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Key-off buzzing sound

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T

TB in MN

Member
Went out to block my clutch per Soundguy's recommendations last night and heard a buzzing sound coming from under the hood. Tractor was off and key was removed (had been off for 24 hours). I disconnected the battery and buzz went away. I removed the battery and connected via jumper cables to get a better look. Buzzing was coming from what I believe was the voltage regulator (box fastened to the inside of the hood).

I had previously thought my battery was nearing the end of its life since it would not hold a charge but now I suspect the buzzing may be draining the battery. Considering I have limited electrical background, please step me through diagnosing this problem.

12V 2N with front mount distributor.

Thank you,
TB in MN
 
Sure looks like an alternator to me.

It could be I misidentified the item as a voltage regulator. The component is in a blue sheetmetal housing with a single wire harness plugged into it. What other clues can I give?

TB in Mn
 
Buzzing component is the rectangular sheet metal component in upper right corner of photo. Back side of Key switch and ampmeter are seen on the left. Battery is removed.

TB in MN
a50777.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:18:41 10/04/11) Buzzing component is the rectangular sheet metal component in upper right corner of photo. Back side of Key switch and ampmeter are seen on the left. Battery is removed.

TB in MN
a50777.jpg
Click to expand...
You probably have the oldest GM alternator, with external regulator pictured. Look like this 10DN?
alt_Delcotron_10DN.jpg
 
That is an old Ford external V.R Alternator if I where you I would bite the bullet and get a Delco 10si and put it on and be done with it. My 841 had one of those on it and when it went bad I just rewired it and installed a Delco 10si and have not looked back. But then I needed to rewire the whole tractor any how so when it went bad I did it all at that time
 
yep.. old style external reg.

IF the alt is good, you could get a new vreg.. might be just a cheap for a 10si alt though

soundguy
 
That regulator could be replaced with a 70s Chrysler single wire voltage retulator. Can use the wires that you already have. The Chrysler regulator has only one wire that goes to the alternator and one coming from the ignition circuit to turn it on. You already have that Ignition circuit wire on the Ford Motorcraft regulator and you can use the existing wire going to the alternator now. These simple regulators have two terminals. One is stapmed IGN and the other is stamped ALT.

I've had one on my old IH backhoe for over 30 years. The original Motorcraft alternator gave out a few montahs ago and I replaced it and still using the Chrysler voltage regulator with the new one.

Zane
 
You can also use the old style Chrysler voltage retulator to excite the Delco 10si alternator instead of the lite or diode.

Zane
 
Not a complete new one just have to remove the wires for the ford type alternator and V.R. then wire up the Delco. Not hard to do if you can do simple wiring. Bob has posted pictures of how it is done so if you look in the archives or maybe even flat out ask for the picture he will most likely post it. For me it was childs play to wire it up but I was an E.T in the Navy
 
Old,
Is this Bob's picture of the Delco 10si alternator wiring you were referring to? I may as well attach it to this thread for future reference.

Thank you,
TB in MN
a50843.jpg
 

Please clue me in in the "little bit more knowledge" part. If it is something that can be shared please share.

Does the connecter and red wire that plugs in the alternator come with the alternator?

Can I find that diode at radio shack or where if not?

Thank you,
TB in MN
 
You have to buy the plug but they are only a couple bucks and the parts store will have them. As for the diode I use radio shack part #276-1661 and they come in a pack f 4 for $2.50 or so. From there it is pretty easy to wire up. I like to save a bit of wire so I wire the wire with the diode right to the ignition side of the coil but you can also go right to the switch
 
OK...Point taken...Filter has likely been there for at least 20 years so next time I fire it up I'll see how hot it gets for curiosity sake. Then I'll remove it before I jinx myself now that you guys have pushed the issue.

TB in MN
 
If you decide to keep the Ford alternator, here's a diagram of a simple way to wire it... Your's may or may not be wired this way...

SimpleFordAlternatorCircuit2.jpg"
 
Ya rubber hose and hot manifold do not mix well then you add the in line filter that all adds up to problems down the road. I charge a case of beer to fix the in line fuel filter problem on tractors and so far I have gotten at least 20 cases to fix the problem they cause
 
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