Leaking Carburator

[West T]

As part of my continuing efforts to get my TO20 running I finally got the tractor put back together, the battery and cables changed, clutch adjusted, and throttle linkages fairly close to where they need to be. The problem came when I went to start it up. I opened the valve at the bottom of the sediment bowl and fuel began leaking from the bottom of the carburator. The tractor will turn over and once "poped" like it was going to start. To give further detail about the leak, gas was coming out of the overflow hole in the bottom of the carb. When I removed the carb fuel came out of the air hose so it appears that way to much fuel is getting to the carb. Can this issue be corrected by simply getting a rebuild kit and installing it? If that is the case, I read back through some of the posts on carbs and see that one guy purchased a kit at TSC? Can they also be bought at NAPA? Do you know the part #? Or is it best to order them from this site? Is there more than one type of kit? It seemed on ebay the prices and # of parts varied quite a bit on the kits that were supposedly for TO20's? And to continue with the barage of questions are there and tricks to rebuilding a carb as this will be my first. Thanks in advance for your help.

Shawn

 

[jon corbett]

it's just the inlet needle sticking open.its controlled by the float.carefully take carb off,pull carb apart and clean.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Being the lazy person I am, I tend to reach into my tool box and pull out the large plastic handle screwdriver.
Whack the side of the carb and it might stop leaking. This is a result of frustration and has occasionally worked. If you find your self building a carb, make sure your new kit contains a rubber tipped needle for the seat. This has a much better sealing action than a plain steel needle.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Firdt try rapping the carb with a block of wood. Some times the float hangs and doesn"t allow the float valve to shut off. If that doesn"t work, the carb has to come off and the float examined for a leaky float, dirt or sediment in the fuel bowl that doesn"t allow the float to drop, a "not reefed down" float valve, or a maldjusted float setting.
While you are in there, I would strongly advise you to clean the whole carburetor out by soaking it some carb cleaner for at least 24 hours, blowing out ALL THE PASSAGES with compressed air and installing new gaskets, needles, float valve, etc from a carb kit. The vast majority of carbs a very dirty and cleaning is THE most important part of the rebuild.

It"s alsoa good idea to shut off the tank valve when you shut off the tractor. Even new flaot valves can leak a bit.(If you install a new float valbe, really reef down the float valve when you screw it in or it will leak past the gasket and threads.

 

[ROZ]

If you can start the tractor, let is run for 3 minutes. Turn of the main gas valve while the tractor is running. Let it stall out due to no gas coming to the carb. Turn the gas back on and do this process a few more times. This help suck the crud that is in the needle valve. This process has worked for me. Go back about 3 months in this forum. A person explaned the technique aspects as why it works. If this doesn"t work, it time to rebuils the carb

 

[phil(va)]

Carb kits available from this site, TSC, and lots of mail order places like nnalert, Steiner, and Stevens, as well as AGCO (MF) dealer. Don't think NAPA has them. Other than new needle and seat, most likely you will only need gaskets. Thorough cleaning is the key. After you have done one, the next one may only take about 30 minutes. Not difficult. You need a slim 1/4 drive deep well 3/8 socket for the valve in the bottom. No other special tools.