Knock

[MrMachinist]

I have a 641, maybe. It appears to be a combination of the 600 series. Anyway, it's knocking for about 8 seconds when started, 8 seconds is when the oil pressure registers. It was suggested that I drop the pan, locate the loose bearing and shave a little off the rod cap.

Has anybody ever tried this? With success?

Thanks

 

[ErnieD]

I have a 641, maybe. It appears to be a combination of the 600 series. Anyway, it's knocking for about 8 seconds when started, 8 seconds is when the oil pressure registers. It was suggested that I drop the pan, locate the loose bearing and shave a little off the rod cap.

Has anybody ever tried this? With success?

Thanks

Bad advice. If a spin on oil filter, are you using one with an anti drain back valve? cut an old one open, should be a rubber disk inside.

 

[Lynn Patrick]

"drop the pan, locate the loose bearing and shave a little off the rod cap"
That might work if it was a 1939 Chevy w/babbit rods!

 

[john in la]

Shaving a little off the rod cap and the rod is how a machine shop takes an out of round or way oversized rod and makes it round again so it will have proper oil clearance.

If you need to ask the question I gotta assume you don’t know how to properly do the job never alone have the proper tools to do the job because we are talking ten thousands of an inch.

If you insist on doing a half ask farmer repair you would be better off plastigauging or miking the rod to see how bad it is and replacing the bearing. If the crank is worn down you might be able to cram an over sized bearing in it. But again we are talking ten thousands of an inch so you got to know what you doing or you could easily mess it up worse than it already is.

 

[MrMachinist]

"f you need to ask the question I gotta assume you don’t know how to properly do the job never alone have the proper tools to do the job because we are talking ten thousands of an inch."

You assume wrong. I have been a machinist/ toolmaker/manufacturer for over 50 years. Running my own shop for over 25 years. I asked the question, wondering if anyone on this forum had ever tried it and if they were successful.

There is a saying about people that "assume".

 

[showcrop]

I have a 641, maybe. It appears to be a combination of the 600 series. Anyway, it's knocking for about 8 seconds when started, 8 seconds is when the oil pressure registers. It was suggested that I drop the pan, locate the loose bearing and shave a little off the rod cap.

Has anybody ever tried this? With success?

Thanks

While you have the pan off check the oil pumpm suction tube. They can work themselves partly off.

 

[john in la]

Any machinist/ toolmaker/manufacturer for over 50 years would know you can not take a side grinder to a rod while it is still installed in the engine.
This job requires precision tooling.
So the question would be pointless.

 

[Eman85]

"f you need to ask the question I gotta assume you don’t know how to properly do the job never alone have the proper tools to do the job because we are talking ten thousands of an inch."

You assume wrong. I have been a machinist/ toolmaker/manufacturer for over 50 years. Running my own shop for over 25 years. I asked the question, wondering if anyone on this forum had ever tried it and if they were successful.

There is a saying about people that "assume".

Not something I would recommend but I did it years ago. Performance cars and no money don't work out real well. Spun a rod bearing on a small block Chevy and didn't have money for a rebuild at the time. My Dad was from the era of poured bearings so I pulled the rod cap, polished the crank with emery cloth and ran the rod cap across a file. I could only do the cap because it had rod bolts pressed in the rod. Played the game with a little filing and fitting. Put it all together and it ran for quite a while like that and I wasn't kind to it with a 4 speed. My Dad also had a Buick with a small hole in the piston, drilled and tapped and put a machine screw in it. Lasted quite a while as a daily driver before the piston cracked.

 

[MrMachinist]

Any machinist/ toolmaker/manufacturer for over 50 years would know you can not take a side grinder to a rod while it is still installed in the engine.
This job requires precision tooling.
So the question would be pointless.

Who said anything about a side grinder? Where are you coming up with this stuff? Assuming again?

 

[Jim L WA]

My two cents, says to find the problem with the oil pressure coming up so slow and fix that first. Then instead of tweekiing the rod cap, why not just put new bearings in that rod?

 

[Btzj02]

I am not a machinist but if it were my tractor I would get out a micrometer and evaluate the journal(s) as long as it is apart. Chances are the Crank should be ground and new appropriate sized bearings installed.

 

[Texasmark]

I have a 641, maybe. It appears to be a combination of the 600 series. Anyway, it's knocking for about 8 seconds when started, 8 seconds is when the oil pressure registers. It was suggested that I drop the pan, locate the loose bearing and shave a little off the rod cap.

Has anybody ever tried this? With success?

Thanks

I bought a new Ford V8 in 1988. Didn't have a lot of miles on it when it started valve clatter for a few seconds after an oil change even though I filled the filter with new oil prior to installation. I changed oil types from dino to syn and the problem disappeared....10w-30.

I used Fl-1A filters in that truck and my several Ford tractors at the time....tractors got Dino 15w-40.

 

[bob p mn]

I have never shaved a rod cap but at least 40 years ago I did an inframe on our 961 plastigauged the bearings and the rods were loose, I installed either .001 or .002 undersized rod brgs and new std mains and no troubles all these years later. I believe I also put in a new oil pump. I have never been a big fan of inframing but that time we were short on time and short on money. We don't use it hard any more but for years it was the main tractor, and it is a gasser and my opinion is they are a little more forgiving than a diesel would be.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

I bought a new Ford V8 in 1988. Didn't have a lot of miles on it when it started valve clatter for a few seconds after an oil change even though I filled the filter with new oil prior to installation. I changed oil types from dino to syn and the problem disappeared....10w-30.

I used Fl-1A filters in that truck and my several Ford tractors at the time....tractors got Dino 15w-40.

I purchased a new 1993 Chevrolet 4/4 pickup in November of 1993. Every morning initial startup i would hear about a two second rattle from the main bearings. It called for 5w30 engine oil. On the 2nd. oil change i went to a 10w30 and never heard that rattle again.