Keeping a farm hydrant from freezing

joeysmith

Well-known Member
Lets see/hear your ways of keeping a frost free farm hydrant from freezing
This style
1000019410.jpg

I leave mine on year round to a small tank with a float for the livestock
Been wrapping everything in heat tape then insulation
After that I stack old tires around it an fill it with wood chips.
Wrap the tires with a heavy tarp to block the wind.
Need to redo it this fall an wondering if anyone has a simpler setup
 
The most important thing is a sump that will allow it to drain, but not allow sand in. They will not freeze if they can drain. I make a hole in the bottom of a 5 gal. bucket that the bottom of the hydrant will fit int snugly, then bury the bucket upside down along with the hydrant. You are using your hydrant in place of an automatic freeze proof waterer. Since you are redoing it anyway install a correct waterer along with the hydrant. There are many different types available, and hundreds of thousands of livestock owners have been doing it the correct way for over 100 years.
 
The most important thing is a sump that will allow it to drain, but not allow sand in. They will not freeze if they can drain. I make a hole in the bottom of a 5 gal. bucket that the bottom of the hydrant will fit int snugly, then bury the bucket upside down along with the hydrant.
Im keeping the whole thing from freezing
I leave it on year round
The tires an heat tape work fine was just looking for maybe a better/different solution is all
 
When the hydrant was installed, it should have been dug in deep below the frost line. And the bottom of the hole would have a layer of pea gravel to let the hydrant DRAIN when shut off. If the hydrant is freezing up, its drain is plugged up! When shut off, that hydrant model should drain out? No water to freeze up.
 
Guys
The hydrant does not freeze up if I do turn it off.
It is left on through the winter for livestock water
Im looking at others solutions to keeping the complete hydrant from freezing

Lol
 
Lets see/hear your ways of keeping a frost free farm hydrant from freezing
This style
View attachment 127622
I leave mine on year round to a small tank with a float for the livestock
Been wrapping everything in heat tape then insulation
After that I stack old tires around it an fill it with wood chips.
Wrap the tires with a heavy tarp to block the wind.
Need to redo it this fall an wondering if anyone has a simpler setup
I do not know your location, but it must not be too cold if the stock tank does not freeze solid. Long term it might be less work to build a small permanent shelter around the hydrant. Provide some ventilation in summer to reduce rusting. Keep the heating tapes in place, flowing water can provide some heat, but none when the water is not flowing.

Another long term alternative is to install a livestock water and trench water and electrical directly to it, bypassing the hydrant.

 
In the cold of Minnesota, one needs a different solution from the beginning. So it is difficult to answer your question.

I do see them with heat tape and insulation wrapped over everything, but it’s a real problem when critters don’t drink for long periods, the insulation gets rubbed away, or the power goes off. Also they like to freeze a couple feet deep around the pipe, can’t get heat tape down below the frost line, heat doesn’t travel down very well. Doesn’t take much at all to have problems real quick.

If we know your location a bit, maybe you don’t get to minus 10 and minus 20, and stay frozen all winter long from November into April. In a lightly freezing area I can see more easily getting away with that situation.

Or is this located inside a building, not heated but has some shelter from the weather? Dad kept an open water pipe most of the winter in the unheated barn, but the cattle were in is and a foot or two of manure pack under them threw a lot of heat to keep the barn around 35-40 degrees.

Typically here one would set up a tank and fill the tank with about as much water as the critters will drink in 12 hours. Fill it twice a day. Only need the water running to fill the tank. Or have an energy free earth tube waterer, or a heated waterer fed from pipe under it.

A lot of us are from the more frigid north, and so struggle with your question when we apply it to our back yard situations.

Just like the thread about burying a garden hose, here you need to be 5 foot deep, and 6 foot is needed under a driveway and is better all the way around. When the extended cold snaps come and we haven’t had a lot of snow, you see a lot of backhoes with the tooth on chipping through the frost to dig up a frozen or busted water line. Folk that tried to get away with 4 foot deep pipe…..

Paul
 
In the cold of Minnesota, one needs a different solution from the beginning. So it is difficult to answer your question.

I do see them with heat tape and insulation wrapped over everything, but it’s a real problem when critters don’t drink for long periods, the insulation gets rubbed away, or the power goes off. Also they like to freeze a couple feet deep around the pipe, can’t get heat tape down below the frost line, heat doesn’t travel down very well. Doesn’t take much at all to have problems real quick.

If we know your location a bit, maybe you don’t get to minus 10 and minus 20, and stay frozen all winter long from November into April. In a lightly freezing area I can see more easily getting away with that situation.

