Looking at 6610 but....

[ryanbanman]

Looking for a 2nd tractor. Came across a 1988 Ford 6610. It's in really good shape. Got a Buhler Allied loader w/ quick attach ( though no bale forks with it).

Anyways, my question is this. It seems to be leaking fuel from somewhere. It was on nearly the whole right side of the engine. And I could see it at the top near the middle of the engine, though it was kind of hard to see as the 24V battery was mounted on a shelf at the top of the engine.

It's not dripping, nor leaving puddles. Does anyone think this could be a major issue? Don't know anything about thiese. But read something about a DPS injector pump? Or could it just be a fuel line, or O ring on the injector?

If it's something somewhat simple, I can handle that. Or would this be potentially too risky? Seller is asking $15,000 Cdn.

Just really don't need another project over winter, but rather something that I can hop on and use to feed my cows and not have to hire someone to do my hay again this summer....at least till my deere is fixed.

 

[Harry in Ky]

There's nothing "risky" about fuel leaks. Could be as simple as some problem with the return line plumbing. Not at all uncommon, and certainly not all too involved to repair.

 

[mhb@ufe]

The battery is 12 volt and the battery tray swings out to give access to the injectors and fuel lines.

 

[wh]

Could be rubber fuel return line. Had that happen on both a 7600 and 5600. Easy fix

 

[Welding man]

I could write a book on the good and bad of the 10 series tractors. It is all about how the tractor has been taken care of and if it was properly maintained. Could be a great tractor or a money pit.

 

[sotxbill]

There are many places for fuel to leak. So without more info, it could be the filters and water separator, the prime pump on the later series, the bleed thingie on the side of the injector pump, any of the fittings and connections. Return lines on the injectors, Some require an oring, some tightening a clamp or fitting, some filters need replacing with new gaskets or simply tighten up. Most are simply due to neglect. The primer on the later series was common on some of mine, and the injector pump air release valve on the injector pump was common. AND most farmers dont have time to do minor repairs.. I bring my tractors back home every couple of years, remove the loaders, power wash them a couple of times, and do all the service, fix leaks, wiring, lights, add freon, and anything else, before I refit the loaders and take them back down to the ranch or farm. Also a great time to clean out the cabs, windows, and interior wipe down. Nothing worse than trying to look through filthy windows into the sun.

 

[nashranch]

i had a 1981 6600 similar tractor a few years back. It was a great tractor. I wish i never sold it

 

[ryanbanman]

The battery is 12 volt and the battery tray swings out to give access to the injectors and fuel lines.

Its a 12v? Its a really large battery. I thoguht it was 24v. My mistake. If it swung out, that i didnt know either as the loader arms wouldve been in the way to do so. The seller really didnt know anything about the tractor. And this was my first time seeing one.

 

[ryanbanman]

There's nothing "risky" about fuel leaks. Could be as simple as some problem with the return line plumbing. Not at all uncommon, and certainly not all too involved to repair.

Some of what I read, said it could be more than just a line. Maybe an injector pump. If its a line, yeah easy peasy. Just wondering what the worst case scenario could be

 

[ryanbanman]

i had a 1981 6600 similar tractor a few years back. It was a great tractor. I wish i never sold it

It sounds and moved great. Just worried about that leak being more than I was hoping to deal with.
Its between this and a masey 275. But the masey loader system plugs into the hydraulic plugs at the back. So id have to plug and unplug from those ports only. Not a big deal, but would prefer not to have to

 

[ryanbanman]

There are many places for fuel to leak. So without more info, it could be the filters and water separator, the prime pump on the later series, the bleed thingie on the side of the injector pump, any of the fittings and connections. Return lines on the injectors, Some require an oring, some tightening a clamp or fitting, some filters need replacing with new gaskets or simply tighten up. Most are simply due to neglect. The primer on the later series was common on some of mine, and the injector pump air release valve on the injector pump was common. AND most farmers dont have time to do minor repairs.. I bring my tractors back home every couple of years, remove the loaders, power wash them a couple of times, and do all the service, fix leaks, wiring, lights, add freon, and anything else, before I refit the loaders and take them back down to the ranch or farm. Also a great time to clean out the cabs, windows, and interior wipe down. Nothing worse than trying to look through filthy windows into the sun.

