Log Splitters: What's a 5-Ton Difference?

[RedMF40]

Ok, I split all my wood by hand. I did rent a log splitter once from the local hardware, can't say I enjoyed the experience. Still, I think a machine like that is probably in my future.

On the used market, a 22-ton unit, well-known brands, come up for sale occasionally and priced about one third of new. They're often in very good shape.

Rarely does a 27-Ton or 33-Ton unit come up for sale. My question is pretty simple: Is that more powerful machine really going to make that much of a difference? And in what way? Will a 22-Ton machine get stuck?

I appreciate any real-life experiences since my time with a log-splitter has been pretty minimal. As long as my body holds out, right now I think I'm faster than a log-splitter.

Gerrit

 

[grizz02]

WE split 2 cords 4hrs 27 ton splitter, 16in pine mostly

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Whatcha ya splitting? Oak, pine, hedge???

 

[Sean Feeney]

If your doing it by hand now 22 ton would be fine, you must already know theres some real ugly pieces crotch etc...
to stay away from.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Unless you are splitting gnarly hardwood you shouldn't need that big of one. I have a 26 ton and the only time it slows down is on a hickory crotch log. Splitting straight grain wood I think half would be good enough.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I have a 34 ton splitter from Northern Tool,heavy duty built wouldn't want anything less.I do split a lot of tough wood but that will burn the best most times.Think NT calls it a North Star,quiet running easy starting Honda motor,had it 5 years no problem

 

[Steve in VA]

I have a 22 bought from TSC years ago and
have had 0 issues. It may slow down on
really tough wood but works its way
through. If I were in the market now
however. I would likely go for a 3 pt
mount that runs off tractor hydraulics.
I've used one and really liked it. Plus, 1
less engine to maintain.

 

[Bob Harvey]

Ole Schmit ! You guys must have some NASTY wood. I use a 5 ton electric on our wood (mostly Douglas Fir). If we get a round that is all large knots - we give it 1 try and move on. Gotten tired of the hassle of getting the wood, am currently working on getting a propane fired replacement. It will take time to 'pencil out', but I finally admitted age has had an effect !

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks for the replies, sounds like I could get away with a 22-ton machine. For my wood, it's a mixed bag. Some comes from tree companies--locust, oak, poplar, maple. What I cut myself consists mainly of ash from the many dead trees around here now. I find it splits pretty easily. I do have large pieces that I've set aside, too tough and gnarly to take on by hand. My shop stove can handle much larger wood so sometimes I chainsaw that down to size.

I like the idea of using my tractor and 3 pt hitch. Right now it's plumbed for the front loader which I use a lot. Not sure how to go about adding plumbing for a splitter or if it's even possible. That'll be a topic for another day.

Gerrit

 

[Charles in Aus.]

I use an electric hydraulic splitter as well Bob .
I find I can split wood all day using it , no engine noise helps a lot with fatigue . I split Blue gum and Black or White Wattle , gum is hard and stringy but the machine slides through it well . The cycle time is short which is convenient .
It won't split crotches or really knotty wood but I have so much I just avoid these logs and use them for outside fires .

 

[Phil-mar Farms]

When I was heating with wood I would get semi load of reject
logs Logs that werent good enough for the sawmill or the fire
wood processor. They ran pretty much to the large size. At
first I thought I should split the chunk in half then quarters
then eighths so that all looked the same. But I realized I was
just burn it not look at it. So on the big rounds I would slab the
piece all the way around. The next round split off the points.
That would leave a chunk to halve or quarter

 

[timcasbolt]

(quoted from post at 18:50:05 07/03/21) Thanks for the replies, sounds like I could get away with a 22-ton machine. For my wood, it's a mixed bag. Some comes from tree companies--locust, oak, poplar, maple. What I cut myself consists mainly of ash from the many dead trees around here now. I find it splits pretty easily. I do have large pieces that I've set aside, too tough and gnarly to take on by hand. My shop stove can handle much larger wood so sometimes I chainsaw that down to size.

I like the idea of using my tractor and 3 pt hitch. Right now it's plumbed for the front loader which I use a lot. Not sure how to go about adding plumbing for a splitter or if it's even possible. That'll be a topic for another day.

Gerrit

ere's a link to an 8 minute video I did when I was getting ready to sell my woodsplitter. It answers a lot of your questions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYauMBbj9bk&t=269s

If the link doesn't work, go to youtube.com and type in my name.

 

[buickanddeere]

Elm has stopped my 22 ton several times in the twisty stuff .

 

[Russ from MN]

My shop built tractor mounted splitter only calculates out to about 12 tons, and it has split any wood we have, and we have elm! Our JD 4600
develops 2,500 psi and I used a 3.5 dia cylinder, for more speed. I suspect the ton ratings of splitters is like Craftsman horsepower! I
split most of the ash and birch by hand because I'm faster, just like you! Any wood that doesn't split easily I set aside, and them we use
the hydraulic.

