes a new bearing and seal you're golden - if not, I'd suggest replacing both -

David

 

[markct]

How do you figure that? If it's two separate compartments then each stays where it is, I know many of these leak between them over the years tho due to wear but if it leaks forward it will leak back when the tractor is on the level. Doesn't have to be parked vertical just a moderate hill will do

 

[showcrop]

2X what MarkCT says. Back end needs, from my experience to be about 10 inches higher than front.

 

[Slewis51]

(quoted from post at 04:34:11 06/12/16)
2X what MarkCT says. Back end needs, from my experience to be about 10 inches higher than front.

I'm going to use the above advice and imagine all will go smoothly. A poster in another forum suggested engaging the pto lever before pulling out the shaft--says that will hold some sleeve in place on the transmission and "prevent it from falling off the shift fork". So I may do that too--doesn't seem like it could hurt.
Again, I thank you all for the help and will let you know how it goes.

 

[markct]

Hmmm, never heard of that, I have had
them out a dozen times over the years,
maybe I just got lucky and never had
this part fall off?

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 15:28:53 06/12/16) Hmmm, never heard of that, I have had
them out a dozen times over the years,
maybe I just got lucky and never had
this part fall off?

It will happen with some models but certainly not the jubes or hundreds.

 

[stumpjumper400]

If the seal is good and it leaks forward when you pull the shaft out then wouldn't extra fluid be trapped in the hydros when you put the shaft back it? Just saying. The seal between the two was good on my 801 and it's not that much younger than a jubilee. If you drain the sumps, it's not a hard task to bleed the hydraulic pump if air gets in. Messy, yes, but not hard. Just a noob with an observation.

Steve

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 18:58:59 06/12/16)
If the seal is good and it leaks forward when you pull the shaft out then wouldn't extra fluid be trapped in the hydros when you put the shaft back it? Just saying. The seal between the two was good on my 801 and it's not that much younger than a jubilee. If you drain the sumps, it's not a hard task to bleed the hydraulic pump if air gets in. Messy, yes, but not hard. Just a noob with an observation.

Steve

Yes it leaks forward if you tip it high enough. If your coffee cup is half full and you tip it 10 degrees how much will pour out?

 

[stumpjumper400]

I was just pointing out that if the seal is good then it won't leak back into the differential as stated after you put the shaft back in and level the tractor. I guess if you knew exactly how much to lift the rear without combining the sumps then your all set. If it can be done. I don't know, I've never done it that way.

Steve

 

[markct]

Do the Jubilee even have a seal? Last
one I had apart to weld a housing only
appear to have a bushing between them

 

[Slewis51]

(quoted from post at 07:33:11 06/13/16) Do the Jubilee even have a seal? Last
one I had apart to weld a housing only
appear to have a bushing between them

Based on the FO-19 shop manual diagram, there is a seal and a bushing at both ends of the shaft. The PTO shaft assembly I ordered from YT says it includes seals and sleeves. I think what I'll do is slope the tractor forward slightly, pull and replace the pto shaft, and then just check my fluid levels .

 

[souNdguy]

Dang this is a long thread for such an easy easy easy repair.

If you run utf in both hyds and rear end, then you park flat, put a pan or bucket under the pto opening, remove 4 bolts, slide the old shaft out. clean the gasket area, put the new shaft and gasket back in.. make sure you don't punch out the seal that is between the compartments.

put the 4 bolts back in and then check hyds and diffy levels, top as needed and go.


this is about a 10 minute repair unless you try to mess it up...

 

[Slewis51]

(quoted from post at 08:32:42 06/13/16) Dang this is a long thread for such an easy easy easy repair.

If you run utf in both hyds and rear end, then you park flat, put a pan or bucket under the pto opening, remove 4 bolts, slide the old shaft out. clean the gasket area, put the new shaft and gasket back in.. make sure you don't punch out the seal that is between the compartments.

put the 4 bolts back in and then check hyds and diffy levels, top as needed and go.


this is about a 10 minute repair unless you try to mess it up...

Soundguy is absolutely dead on--I replaced the shaft yesterday in less than 10 minutes! Parked on a slight slope, easily pulled out the old shaft, and the new one slid right in with just a little wiggling. Lost maybe a quarter of fluid.
Thanks everyone for the advice--this forum is an excellent resource--especially invaluable to a novice tractor owner like me.