Kohler Question

[DownSouth]

I have a Kohler K301S in a Gravely. About a week ago I used it and parked it under cover before a storm blew in. Today I tried to start it with no sucess. I have a tester you put between the spark plug and wire and it's not showing any fire. In the event the tester wasn't working, I did it the old fashion way and grounded the plug and still don't show any spark. I thought it was possible the coil got some water in the top after the driving rain we had so I swapped it out for a known good coil from my Cub Cadet. Still no fire. So now where do I go from here? Not sure what to check next. Can anyone offer a suggestion?

 

[oldtanker]

First go to www.kohlerengine.com and download the manual, it's free.

Check to make sure you have power to the coil and if you do to the points. I'd bet that you have wet points.

Rick

 

[fastsaws]

It may have gotten water on the points. They should be on the same side of the motor as the carb under a small cover held on by 2 screws. Check for water or corrision.

 

[El Toro]

The points are probably wet as mentioned. Which type of coil is used? Hal

 

[DownSouth]

You missed the "s" on the address, it's www.kohlerengines.com
Thanks for that idea, so far I've printed the owners manual and am trying to print the service manual which is 137 pages. Needless to say with dial up, it's a slow go.
I pulled the cover off the points. Dry as a bone, and the points are opening and closing as it turns over. Not sure yet what the points setting should be until the manual gets done loading sometime tonight (I hope)!
The machine was actually under the carport when the storm came, but the driving rain was blowing in so I was concerned that water might be the issue. It still may be, but I'm not sure where yet.
So how do I check for power going to the coil? I have a 12V test light as well as an ohm meter.

 

[DownSouth]

As you said, the cover is on the side with the carburetor. I pulled the cover, but it's dry inside and I turned it over and the points are opening and closing. I want to check the gap, but don't know what the gap should be. Trying to download the manual now, very slow with dial up......but I'm patient.........(no choice)!

 

[DownSouth]

Nope, points are dry and open and close when turning over the engine.
Not sure what type of coil, looks like a Ford coil to me but has no markings. The one I borrowed off my Cub is a Delco Remy, but as I said that didn't help. Even tried the other spark plug wire. No fire at all. I'm wondering if there might be a problem with the ignition switch? I unplugged it and blew out the cobwebs, but still no change. Just turns over but no fire. Oh, and I also switched condensors with the coil too. I'm going to end up with a bloody spot if I keep scratching my head so darn hard! I guess I wouldn't be so confused if I hadn't used it just a week ago.

 

[joe csuti]

First check that coil wired correctly,neg(-) terminal must goto point lead,after that connect test light to pos(+)lead/terminal on coil,connect other lead to battery neg/chassis,sit on tractor as you normally would when starting,turn on ign sw,you should get a light,leave light connected,crank eng,you should get a light,if not then either ign sw bad or if tractor has a ford style sol(2 small posts on coil assembly)contacts for ign coil in same bad,if you don't get a light with ign sw in on/run position I would suspect a bad ign sw,before condeming ign sw ,check all safety sw's on tractor you can find and check wiring harness/behind dash for relay(s) that may be operated by safety sw's

 

[Tom Arnold]

Set the points at 18 thou but before you do that, make sure that you have 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil. If you have a test light, clip the alligator lead to the negative terminal on the battery and touch the probe to the + terminal on the coil. Turn on the key. If the test light lights up, then you have power. If not, then you don't and you need to check for a blown fuse, bad ignition switch, broken wire, wire off, corroded wire, corroded terminal etc.

It could well be that the storm is just co-incidental to the failure and played no part in it.

 

[KEB1]

To expand a little bit on Tom's directions. First, make sure you have power to the (+) terminal on the coil. Assuming you do, connect the test light to the (-) side of the coil and turn the engine over. The light should pulse as the points open and close.

No light: Open coil or wire to points shorted to ground or points not opening. Disconnect wire to points from (-) terminal on coil. If test light shows power at the (-) terminal on coil with wire to the points disconnected, you have a short in the wiring to the points or in the points themselves.

Steady light: Points not closing or wire between coil and points broken. Check to make sure points are actually closing, and that you have continuity between the moving terminal on the points and the (-) terminal on the coil.

Keith