Looking at Ford 2000, questions.

[pdhntr]

I am looking at buying a 1974 Ford 2000. It looks good in the pics and I am going to schedule a visit.

First question is, are the tires supposed to be loaded? The ones on my 8n are and I would expect the ones on the 2000 should be also, right?

Is there anything I should inspect closely with regards to that line of tractors? I know my 8n very well, but not the 2000.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Jim

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:38:36 06/03/22) I am looking at buying a 1974 Ford 2000. It looks good in the pics and I am going to schedule a visit.

First question is, are the tires supposed to be loaded? The ones on my 8n are and I would expect the ones on the 2000 should be also, right?

Is there anything I should inspect closely with regards to that line of tractors? I know my 8n very well, but not the 2000.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Jim

on't be surprised to see the 4th cylinder missing. Tires loaded or not really depends on what use the tractor is put to. FEL needs weight on rear as well as for traction for heavy pull, like plowing.

 

[Sean in PA]

They never came from the factory with loaded tires, neither your 8N or the 3000, or any other Ford tractor model that I am aware of. To add liquid ballast was a decision made by the owner and was usually done by either the owner, the dealer, or a tire shop. As JMOR has said, it depends on what you need the tractor to do as to whether ballasting makes sense.

 

[marcusmerritt]

Ford 2000, 3 cyl. gas and diesel....my first tractor, a 1966 gasser, had no ballast in the tires. They were badly sun cracked so I replaced them not too long after I bought the tractor. I added ballast (windshield wiper fluid) because the rears would slip on grass with any load on the tractor. Put around 40 gallons of WWF in the two rears and some in the front. It made a huge difference in traction. Plus, I felt safer because of the extra weight down low. The diesel tractor is a 1970 and it came from the previous owner with loaded tires. I think those tires contain an antifreeze mixture as the liquid that comes out is greenish like radiator fluid. I've been really pleased with both tractors but am gonna sell the gasser and keep the diesel.

 

[pdhntr]

Yeah, I am going to need loaded tires. I have a two bottom plow and a good disc, and might be opening up more of my fields to improve them. I should have thought my questions over a little better.

I am going to pass on the tractor if they aren't loaded. I think it is a bit pricey to get them done correctly.

Am I correct in that the 2000 has power assist steering? In old posts I see questions on leaks. Are the parts still available for that system?

Thanks.

Jim

 

[Sean in PA]

(quoted from post at 19:37:56 06/03/22) Yeah, I am going to need loaded tires. I have a two bottom plow and a good disc, and might be opening up more of my fields to improve them. I should have thought my questions over a little better.

I am going to pass on the tractor if they aren't loaded. I think it is a bit pricey to get them done correctly.

Am I correct in that the 2000 has power assist steering? In old posts I see questions on leaks. Are the parts still available for that system?

Thanks.

Jim

The power assist steering was an option, so not all of them had it. There are also after market power assist steering kits, so it might have that instead of the factory option setup. Parts are still available to rebuild/reseal the factory cylinders, the control valve and the newer style pumps that a '74 2000 should have. If it has an aftermarket power assist setup, then you should still be able to get seals for those at any hydraulic shop.

 

[marcusmerritt]

I loaded the rear ag tires on my gas 2000 with -20 degree windshield wiper fluid for about $140 plus the cost of the liquid pump and tire stem valve. Had a 55 gallon drum of WWF delivered to my house and thought that cost was reasonable. Picked up a liquid pump from Harbor Freight and a fill valve from NAPA. Pretty reasonable, I thought.

 

[jimtrs]

Transmission with over/under is a plus

 

[sotxbill]

I would look for: the 8/2 trans, power steering, live pto. I would pass on a 4 speed. You can purchase a fair aftermarket power steering system. Loading the tires is trivial, tractor condition is critical. Condition of tires would effect the offing price, but its too easy to put new tires on, and too hard to put a new engine it. If you plan of keeping the tractor more than 10 years, plan on putting tires on it as some point anyway. If your just keeping it a short time, then buy it with good tires or discount the price accordingly. Condition, condition, condition! DO NOT worry about paint or looks as these are the least important things. Most of the butt ugly tractors end up being in the best condition. Just because a tractor slept outside every night for 50 years has nothing to do with the mechanical condition.

