Loader valve

[(Chris)]

Anyone convert an old loader valve setup to the cheap remotes available on some websites like the one pictured?

 

[Jim.ME]

Anyone convert an old loader valve setup to the cheap remotes available on some websites like the one pictured?

That just a directional hydraulic valve set up to be operated with a remote mounted joystick controller. Not all valves will accept that controller set up without fabrication. You still need hoses and remote couplers. Unless there was a very good reason to use the remote controller (the cables can cause problems as they wear and/or get moisture inside them. I would mount the valve where it can be operated with the original levers and use longer hoses from the valve to the remote couplers.

 

[(Chris)]

My original valve setup doesn’t allow me to get on or off that side of the tractor. I was hoping this was a good solution to the problem.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Looks to me like you would need to totally saw off all that existing valve support and still won't have all that much room to climb on and off. I can think of a few different possibilities, but it would depend on your skill level, what you're willing to do work wise, and maybe a few more considerations. The cable controlled setup would be my LAST recommendation. It looks like the supply and return lines probably come from remote valve couplers?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Longer houses from the front so they can be routed better down out of the way to the existing valve but attached the valve to the fender out of the way would be my plan

 

[(Chris)]

The hoses come from the spool valve which is another issue I have posted. I asked for a drawing for a power beyond plate to see if it mounts to the top of the spool valve for the loader but keeps the function of the spool valve. Currently my loader is piped to the spool valve.
I have the equipment and skills to fabricate.

 

[Jim.ME]

My original valve setup doesn’t allow me to get on or off that side of the tractor. I was hoping this was a good solution to the problem.

To me, it is not uncommon for a loader tractor (or loader) to have access only on one side. If you really want to move it, I agree with Fixingfarmer, longer front hoses (down to or under the footrest with protection for them) and move the valve back between the seat and fender. Cables can give trouble on a cab tractor and even more on an open station. JMHO

When you say remotes most associate that with the valve(s) and quick couplers used to operate cylinders or motors mounted on implements (remote mounted). It appears you are asking about a loader control valve which is powered from the remote quick couplers, not remotes.

 

[DanielW]

With the right hoses, PB valve, etc., it's certainly movable - either by using the existing loader valve bank or another cable/remote controlled like you show (could also consider electric - but you'd want to go with proportional controls so you can feather it a little). I used a setup just like you show to relocate a valve bank on my bale wrapper. Easy to work with- just have to get the cables adjusted right.

More food for thought, however: On one of my loaders I did exactly the opposite of what you're considering: I moved the loader valve to about where yours is (it was further forward). It eliminated access from that side, but it was still a net gain (in my opinion). Many (most?) tractors only have access from the left side anyway, and my valve's old location more forward made it so you really have to lean over were are practically off the clutch when doing loader work. Hard for finicky loader work where some finessing is involved. You want the loader valves to be easily & comfortably accessed without having to reach/stretch too much. Sometimes you may want to lean over to the left to get a good view while doing certain loader operations. Sometimes you may want to lean to the right. And sometimes you may want to be standing. You want the valve to be comfortably reached from a centred sitting position, but also within easy reach if leaning left, right, and standing. All the time while still allowing your to access the clutch/inching pedal. Your current valve position looks about perfect for that.

 

[(Chris)]

I used a setup just like you show to relocate a valve bank on my bale wrapper. Easy to work with- just have to get the cables adjusted right.

Did you use one of these inexpensive cable valves from the web? If so, has it been a reliable option?

 

[DanielW]

Did you use one of these inexpensive cable valves from the web? If so, has it been a reliable option?

Mine was from Princess Auto - which is kind of like a Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight. It was certainly a cheapo valve, but works just fine. I always use cheap Princess Auto/Vevor valves for any of my hydraulic shenanigans - all with no issue. The only problem with some cheap valves is that they're often made in China where BSP threads are the norm (instead of ORB or NPT). No problem with BSP, just slightly less common to find a hydraulic shop that stocks BSP ends for the hoses they make. Another concern is that for a few sizes, the BSP and NPT threads are very close in diameter and pitch. Make sure you pay attention to what your valve has so you don't accidentally thread NPT into BSP and strip something.

As mentioned above - if using the cable setup like you have shown, it's a bit finicky to get the cable adjusted exactly right so it centred and has full stroke either direction. But once adjusted with the jam nuts set, you should be golden. You'll like going to the single joystick valve - once you get used to a single joystick loader you'll wonder why you put up with a dual-lever setup for so long. If possible, get one specifically meant for loaders as it will have a float position as well. Not necessary, but nice to have.

 

[m16ty]

I don’t like cables in general, they can be hard to adjust and don’t last very long if out in the weather.
Sometimes cables are necessary, but it situations like this is can just over complicate things. While I can squeeze into my loader tractor from the right side, it’s designed to enter and exit on the left. Most of my tractors only have steps and handholds on the left side.

 

[(Chris)]

I really appreciate everyone’s input. That is what makes these forums great. I think I am going to leave well enough alone for now.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I really appreciate everyone’s input. That is what makes these forums great. I think I am going to leave well enough alone for now.

I have used dozens of the P40 valves and they work fine. BSP is the standard in just about every part of the world EXCEPT the United States. You are going to need port adapters for whatever valve you use and BSPP port to male JIC is readily avaiible for about $7 each. Non-problem solved.

TOH

9002-08-06 | 1/2" JIC Male x 3/8" BSPP Male

Check out the deal on 9002-08-06 | 1/2" JIC Male x 3/8" BSPP Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Did you use one of these inexpensive cable valves from the web? If so, has it been a reliable option?

I don’t know about inexpensive but my whole lifetime the jd 2555 at my house has had a similar setup cable joystick over hydraulic I think I rebuilt the top once about 2010 it works fine never have had to replace cables. If you are concerned about the quality buy 2.

 

[ss55]

My original valve setup doesn’t allow me to get on or off that side of the tractor. I was hoping this was a good solution to the problem.

When the loader is off the loader tractor do you get on or off the right side of that tractor very often? I never did, maybe it was just habit, but the brake pedals were usually still in the way too.

 

[(Chris)]

I haven’t removed the loader since owning this tractor. I do not have a farm. I have 7 acres and I use the tractor to brush cut and move stuff around with the loader. Sometimes when I am cleaning up in the woods I get into a situation where I can’t get off on the left and have to climb off and back on, on the right because of obstacles.