 

[Russ from MN]

Picture of the splitter I built.

 

[Butch(OH)]

I have owned a 22 ton Husky from TSC for
10 years, all hardwood and some pretty
nasty stuff now and then. I have managed
to stop it just a couple times. I have no
need for more tonnnage. I upgraded the
engine to a Yanmar diesel a few years ago
and upped the GPM of the pump at the same
time for more speed but pressures remain
the same as OEM. The TSC splitters to
avoid are the 22s with a vertical shaft
B&S engine. There was lots of starting
troubles with that engine.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 19:43:51 07/03/21) Ole Schmit ! You guys must have some NASTY wood. I use a 5 ton electric on our wood (mostly Douglas Fir). If we get a round that is all large knots - we give it 1 try and move on. Gotten tired of the hassle of getting the wood, am currently working on getting a propane fired replacement. It will take time to 'pencil out', but I finally admitted age has had an effect !

I don't think any fir can possibly compare to Elm or some of our other hardwoods. The only Douglas Fir I have experience with is lumber but it seemed a lot like our eastern Spruce or Hemlock to me. Some woods are easy to split, like the Poplars, Birches and Ash. Others like Hard Maple, Ironwood and Oak can get gnarly and difficult and some like Elm and Locust can try your patience and splitter.

I use a 27 ton Honda powered unit that Troybilt offered through Lowes 15 or so years back. I've got wood that will stop it. I'd love a heavier duty, faster cycling unit from American or similar, but I got this for something like $600.00 because it was a return due to a leaky hose fitting. What I'd replace it with (if I had $$$) would run around $5K today! I can live with what I have!

 

[Billy NY]

I can tell you the tale of 2 splitters, both Huskee (SPEECO), one a 28 ton the other a 35 ton. In the larger wood, 24
diameter Elm, the 35 ton has a noticeable advantage, however not much would stop the 28 ton. Exception was a 24 block of Elm
that had a grain like a basket weave. I had thought after kicking down in the low stage (2 stage pump) it would push through
like it has done many times before, not this time. The welds on the cast base plate at the end of the beam failed, (no
penetration to the base metal). So the base almost peeled off the beam and the darned wedge did push in, but the wood actually
twisted it to the point it is now a wall hanger ! I was never known to be the type that tears up things, even an anvil, 'cept
this time, thinking it would go through like so many other times previously in difficult wood.

So the 28 ton splitter certainly had the power, however this block should have been ripped 1st or skipped. I've never seen a
block of elm so interwoven, Elm is an extremely strong type of wood (Ulmus Americana). Same log, everything else did split,
just not this block. I was fortunate to find a low use, (sat more than used) 35 ton Huskee (their tonnage ratings- who really
knows what it is) for $1200, and my log cradle bolted up, and my good friend had a 4 way wedge for this model by mistake, so
it worked out well to get this 2nd one the 35 ton. Only hitch is the exhaust blows right at you. I should be able to rig up
something to pipe it back the other way. I've processed many many cords of non-punked or aged dead elm, most fresh still after
dying off. Seems to burn better, but will process much easier if you let it age or block up same and let age. Tough and takes
more time when fresh, but still leaves a nice bed of coals consistently.

There is no doubt a 22 or 27/28 will handle most wood with no issue. If you need to process large diameter, depending on the
species, the heavier splitter no doubt is better. For example, sometimes you'll send the wedge through gnarly sections of wood
and it shears instead of splits, the 35 ton will shear more, (obviously not done intentionally). So there is a clear power
difference, but overall, if the 22 is common and a good deal, don't wait, better to have one than not. By chance you think you
need bigger for larger wood, you can upgrade at your leisure. I'm avoiding larger wood if I can, had to use the backhoe bucket
to raise them onto the splitter, makes a lot of firewood, but not easy to handle.

 

[Billy NY]

That was a good deal, my friend has that one, works just fine, but I prefer a full beam type model myself.
I'm in for $2200 both splitters, and given I've got help at times when processing, 2 will go faster. Sure beats the maul or
what have you do to manually, which I never minded until the impact was too much for a couple of key joints, wrist and
shoulder. I still cannot believe how many splitters there are out there from base models to higher production ones before you
get into processors.

 

[Dusty MI]

I saw one once that was a large cone snapped screw that you bolted to the drive wheel of your car, and then jacked that wheel of the ground, then started the engine, put in in gear, and split wood ,by pushing the side of a stick/block wood onto that screw and letting it turn onto that large screw.
Didn't look vary safe to me.

