Little advice needed.

[farmalldave]

How many ft lbs are needed for the nut that holds the governor gear on inside the front plate.

 

[old]

How many ft lbs are needed for the nut that holds the governor gear on inside the front plate.

What tractor?? The torque isn't the same across the brands of tractors

 

[farmalldave]

How many ft lbs are needed for the nut that holds the governor gear on inside the front plate.

Farmall 806 with c301

 

[JIM MN]

What size nut are you torquing?

 

[farmalldave]

What size nut are you torquing?

17.42mm

 

[Janicholson]

That would be 11/16", but the question is not the head size, but the thread size. Torque specs are for thread size and pitch, as well as the material and heat treatment of that material. From charts 65 ft pounds is reasonable. There is likely a torque spec in a repair manual!!!! Jim

 

[Brown David]

Clarity is important.

 

[farmalldave]

That would be 11/16", but the question is not the head size, but the thread size. Torque specs are for thread size and pitch, as well as the material and heat treatment of that material. From charts 65 ft pounds is reasonable. There is likely a torque spec in a repair manual!!!! Jim

Ok I have the shop manual just don't see anything about the castle nut torque specs . I found spec's on everything but that. So torquing it to 65lbs should work right?

 

[rustred]

Ok I have the shop manual just don't see anything about the castle nut torque specs . I found spec's on everything but that. So torquing it to 65lbs should work right?

Tighten it with a 1/2 inch ratchet to where u think it’s good. Then check it with the torque wrench and see what it says. Myself I would go by my feel.

 

[used red MN]

Tighten it with a 1/2 inch ratchet to where u think it’s good. Then check it with the torque wrench and see what it says. Myself I would go by my feel.

I really have a space reserved for those that do mechanical work but just don’t have the experience to go with how it feels for it being tight enough. It must be pure torment not knowing what is likely tight enough for the bolt to maintain tension when a torque is not provided.

 

[farmalldave]

I really have a space reserved for those that do mechanical work but just don’t have the experience to go with how it feels for it being tight enough. It must be pure torment not knowing what is likely tight enough for the bolt to maintain tension when a torque is not provided.

I figured it out . Now I'm trying to figure out the timing of the crankshaft pulley.

 

[used red MN]

I figured it out . Now I'm trying to figure out the timing of the crankshaft pulley.

Just FYI, that was meant with sincerity. I suppose I run the gamut in my replies, it is probably is difficult to tell which side of the foul line I’m aiming for sometimes. What about the timing of the crankshaft pulley timing.? There is a key for the cam gear in the crankshaft snout. That keyway should have a key that also fits in the pulley groove. Align them and put the pulley on.

 

[farmalldave]

Just FYI, that was meant with sincerity. I suppose I run the gamut in my replies, it is probably is difficult to tell which side of the foul line I’m aiming for sometimes. What about the timing of the crankshaft pulley timing.? There is a key for the cam gear in the crankshaft snout. That keyway should have a key that also fits in the pulley groove. Align them and put the pulley on.

Its ok I appreciate all the help. I'm learning I love working on tractors just get confused sometimes. I have the giant book with all manuals in it so I try to find help from it but sometimes it doesn't help. So Im currently stuck on moving forward because I don't want to resplit this tractor again. I timed the cam gear and the main crank gear. I also made sure the number 1 cylinder was tdc before I installed the cam gear to line up with the crank shaft gear . Finding the little punch out on those gears were easy. The governor gear and the gear between that gear and the crank didn't have any markings on them. I cleaned them and still didn't see any. The front cover is on and I noticed the two belt crank pulley has a raised bump on the top of the pulley. I also noticed the front plate has a stud with a pointed end to it. My question is do I have to align the pulley with the raised bump with the pointed stud on the front plate. The engine is a c301 gas 806. Any guidance would be great .

 

[farmalldave]

Its ok I appreciate all the help. I'm learning I love working on tractors just get confused sometimes. I have the giant book with all manuals in it so I try to find help from it but sometimes it doesn't help. So Im currently stuck on moving forward because I don't want to resplit this tractor again. I timed the cam gear and the main crank gear. I also made sure the number 1 cylinder was tdc before I installed the cam gear to line up with the crank shaft gear . Finding the little punch out on those gears were easy. The governor gear and the gear between that gear and the crank didn't have any markings on them. I cleaned them and still didn't see any. The front cover is on and I noticed the two belt crank pulley has a raised bump on the top of the pulley. I also noticed the front plate has a stud with a pointed end to it. My question is do I have to align the pulley with the raised bump with the pointed stud on the front plate. The engine is a c301 gas 806. Any guidance would be great .

