Left Cub Switch on

Chuck59

New User
The switch on the cub was left in the on position for about a week. I have charged the battery which is new ( less than a month old 6 volt) the battery test a full 6 volts since charging. The tractor will not turn over. It tries to turn over for a second but never actually turns over.
 
At 6 volts, your battery is less than half charged. It's also possible you fried your points if they were closed.

6 volt battery charge state.jpg
 
The switch on the cub was left in the on position for about a week. I have charged the battery which is new ( less than a month old 6 volt) the battery test a full 6 volts since charging. The tractor will not turn over. It tries to turn over for a second but never actually turns over.
You have 2 separate issues.
The tractor not cranking, and the switch being left on.
The starting issue could be bad cables, bad ground, bad connections etc. Did you make sure you put the posts on correctly?
Do you have another tractor you could jump it with?
The switch issue is a later problem.
 
The switch on the cub was left in the on position for about a week. I have charged the battery which is new ( less than a month old 6 volt) the battery test a full 6 volts since charging. The tractor will not turn over. It tries to turn over for a second but never actually turns over.
Chuck, on this forum we occasionally come across folks that use what many would call unusual terminology as it applies to the phases of operation of an engine. When you say “turn over” does that mean the engine is not or is barely be turned by the starter? Or do you say that “turning over” is the engine running on it’s own power as “it has started” would be normal terminology? If you experiencing that the starter is not turning the engine properly the switch contacts under the cover on the starter that the battery cable connects to can be problematic. Otherwise, if the engine is being cranked or turned by the starter as normal and will not run/start/fire-up on its own and you haven’t looked at the ignition points that is where I would direct you in that case.
 
I find that sometimes with a completely dead battery that I know was good before I allowed it to die, I have to hit it with my big charger to wake it up. I can then let it charge a long time at low amp input and everything is fine. If I hook a dead battery to my little charger, I get an error message, like F04 (might as well be FU). That's when I hit it with the big charger for a few minutes.
 
Thanks ,
The 3 week old 6 volt battery would not charge after the switch was left on. I exchanged the Battery and it cranks fine now.
You're welcome. As counter-intuitive as it may seem, a 6 volt battery with only 6 volts in it is not healthy. Glad it's turning over now.
 
I find that sometimes with a completely dead battery that I know was good before I allowed it to die, I have to hit it with my big charger to wake it up. I can then let it charge a long time at low amp input and everything is fine. If I hook a dead battery to my little charger, I get an error message, like F04 (might as well be FU). That's when I hit it with the big charger for a few minutes.
Most of the modern battery chargers have a built-in protection feature to detect crossed leads to the battery which also keeps them from turning on if no battery is detected. For them to charge, the battery has to be providing whatever minimum voltage the charger is looking for. Of course, a totally dead battery will fail that test. The little jump-starters have a similar feature that keeps them from working without a partly charged battery. (I have one of them with an override button. It will jump a magneto equipped tractor with no battery.)
 
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