 

[dpendzic]

I have had a 22 ton from Northern hydraulics for over 15 years--very rarely does it stall out--then i knock the wood loose and split from a different direction---its plenty powerful enough for my use.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 14:12:53 07/04/21) I saw one once that was a large cone snapped screw that you bolted to the drive wheel of your car, and then jacked that wheel of the ground, then started the engine, put in in gear, and split wood ,by pushing the side of a stick/block wood onto that screw and letting it turn onto that large screw.
Didn't look vary safe to me.

It's called a "Stickler" and is one of those tools that gets a bad rep, usually from people who've never used one, because it looks unsafe. Yes, you can get hurt if you don't have your brain in gear. Lubing your brain with booze is not recommended! But a lot of people have used them without losing an eye or being crushed or getting herpes. They came along in the early 70's during the first oil embargo when people started burning wood again. At that time hydraulic splitters were still mostly a dream in the mind of inventors. It was that or a maul and wedges.

Sticklers, buzz saws, radial arm saws, blade style wheeled brush cutters- every barstool expert can tell you about his great uncles barbers second wifes mailmans cousins brother in law that lost one arm, all his teeth, 3 toes and got herpes from using one of the above named tools. Plus, you can find those stories on the internet, so it's GOT to be true!

 

[Russ from MN]

That sure seems slow!

 

[gtractorfan]

My homemade splitter has served me well for many years. One thing I learned, if you have a log section that gives you trouble, back up a bit and put a piece between the plate and the log. (picture) It changes things enough the wedge usually makes it through. I liked having the trailer as a platform for a big piece to drop on and stay close at hand.

 

[RedMF40]

I've read all the replies and firewood stories, thanks. I'm interested in how others process their firewood. Lots of ways to go about it but the wood has to get broken down into smaller pieces somehow.

For the tractor idea, I like it but I only have one tractor. It's either going to move firewood or split it. It can't do both, at least not at the same time. I have to handle some big rounds that I can't move on my own. Also, a tractor-mounted vertical unit would be a plus.

Sounds like 22-ton unit would do the trick as I mentioned and based on what others are saying here. There's a very good Huskee for sale locally, lightly used. Excellent price, just not sure I want to bring home another piece of equipment right now. This may motivate me to cut up the huge amount of ash I have standing and dead and put off the wood splitter for another day. I can split the ash by hand, may supplement it with some tree company give-aways if they have oak or maple.

For this post, you get a bonus: the Gravely-powered "Spinning Cone of Death," as I call it. Neat idea, looks very tiring to use, more so than splitting wood with a maul. And a lot more dangerous.

Gerrit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yeo6x4B_w

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Before you give the ' Stickler ' concept the shove look at this ,

https://youtu.be/SFQMIu63efo

Hycrack have taken the concept and refined it to the point where it's safe and easy to use .

 

[Ultradog MN]

Well said Bret.
At the end of the video the guy addresses
the safety factor and says We've been
protecting people for so long that we've
bred nothing but idiots. - or something to
that effect.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 06:25:25 07/05/21) Well said Bret.
At the end of the video the guy addresses
the safety factor and says We've been
protecting people for so long that we've
bred nothing but idiots. - or something to
that effect.

I like that saying!

 

[Billy NY]

You have it covered, from the blocks to the split wood, comfortable working height !

One thing I avoid is working off the ground, I load up the 555C's loader bucket with blocks, set where I can grab them and the split wood goes into 1 of 4 Gardenway carts. These are the plywood/light gauge galv tube with 26 bicycle wheels type carts, they hold quite a bit and the only low work is the 1st few courses of wood in the stack. Keeps one working at a comfortable height which is key to working in comfort.

Seems most homeowner kinds of splitters do not have a cradle, log catcher or table on the beam, some modern ones have them or offer an accessory, usually small, but better than nothing. It's really hard to figure how a person can work with the old or earlier low to the ground splitters, like the old Didier splitters. Low to the ground, nothing but a beam and you are bent over while working. We used to take one of these and put it up onto a heavy table to work with it.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I had a pull behind and it worked well, was home made. BUT-you are
bent over the whole time you use it. I bought a used 3pt to use on my
tractor and it is WAY BETTER. You can lower it to the ground and roll
on a piece too big to lift, if need be. You can raise to a
comfortable working height: no staying bent over-killing my back. I
made a handle to reach the 3pt lever from behind the tractor so I
don't have to walk around to raise and lower. I have a loader on most
of the time, plugged into the remotes. I have an electric splitter
that makes it into dual remotes. I just set the switch for the loader
or the splitter. I made a cradle-once the log is on the splitter it
is never on the ground again. I always park the wagon right in the
midst of the cut wood, and back the splitter right next to the wagon.
As I split, it gets tossed onto the wagon. I also have little hitch
welded on the back of the splitter to move the wagon around, and also
a hook if I need to pull a log or something. Mark.

