Looking for ideas on carb issue

[Mfielbrandt]

I have a 1967 2510 with marvel schebler xt carb I believe c type. This tractor set for a couple years. So I pulled the carb disassembled cleaned out a new carb kit in and choke shaft. I flushed tank blew out lines removed fuel pump and cleaned made sure it functioned. Reinstalled all I have gas to carb and gas in bottom of carb. Can’t get it to start. I pulled the pipe plug above carb in intake manifold and if I shoot a small amount of either in there it will fire? What do I look for

 

[M-MAN]

I would test for voltage at the solenoid first. If it's there pull the solenoid and verify it's working. Plunger could be stuck.

 

[Mfielbrandt]

I do have voltage there and I hear an audible click is there another way to test that? I see it has an adjustable screw. Do I mess with it at all?

 

[RobCons]

Since its starting on ether I would concentrate on the carb and fuel delivery. Pull the plug located on bottom of the carb to see what sort of flow you have. Disable carb and verify it was assembled correctly. That electronic solenoid is a shut off to prevent diesling. Make sure its working.

 

[matthies]

What did that solenoid set you back. $$

 

[Fixingfarmer]

it looks like the solenoid isn't brand new if its over 5 years old probably half what it would be today.

If I remember right on the 2510 there was an adjustment screw that had to be a full turn out of what was recomended in my manual. I spent quite a bit of time messing with it before I figured that out. Id try that before doing anything else its not getting fuel if it fires on ether. Make sure your carb to manifold gasket is in good condition preferably brand new as well.

It was very sporadic how it would run even after figuring that out until I put an ignitor kit on the distributor shaft had enough play in it that made it much better but your first step is to get it to run at all.

 

[RobCons]

A manual adjustment screw is available to replace the solenoid for just a few dollars. Down side is the engine may want to continue running for a bit when you shut it down.

 

[Mfielbrandt]

it looks like the solenoid isn't brand new if its over 5 years old probably half what it would be today.

If I remember right on the 2510 there was an adjustment screw that had to be a full turn out of what was recomended in my manual. I spent quite a bit of time messing with it before I figured that out. Id try that before doing anything else its not getting fuel if it fires on ether. Make sure your carb to manifold gasket is in good condition preferably brand new as well.

It was very sporadic how it would run even after figuring that out until I put an ignitor kit on the distributor shaft had enough play in it that made it much better but your first step is to get it to run at all.

Thanks I’ll try that manual screw is Re19406 for $49.30 a new Electric Re19408 for $440.00. So it’s going back manual!

 

[Mfielbrandt]

The other thing yes once I get running convert to electronic ignition!
Thanks

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Thanks I’ll try that manual screw is Re19406 for $49.30 a new Electric Re19408 for $440.00. So it’s going back manual!

If you do go down that road and haven’t found Macdonald carb and ignition give them a call I’m betting you can get an electric solenoid for 1/4 of that NOT to try to change your mind the electric one is expensive can be troublesome but it is nice to have they call it an anti dieseling switch but it seems to prevent the puddle on the floor from a leaking needle and seat as well. At least to some extent. When it’s working. At least for the 3010 last week I thought it was 150 dollars for the whole thing. He will use the actual part number from MS your John Deere number may or may not mean anything to him.

 

[Mfielbrandt]

I assume there is no way to test those expensive electric anti dieseling shutoff solenoids? I messed with it all day again had the carb off and on 4 times I know every port is free of dirt and all parts are assembled correctly and yet still won’t run with shot of either! The solenoid 12 volts to it and I can use an oring tool inside the valve and plunger moves freely? This one has me stumped?

 

[wore out]

I assume there is no way to test those expensive electric anti dieseling shutoff solenoids? I messed with it all day again had the carb off and on 4 times I know every port is free of dirt and all parts are assembled correctly and yet still won’t run with shot of either! The solenoid 12 volts to it and I can use an oring tool inside the valve and plunger moves freely? This one has me stumped?

Likely, the solenoid is fine and there's something plugged in the carb or something amiss in the body gasket, venturi, or bowl vent area.

With the solenoid unattached to the carburetor and you apply power and ground to it does the "needle" retract?

 

[wore out]

The solenoid needs to retract, against internal spring tension, when powered.

 

[Mfielbrandt]

Likely, the solenoid is fine and there's something plugged in the carb or something amiss in the body gasket, venturi, or bowl vent area.

With the solenoid unattached to the carburetor and you apply power and ground to it does the "needle" retract?

I don’t think anything is plug have cleaned really well and blown compressed air through all ports and holes and installed all new parts and gaskets. Today I took that electrical solenoid off again, hooked up known 12 volts to it grounded the body of it and can here an audible click. Don’t really see any movement down in the body of, but if I take a pick I can push on the plunger inside freely moves it and it freely moves?

 

[GuitarBob]

A manual adjustment screw is available to replace the solenoid for just a few dollars. Down side is the engine may want to continue running for a bit when you shut it down.

I’ve never had a problem in that regard with my 2510, non solenoid power screw. Just make sure that you pull out the throttle knob to bypass low idle 800 rpm and push it up into shutoff position lower idle 425 rpm.

 

[GuitarBob]

The other thing yes once I get running convert to electronic ignition!
Thanks

I‘ve not regretted doing that with my 2510 or 3020.

 

[Mfielbrandt]

I’ve never had a problem in that regard with my 2510, non solenoid power screw. Just make sure that you pull out the throttle knob to bypass low idle 800 rpm and push it up into shutoff position lower idle 425 rpm.

Yes thanks. The governor linkage or governor itself should have no bearing on this issue right?

 

[GuitarBob]

Yes thanks. The governor linkage or governor itself should have no bearing on this issue right?

No. I was commenting on removal of the solenoid actuated shut off on the load adjustment screw. Shutoff rpm is adjusted via a stop on linkage, as is low idle, hi idle, and wide open. Meaning that I’ve never had issues with dieseling as long as I throttle all the way down.

Typically even if the load adjustment is all the way in, it should still start and run with out load. But the solenoid shuts off that circuit when power is removed. Be sure that it moves while still in the carb. It may be shut off even when powered.

No expert, just sharing my experience.