 

[used red MN]

It’s ok I appreciate all the help. I'm learning I love working on tractors just get confused sometimes. I have the giant book with all manuals in it so I try to find help from it but sometimes it doesn't help. So Im currently stuck on moving forward because I don't want to resplit this tractor again. I timed the cam gear and the main crank gear. I also made sure the number 1 cylinder was tdc before I installed the cam gear to line up with the crank shaft gear . Finding the little punch out on those gears were easy. The governor gear and the gear between that gear and the crank didn't have any markings on them. I cleaned them and still didn't see any. The front cover is on and I noticed the two belt crank pulley has a raised bump on the top of the pulley. I also noticed the front plate has a stud with a pointed end to it. My question is do I have to align the pulley with the raised bump with the pointed stud on the front plate. The engine is a c301 gas 806. Any guidance would be great .

It been to long since I looked at one of the C-301 engines we had in our 715 combines. I found an article that says there is a steel ball imbedded in the pulley at TDC and degree “tics” come off of that stamped in the pulley. So if you are looking to place it at TDC you would align it to the pointer. None of this makes a difference when you put the pulley on the key aligns it. I can’t guarantee that you have the crank/camshaft at the right spot to time the distributor, you will have to check the valves for that. Number 1 cylinder on compression with both valves closed, and number 6 on overlap. That means the exhaust valve is coming closed and the the intake opening the same amount.
I would suggest you place other questions on the project on the Farmall and IH forum in the Manufacturers sections. There will be more viewing there with knowledge on this tractor and engine.

 

[stevieb49829]

In your second photo, the bump on the damper is accompanied by degree markings. With a timing light, and the engine running, you can adjust the distributor to the specs for advance on that engine. As used red suggests, you need to get the piston at TDC (the bump and pointer will be lined up) on the compression stroke, to get your rotor in the distributor pointing at the #1 plug wire in the distributor cap. Be aware that the piston can be at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke too, so you have to assure which stroke you are on by the position of the valves/lifters. You may know all this already, but some don't. steve

 

[farmalldave]

In your second photo, the bump on the damper is accompanied by degree markings. With a timing light, and the engine running, you can adjust the distributor to the specs for advance on that engine. As used red suggests, you need to get the piston at TDC (the bump and pointer will be lined up) on the compression stroke, to get your rotor in the distributor pointing at the #1 plug wire in the distributor cap. Be aware that the piston can be at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke too, so you have to assure which stroke you are on by the position of the valves/lifters. You may know all this already, but some don't. steve

I will check that. Thanks

 

[rustred]

I will check that. Thanks

and to do that you get the mark lined up at tdc which is the dot. then you give the distributor a slight turn in direction of rotation. then you put a small piece of paper inbetween the points. then turn the dist. opposite of rotation which is advancing the spark,... as soon as u can pull the paper out tighten the dist down and you are statically timed. thats all there is to it, no timing light or test light is even needed to set timing. but to check the timing advance yes you need a timing light. that is why i give this procedure, as many have no timing lights or test lights, then they think they got to go run out and buy a timing light. using paper sets the timing exacly like the light, and i have rechecked it with a timing light also and bang on. tryed true hands on and no bsing procedure. none this timing by ear stuff either.

 

[Biz]

What did you figure out for the torque spec? You know, for the next guy who's looking...

 

[farmalldave]

and to do that you get the mark lined up at tdc which is the dot. then you give the distributor a slight turn in direction of rotation. then you put a small piece of paper inbetween the points. then turn the dist. opposite of rotation which is advancing the spark,... as soon as u can pull the paper out tighten the dist down and you are statically timed. thats all there is to it, no timing light or test light is even needed to set timing. but to check the timing advance yes you need a timing light. that is why i give this procedure, as many have no timing lights or test lights, then they think they got to go run out and buy a timing light. using paper sets the timing exacly like the light, and i have rechecked it with a timing light also and bang on. tryed true hands on and no bsing procedure. none this timing by ear stuff either

What did you figure out for the torque spec? You know, for the next guy who's looking...