 

[timcasbolt]

(quoted from post at 17:05:23 07/04/21) That sure seems slow!

witching to a 3" cylinder would have made it faster, but I wasn't sure if it would have enough power for the tuff stuff. I could have switched to 3/4" hoses and opened up the fittings in a lathe, but I thought the speed was fine right where it was. This was my first 3 point hitch splitter, and I was very proud of how well it worked.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The reason you don't see the higher-rated splitters for sale is because there aren't as many of them out there. Everybody buys the 22 ton unit because it's cheaper. 22 ton - $999. 27 ton - $1500. 35 ton - $2100. (old pricing)

The "ton" rating is BS. Tractor Supply doesn't even offer a 22 ton model anymore. It's now 25, 30 and 40 ton. They look identical to the old models to me, just bigger numbers. Do they really produce that much force? Not even close.

What was so miserable about using a wood splitter over doing it by hand? It had to be some serious cartoon physics event that would leave a bad taste in your mouth especially if you're splitting something other than straight grained pine/fir type wood.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I was wondering the same thing-what was so hard about using a wood
splitter over a maul? Even when/if I was in good shape, using a maul
or a sledge and a wedge, was never as fast as the hydraulic splitter.
And when I take the split piece, it is tossed on the wagon. I never
pick up again, and if I don't need the wagon I will burn off of it,
and not even stack it. Doing it by hand the piece goes flying, or
won't stay standing up; you're always bending over and picking wood
pieces up. Even spitting ash the ram barely has to push the wood, it
splits, and I return the ram and toss the split piece onto the wagon.
much easier to me. Mark.

 

[RedMF40]

Barnyard and Mark, noise was one issue. The speed or lack thereof was another issue but I'd have to have a wood splitter right in front of me to tell you more since this was some years ago. With Mark's setup it sounds like it would be a more pleasant way to go about it--getting the splitter to the right height to work comfortably. The three-point units come up for sale occasionally here, will look at what it takes to get my tractor married to one of them. Thanks for all the info.

Gerrit

 

[RWK in WI]

One way we got a tow style splitter to a more comfortable working height was to replace the 8 inch wheels
with 12 inch wheels from a junked boat trailer.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Red-one more thing-with the tractor it only has to run at medium throttle to run the splitter-so not as noisy as a chain saw! And
the speed, well to me, hands down, the tractor splitter is way faster. I have the ram almost constantly moving if I have a helper
and thereby constantly splitting. Even by myself, as soon as I pick up log, the ram is moving. The ram may seem slow but in fact
since you are consistently moving wood thru it, it is quicker and the wood is loaded on the wagon as soon as it is split. Thanks
for your reply, Mark.

 

[circus]

Starting from scratch I think a flywheel wood splitter looks the most promising.

 

[JMOR]

" What's a 5-Ton Difference?" OK, I did leave it alone for 3 days, but couldn't resist any longer. Answer: 10,000 pounds

 

[560Dennis]

Looking a log splitter also . Was disappointed ,went to the local implements dealer to get some info after looking at the early messicks video about
specs and woods splitter.
They told me that Woods dropped the splitter line so they did not have anything to offer, ugh !
Dont like the big box stores ,no help if anything goes wrong.

 

[Keith True]

I went to a flywheel splitter in 1980,never looked back.The biggest thing about flywheel splitters is when you show somebody a picture of one they laugh.The word I've heard most was tinkertoy.The wood guys here all use them,unless they use a processer.They are built here in New England,with no dealer network.They are not rated in tons,because they don't use a piston putting out a steady push.They act like a maul smacking into the wood.There is always somebody saying I would like to see it splitting this or that monster,and there will always be wood that it won't like,but overall,they do a great job.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 20:25:30 07/08/21) I went to a flywheel splitter in 1980,never looked back.The biggest thing about flywheel splitters is when you show somebody a picture of one they laugh.The word I've heard most was tinkertoy.The wood guys here all use them,unless they use a processer.They are built here in New England,with no dealer network.They are not rated in tons,because they don't use a piston putting out a steady push.They act like a maul smacking into the wood.There is always somebody saying I would like to see it splitting this or that monster,and there will always be wood that it won't like,but overall,they do a great job.

real flywheel splitter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaqkMkS4s3I

 

[tractorguy2]

I have a 22 ton with a 5hp briggs. Have not found anything yet I couldn't split. Most time I just run the engine at a fast idle. Don't think I've ever ran the
engine wide open.

 

[Texasmark]

You know J., Lunker Bass are like that. They let the fry do all the commotion while they survey the situation but sooner or later they
can't resist. That Predator Instinct gets the best of them. Just takes patience. Grin.