I didnt get a good look into it at that moment. The battery as in the way, but now I know it swings out....but the loader arms are in its way....
If the worst case issue wouldn't be that big of a deal, then id consider it more so. Just didnt want to have to deal with a potentially bigger issue

 

[Destroked 450]

I have an 89 model with a 495 Allied loader

The series II models have hydrostatic steering which is an improvement over the older steering sector setup
Raising the loader to full height will allow swinging the battery tray old some but not all the out 90 degrees, a fuel leak on top isn’t a big issue, pay close attention to the rubber hose that connects to the plastic return line at # 4 injector, this hose goes back to the fuel tank and is easy to pinch when swinging the battery tray back in place
The Allied loader is a good loader but a bit heavy for my use, you’ll need loaded tires, weights or both to handle the weight of the loader and a big round bale, as far as I know Allied quick attach is Allied only so attachments are a bit difficult to find sometimes.

 

[ryanbanman]

I have an 89 model with a 495 Allied loader
View attachment 134492
The series II models have hydrostatic steering which is an improvement over the older steering sector setup
Raising the loader to full height will allow swinging the battery tray old some but not all the out 90 degrees, a fuel leak on top isn’t a big issue, pay close attention to the rubber hose that connects to the plastic return line at # 4 injector, this hose goes back to the fuel tank and is easy to pinch when swinging the battery tray back in place
The Allied loader is a good loader but a bit heavy for my use, you’ll need loaded tires, weights or both to handle the weight of the loader and a big round bale, as far as I know Allied quick attach is Allied only so attachments are a bit difficult to find sometimes.

Thank you for the advice. greatly appreciate it. I won't be doing bales usually not much bigger than 1000lbs. Hopefully its suitable for that. Most of my customers are horse people, so they prefer 700lbs bales.

 

[Destroked 450]

My bales are the smaller 4x5 that weight around 750 lbs, you’ll want fluid in the rear tires even for that size

 

[sotxbill]

You can always... pick up a bale on the back first before the front.. however that size tractor will do fine with just water in the rear tires. We do the 5x6 bales with our 5610/6610/7710s with nothing on the rear. Now that being said... if they are fresh out of the baler on these newer super tight balers... The overload valve on the loader controls is squealing big time... If I let the bales sit a week, it picks up these new super bales just fine. As always, dont move bales around with them all the way up in the air, dont drive fast, dont turn fast with a bale up in the air, as you can tip over the tractor. and definitely dont raise up a bale high while on a slope. I can remember moving bales with a 3000 and a 730 loader, and the back tire just spinning and coming off the ground a bunch. Had a really old shredder with 1/4 inch plate on it that weigh a ton, and also stuck out really far to the rear. It was a perfect counter weight on a small tractor in the muddy feed pen and help keep the rear tires down. Back when I was young and indestructible and feeding the cold rainy weather. Every time the rear tire came up, you simply dropped the bale.

 

[Jim.ME]

You can always... pick up a bale on the back first before the front.. however that size tractor will do fine with just water in the rear tires. We do the 5x6 bales with our 5610/6610/7710s with nothing on the rear. Now that being said... if they are fresh out of the baler on these newer super tight balers... The overload valve on the loader controls is squealing big time... If I let the bales sit a week, it picks up these new super bales just fine. As always, dont move bales around with them all the way up in the air, dont drive fast, dont turn fast with a bale up in the air, as you can tip over the tractor. and definitely dont raise up a bale high while on a slope. I can remember moving bales with a 3000 and a 730 loader, and the back tire just spinning and coming off the ground a bunch. Had a really old shredder with 1/4 inch plate on it that weigh a ton, and also stuck out really far to the rear. It was a perfect counter weight on a small tractor in the muddy feed pen and help keep the rear tires down. Back when I was young and indestructible and feeding the cold rainy weather. Every time the rear tire came up, you simply dropped the bale.

Given he quoted a price in Canadian $, I very much doubt "just water" will do fine in the rear tires, if he is in or near Canada. It needs to be a liquid ballast that does not freeze at the temperatures the tractor will be operated during.

 

[Sean in PA]

Clean that side of the engine with a good degreaser and let it dry. Then run it for few minutes and you should be able to see where the leak is coming from. You may need to raise the loader arms part way to swing the battery tray out.