 

[Sean in PA]

(quoted from post at 14:01:55 06/04/22) I would look for: the 8/2 trans, power steering, live pto. I would pass on a 4 speed.

I don't think that a 1974 2000 could have a 4 speed unless the trans was swapped out at some point They stopped offering the 4 speed sometime in 1970 and the 6 speed became the lowest end transmission offered.

 

[Tracy Brown]

If it is a gas, see if it has a Holley or Zenith carb. It came with the Holley and they are junk. If it has the zenith, someone has upgraded
it. A new Zenith carb will kill $500.

 

[pdhntr]

I went and looked at the tractor today. I am heading out with the trailer to get it tomorrow.

It is a '74, has factory power steering, gas, high and low, four speed. New tires, loaded with beet juice, ROPS. The previous owner did a real nice paint job and decals on it about 10 years ago. Looks brand new. Absolutely no leaks anywhere. 1740 on working tac, although the little part of the needle is busted. Oil is as clean as it comes out of the container.

Only problem noted was the left brake doesn't work. Right one is fine.

It is really a nice tractor that I think I will enjoy working with.

Thanks guys for all the help.

Jim

 

[pdhntr]

(quoted from post at 16:36:14 06/04/22) If it is a gas, see if it has a Holley or Zenith carb. It came with the Holley and they are junk. If it has the zenith, someone has upgraded
it. A new Zenith carb will kill $500.

I didn't notice what it had for a carb. I drove it around some and let it idle. I did not notice anything that would lead me to question the carb during that time. I will check into it.

Thanks.

Jim

 

[Hobo,NC]

I would not let the Holley bother me one bit if you understand how they work 99% are repairable. The problem is folks throw in the towel an expensive towel.

OK I understand why the haters dread them. The cost of a kit and a float and the feeling of throwing your money down the drain. If I were not well versed in automotive carbs I may have blessed my 3000 with my pocket book for a zenith.

 

[kenbob]

My take from experience: How long has the previous owner owned the tractor? I was lucky enough to buy a Case Vac from an original owner. Tractors cared for by the same
family are usually a better risk than ones that have changed hands several times--especially tractors only owned for a year or less by previous owner.

I bought a 2000 last year. It was NOT as above, but thought it was still a good deal. Yes, my tires slip on wet grass. In dry conditions I can pull the 2 bottom plow
deep without slippage. My VAC never had any fluid in the tires and the rims are like new. My Ford rims are pretty good for a tractor with 5000 hrs on it, so maybe no
fluid there either. Tractors that used the old fluid usually have rotten rims at some point.

As far as the Holly carb, I could not ask for a better experience as far as the carb goes. I love my 2000 because it goes slow enough for gardening on my small plot.
It goes fast enough for tractor rides. I have one bad brake as well, but on the opposite side. No live power on my tractor but still very useful in many ways. That
3cyl really has great lugging power. I think it is twice the tractor an 8n is, but at less than twice the price as far as prices go in NW MO.

 

[Sean in PA]

It is a '74, has factory power steering, gas, high and low, four speed.

If the High/Low shifter is a shorter stick next to the main shifter on top of the transmission, then that is what we call an 8 speed, which is the best, most desirable, manual transmission that it could have. If the high/low shifter is down on the left side of the bell housing then that is a 4 speed with a Sherman auxiliary transmission.

 

[pdhntr]

Got the 2000 home today and looked it over better and adjusted and tightened a few things.

It DOES have a Zenith carb. On the little plate it says I can run it in California.

It is an 8 speed. Two shifters on top of the transmission.

The throttle lever is very touchy. It seems to go from idle to full throttle with a very small movement of the lever.

So what is the service manual of choice? With the 8n it is the FO4. What should I get for the 2000?

Thanks everyone.

Jim

 

[sotxbill]

Thanks Sean,, good to know in my tractor hunts.
To me, the 4 sp is about worthless and cripples an otherwise great tractor. Its almost as bad as an sos... for someone who uses and flips tractors like me. 4 speeds just dont have the correct gear for about anything your doing. Either too slow or too fast. The sos tractors are just great till you try to sell them. They can take a year to two to flip, but udderly fantastic for tilling the garden, and any other chore. And pray there are no problems with it along the way.