How am I supposed to remove these arms? I
removed the 2ea bolts from each arm.
Softly hit each with a hammer but no
movement.
cvphoto3752.jpg
 
I removed them from my TO-35. They were a BEAR to get off. Repeated heating with an oxy/acetylene torch and a beatng with a two pound hammer. Penetrating oil at the end of each night you're working on them :) Hope you have better luck than I did.
 
I don?t have any heat to put on them just penetrating oil. My right side arm is bent and I was wanting to change it. Will have to find something. Thank
you for your input.
 
(quoted from post at 16:33:19 05/05/20) I don?t have any heat to put on them just penetrating oil. My right side arm is bent and I was wanting to change it. Will have to find something. Thank
you for your input.

I see a slight curve in the right and what looks like a casting defect in the left.
Unless its bent enough to affect adjustment it wont change anything. The three point linkages are forgiving and adjustable.
The ends look symmetrical in location to the axle. Those castings were not perfect.
There may be something I'm not seeing.
 
(quoted from post at 16:33:19 05/05/20) I don?t have any heat to put on them just penetrating oil. My right side arm is bent and I was wanting to change it. Will have to find something. Thank
you for your input.

I see a slight curve in the right and what looks like a casting defect in the left.
Unless its bent enough to affect adjustment it wont change anything. The three point linkages are forgiving and adjustable.
The ends look symmetrical in location to the axle. Those castings were not perfect.
There may be something I'm not seeing.
 
It is not bad bent but I wanted to change it since I will have it apart. It has not ran in 10 yrs and I wanted to clean the pump and casing out before I start
it.
 
(quoted from post at 11:24:50 05/06/20) I got the left hand side off with lots
penetration oil and a 6lb hammer. Right
side is giving a fit to remove.

When you reinstall try to get them to slide on snug but you shouldn't have to beat them on. I know they are splined but don't know if they are also tapered.
Using an ant-seize compound wouldn't hurt.
Its like anything metal on metal. If you have to beat it on with a hammer you don't want to be the guy that takes it off.

Your initial approach of not wanting to hit it too hard says your not a hammer mechanic. I understand sometimes having to Use extream measures to remove something like that.
Heat would help but you don't have that. It would take a lot of heat before it would get very hot.
I have used charcoal on stuck together p.t.o. shafts.
With u-joints removed.
 
Not tapered, but they have a machined key so they only go on when clocked correctly. Being that they are splined, they are tight fitting when new. Add some 60 years of corrosion, and you really can have a tight fit. The heat would expand the arm on the shaft, breaking the grip rust has. Without heat, it'll just take repeated application of some rust-bust and hitting with a hammer to dislodge it.
 
Do a search for
How to dismantle your Ferguson TE20 Hydraulic Lift Cover

and this guy will show you how to do it
 
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