Lapping valves

tom upton

Member
I would imagine there are a lot of folks on here who have lapped a lot more valves than I have. Just wondering what procedure others use? Picture kind of shows how I am doing it. In looking at videos on utube some say you need to check with blueing after, but to me you can see the seat width that is cleaned up pretty clearly after lapping so what would the point be to blue after??
 

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I rigged up an adapter so I can spin the suction cup with a hand drill. For just a routine over haul it only takes a few minutes per hole. I like the idea of using dye on the seat but don't know why you'd put the dye on after you're done.
 
I have a very old hand crank valve lapping tool. The suction cups are dry rotted.
I last used it in 1979 BC.( Before Children.) when I ground the valves on a 1962 XKE
The old man also had a valve grinder and valve seat tool he let me use.
The hand crank lapping tool looks something like those you can find on eBay. I still have the valve lapping compound.
The final test was to install the valve and springs, tip the head on its side and fill with diesel fuel to see if the valve seat leaked diesel fuel.
 
We used a drill motor on the stem to lap them in and would use a pencil mark across the seat in a few places to see that the valve would wipe the mark when turned so you know if a valve is warped or not seating right by not wiping the mark when turned slightly not all the way around turn. I suppose lay out bluing would work to show if a valve was warped or not seating well. Would be easier to see than the pencil mark.
 
Anybody interested in this should shop around. I found this one in the suggestions a little further down the page and it looks like the same thing for 1/3 the money: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRRJKBN...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM
 
I would imagine there are a lot of folks on here who have lapped a lot more valves than I have. Just wondering what procedure others use? Picture kind of shows how I am doing it. In looking at videos on utube some say you need to check with blueing after, but to me you can see the seat width that is cleaned up pretty clearly after lapping so what would the point be to blue after??
you need to get that head into a machine shop. look at them 2 intakes where it was pinned. you need to actually get them seats ground. lapping that is a total waste of time. nothing will become of it . you can spend all day spinning a valve on that and still be no fa
 
you need to get that head into a machine shop. look at them 2 intakes where it was pinned. you need to actually get them seats ground. lapping that is a total waste of time. nothing will become of it . you can spend all day spinning a valve on that and still be no fa
farther ahead. is this how this head was when u took it off ? someone didnt do a very good job there. and as i always say when the valve job is done correctly there is no need to lap valves. that simple.
 
I would imagine there are a lot of folks on here who have lapped a lot more valves than I have. Just wondering what procedure others use? Picture kind of shows how I am doing it. In looking at videos on utube some say you need to check with blueing after, but to me you can see the seat width that is cleaned up pretty clearly after lapping so what would the point be to blue after??
Lapping by hand is easy, effective and not time consuming.

No need for other tools, etc.

No need for blueing. This is a farm tractor, not an Indy engine.
 
Those are the exhaust valves were the cracks have been fixed. Valve seats are up inside the precombustion chamber and are in good condition. Head was done 20 years ago and has worked very well. I am just lapping the seats as I had to pull motor apart because of a broken camshaft. I was worried that a valve might have kissed a piston but it didnt.
 
Those are the exhaust valves were the cracks have been fixed. Valve seats are up inside the precombustion chamber and are in good condition. Head was done 20 years ago and has worked very well. I am just lapping the seats as I had to pull motor apart because of a broken camshaft. I was worried that a valve might have kissed a piston but it didnt.
ooh yes see that now ! thats what i know about an oliver. lol. continue.
 
Thanks for the replys. I actually finished lapping last night albeit kind of late! Once I got the hang of it the hand method seemed to work quite well. You could see the seat width on both the valve and seat and they all came out around .070. I think Dean has done this a few times!
 
Thanks for the replys. I actually finished lapping last night albeit kind of late! Once I got the hang of it the hand method seemed to work quite well. You could see the seat width on both the valve and seat and they all came out around .070. I think Dean has done this a few times!
the intake seats should be narrower than the exhaust seats. rule of thumb 1/16 for intake 1/8 for exhaust. exhaust needs wider for cooling. thats the problem with lapping it just widens the seats when working with used seats. then they have to be positioned on the valve correctly. i used to grind valves before also.
 
I would imagine there are a lot of folks on here who have lapped a lot more valves than I have. Just wondering what procedure others use? Picture kind of shows how I am doing it. In looking at videos on utube some say you need to check with blueing after, but to me you can see the seat width that is cleaned up pretty clearly after lapping so what would the point be to blue after??
The bluing after will BETTER show proper seat contact and also the clearance on both side of the contact, which should be @ the center of the valve face,

Guido.
 
I rigged up an adapter so I can spin the suction cup with a hand drill. For just a routine over haul it only takes a few minutes per hole. I like the idea of using dye on the seat but don't know why you'd put the dye on after you're done.
Because it will show you if you are really done.. You need 100% contact, and the bluing will show if you don't have it,

Guido.
 
The bluing after will BETTER show proper seat contact and also the clearance on both side of the contact, which should be @ the center of the valve face,

Guido.
Don’t know how it’s better ?? It’s usually a pencil. And many times not even that. Just tap the valve in the seat and it leaves a seating ring.
 
A good video tutorial on lapping valves in my opinion was done by Shopdogsam on Youtube. You'll have to go way back to find it, well over a decade. Showed you how to read the contact patch with just lapping compound, no blue dykem necessary.
 
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