Left Rear axle 9N

Squeak

Member
Any hints on checking the ring gear for the rivets? Do these steps sound right?
1) support left side
2)remove wheel (arrrggg)
3)pull axle
4) remove trumpet
5) ?
YT doesn't list parts for replacing lost rivets or do they special order them?
 
Squeekie......what'd I tell you? CHN Ford dealers have special rivet replacement bolts. YT is NOT a Ford dealer. .......sheesh, respectfully, Dell
 
CNH stands for Case New Holland. Ford became New Holland sometime in the late 90's. Later Case bought New Holland. CNH caries OEM Ford replacement parts. I have a 9N differential if you want one.
 
If you have the lifting capacity, there's no need to pull the axle. You can remove the axle, brake drum, trumpet, etc. all as a unit.
 
Squeekie.........Port Orchard, eh? Did you know our host, Yesterdays Tractors, is in Chimacum? The Hood Canal floating bridge is fixed now. Brim Tractors in Mt Vernon is the headquarters of all wet-side Ford tractor stores (6). I'm near Roy, at the foot of Mt Rainier, on the Ft Lewis boundary. ......Dell
 
Dell, I thought he was in Pt Townsend or is just the parts store there? Got the ring gear done. Those bolts are $ 23 EACH!! I put in new ribbets. I don't mind paying for good stuff, but I ain't sending all the kids through school.
 
(quoted from post at 00:14:38 06/06/09) Dell, I thought he was in Pt Townsend or is just the parts store there? Got the ring gear done. Those bolts are $ 23 EACH!! I put in new ribbets. I don't mind paying for good stuff, but I ain't sending all the kids through school.

I would love to see a pictorial, and tutorial, of replacing the rivets.
 
Aw Dayum. I already goter done. I could explain it to you if you want. You need an anvil or swaging block to pound on. A good ball pein hammer. I use a 32oz. cuz a want the hammer to do the job-not my arm. A drift pin about 7/16". You can do it cold. The side that has the spyder is the side that the head of the rivet is on. I highly recommend you remove the spyder. I used an impact wrench. They are on tight.Now let me tell you, I"m no expert. I have never done this before, but I can rivet and weld. Ya ready?
1) Place the assy on the anvil so the head of the rivet is down. You need a steel block that will fit between rivet and anvil with a little clearance between gear and anvil. Opposite the steel block put a hardwood block so the gear fits on it. Take time for this cuz you will be doing this 12 times.
2) I used a 4" grinder with a thin cutting wheel to remove the rivets. Be careful cuz you can nick the housing.
3) Tap the rivet out. Look in the hole. If the housing and the ring are exactly, dead nuts on alignment, you are in luck. .
4) If the holes are in line, rivet
it. If not, all the rivets need to be removed. Center punch next to the mating holes for reference.Do not make the rivet tight at this time. You are keeping things lined up.
5)RIVETING- Put rivet in hole.The head will be in the counterbore. Make sure the head is tight against the steel block. Have someone hold assy so it doesn"t move around. Using the flat side of the hammer hit the rivet SQUARE a few times. You are expanding the shaft in the hole. I would highly recommend you get a pin that will keep the adjacent hole in line. Keeping them in alignment with rivets doesn"t work very well cuz the rivet is a little smaller that the hole.
Set 11 rivets (only snug). Keep the pin in the hole so you can keep them in line. When you have snugged 11 rivets in a torquing pattern, you finish the riveting. Expand the rivet until it is tight. Using the ball, start rounding the rivets over. If they are all TIGHT, set the last rivet. Again, this is how I did it. Others may have other ideas and I would agree with them. If you any trouble, just remember; holes must stay in alignment, and the rivets must be tight.Good luck! You may call if you need help.360-871-3180
 
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