Or is this located inside a building, not heated but has some shelter from the weather? Dad kept an open water pipe most of the winter in the unheated barn, but the cattle were in is and a foot or two of manure pack under them threw a lot of heat to keep the barn around 35-40 degrees.

Typically here one would set up a tank and fill the tank with about as much water as the critters will drink in 12 hours. Fill it twice a day. Only need the water running to fill the tank. Or have an energy free earth tube waterer, or a heated waterer fed from pipe under it.

A lot of us are from the more frigid north, and so struggle with your question when we apply it to our back yard situations.

Just like the thread about burying a garden hose, here you need to be 5 foot deep, and 6 foot is needed under a driveway and is better all the way around. When the extended cold snaps come and we haven’t had a lot of snow, you see a lot of backhoes with the tooth on chipping through the frost to dig up a frozen or busted water line. Folk that tried to get away with 4 foot deep pipe…..

Paul
Fair enough
This is southern kansas
It is rare for us to spend a full week below freezing
Will dip down at night but usually warms above freezing during the day
But we do occasionally get a week stretch with wind an never rise above freezing

This hydrant is outside unprotected
The tank is just a small 25 gallon tub with a electric tank heater in it well insulated with half the top covered

Float an short hose going to the tub
The hose an float are heat taped an insulated as well

The tires have worked well for years an ill probably just go back that way just was seeing if anyone else had a creative way of accomplishing the same thing
 
I have a feeling you have already found the best solution for your situation. It works for you and that's all that matters.

You just reminded me I need to rewrap my oil tank line. I had forgotten its looking poorly and I definitely don't want it freezing up again.
 
I have a feeling you have already found the best solution for your situation. It works for you and that's all that matters.

You just reminded me I need to rewrap my oil tank line. I had forgotten its looking poorly and I definitely don't want it freezing up again.
Probably so but you dont know unless ya ask I suppose
 
I am in Kentucky, and 2 times I installed a hydrant, and later replaced it with a cattle waterer. When I had the one tank behind my barn, I filled it daily and used a tank heater, suitable for plastic, in the tank. I had a short 2-foot hose on the hydrant. The calves could not empty the tank in 1 day, but a couple of times they got a hold of the electric extension cord and chewed on it and pulled the heater out into the air. Since the heaters must be submerged, it ruined one. If the temperature is above 34* or so they do not come on. I put concrete blocks in the tank and rerouted the cord. But now I have waterers and like that better. Mark.
 
Guys
The hydrant does not freeze up if I do turn it off.
It is left on through the winter for livestock water
Im looking at others solutions to keeping the complete hydrant from freezing

Lol
So the hydrant portion sticking out of the ground and the hose over to the be valve is freezing ?
 
In the cold of Minnesota, one needs a different solution from the beginning. So it is difficult to answer your question.

I do see them with heat tape and insulation wrapped over everything, but it’s a real problem when critters don’t drink for long periods, the insulation gets rubbed away, or the power goes off. Also they like to freeze a couple feet deep around the pipe, can’t get heat tape down below the frost line, heat doesn’t travel down very well. Doesn’t take much at all to have problems real quick.

If we know your location a bit, maybe you don’t get to minus 10 and minus 20, and stay frozen all winter long from November into April. In a lightly freezing area I can see more easily getting away with that situation.

Or is this located inside a building, not heated but has some shelter from the weather? Dad kept an open water pipe most of the winter in the unheated barn, but the cattle were in is and a foot or two of manure pack under them threw a lot of heat to keep the barn around 35-40 degrees.

Typically here one would set up a tank and fill the tank with about as much water as the critters will drink in 12 hours. Fill it twice a day. Only need the water running to fill the tank. Or have an energy free earth tube waterer, or a heated waterer fed from pipe under it.

A lot of us are from the more frigid north, and so struggle with your question when we apply it to our back yard situations.

Just like the thread about burying a garden hose, here you need to be 5 foot deep, and 6 foot is needed under a driveway and is better all the way around. When the extended cold snaps come and we haven’t had a lot of snow, you see a lot of backhoes with the tooth on chipping through the frost to dig up a frozen or busted water line. Folk that tried to get away with 4 foot deep pipe…..

Paul
I have wondered how so many people believe that it is cheaper to dig down 4ft vs 6ft .
 
So the hydrant portion sticking out of the ground and the hose over to the be valve is freezing ?
With the way I have been doing it it does not freeze
Was just curious if/how others accomplished the same thing
Surly I can't be the only one around that does something similar.


I don't really have an issue with my setup just having a conversation about different ideas is all
Thought I made that clear but sorry for any confusion (y)
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top