LOVE that salt.

[jeffcat]

This covers so many bases. Going to work two days ago and stopping for a light the pedal almost goes to the floor. Awwww %$#@@$.... Take a look underneath and there is a nice runny trail of brakefluid running down the front cross frame. Limped it to the rapair shop on rear brakes and a one pint bottle of brake fluid. $200.oo later and a whole day it is now fixed. They use sometype of tubing that sort of looks like copper tube but is called Nickel copper tubing. He showed me a 40 foot roll of the stuff. He said we go through one or even two rolls of this stuff a WEEK! Can you believe this was once a brake line and actually held fluid? Walking over to the shop this is a street sign that is set back 10 feet from the hyway. Looks good doesn't it? I will load the pictures latter.

 

[Jeff NWOH]

Copper nickel is the only tubing I'll use anymore. I was using stainless for a while, but that stuff was a pain to bend and flare.

 

[JDEM]

As I recall, Volvo was the first major auto maker to use copper-nickel (cunifer) brake lines instead of the crap steel used here in the USA. Volvo changed over in 1976.

I would not use anything else due to all the road salt where I drive (summer and winter). Using steel is a waste of time and money. The vinyl-coated stuff is a joke that many auto parts stores carry.

Copper-nickel is easy to work with and pretty cheap IF you buy on-line and stay away from local auto parts stores.

$13 for 25 feet when I buy on-line, including shipping. 25 feet at my local Autozone is $45.

 

[johnlobb]

I just had that happen to my car 2 weeks ago. Went to Wallyworld for some tires and the "tech" (who could not even drive my stick shift) put the hoist blocks under my rear brake lines and sheared them. They paid to have both rear lines replaced with Cupronickel tubing. Cost them over $600 because I got jacked around with an arrogant asst manager in the beginning. It's all good now.

 

[JDEM]

Kind of hard to beat the prices on-line. 1/4 of what the stores charge locally in my area.

 

[kcm.MN]

I have a 2000 Dodge 1500 that needs a brake line. My workshop is the great outdoors, and the ticks and black flies are horrible this year! Am thinking about trying to get the truck into town (30 miles away) to have someone else do it. ...Might try for next week.

 

[Josh-nhihguy]

Stopping for a light. My first thought was you were lighting up a cigarette. Yeah that's all I got

 

[jeffcat]

Ok let me try to load these.

 

[jeffcat]

A goof up. The remains of the front brake line, that sign along the hyway, and a close up. Looks good doesn't it? Bet you in two or three tears this extra heavy duty steel post will rot off and fall over street signs and all.

 

[jeffcat]

And the close-up.

 

[jeffcat]

Stoplight. Don't smoke. As others do when driving.....pick nose.

 

[CCer]

That stuff creeps better than peneterating oil, I replace more parts on the truck-n-trailer, due to salt than I ever wear out. Rust jacking, where the stuff gets between two parts, rusts, and swells. now parts need replacement.
I was driving a late model 1 Ton truck, pulling a trailer, with a new Skid-steer loader tied on. Came around a turn, there was backed-up traffic, couldn't get it stopped, so I went for the tall grass on the shoulder. It was a wet ditch. 1 Ton & trailer on it's side. A big wrecker pulled it out. Amazing, NO visible damage! A few days later, there were NO brakes! A line was rusted thru.

 

[sms]

Don't forget the damage to all the concrete bridge abutments and other infrastructure.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Our county isn't satisfied with just spreading salt in the winter. The road commission has several brine wells and they spray salt water on all the gravel roads in the county to keep the dust down.

 

[showcrop]

Jeffcat, You had better take a look at the rubber lines at each front and center rear. They are probably close to going too. I recently replaced most of the lines on a '67 car with the copper nickel. At each oil change on my two drivers I crawl front to back with an oil can squirting oil on any rust spots that I see, so my lines are good but I had to replace the rubber ones last year on an '07

 

[Keith True]

When that line first showed up in the parts stores it was $2.per foot,and we were happy to pay it.Advance and Autozone are still about $40 per roll,but another parts store I use is $25.per roll.Online is the best way to buy it.I have been buying the 100 foot rolls,(Parts store only,not online) because I had dozens of 6-15 inch pieces left from the rolls that almost never get used.It isn't corrosion proof,but it is a huge improvement.I won't use the stainless stuff,it takes three flare attempts to get one without cracking.I use a hydraulic flare tool,not a hand one.

 

[timcasbolt]

(quoted from post at 01:40:33 06/01/19) Kind of hard to beat the prices on-line. 1/4 of what the stores charge locally in my area.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto24972.jpg">

I'm not familiar with that stuff. Do you use the same fittings and flares as the steel line?

 

[MARK ROBKE]

With all the other safety regs for vehicles, it should be illegal to build them with brake lines that can rust. Mark.

 

[JDEM]

Yes, same fittings as used with steel lines. The "cunifer" brake line is easier to work with and flares easier then steel.

 

[jacksun65]

The stuff they spray on the roads to prevent ice is magnesium cloride. As the name states it's a metal salt, so you have two types of corrosion instead of one. The stuff is insidious it wicks up electric wires goes through concrete and causes a lot of damage.

 

[RBoots]

Mark, build them cheap as possible, gotta make the most profit possible. How about the tires that come on a new vehicle? lol

 

[timcasbolt]

(quoted from post at 14:26:07 06/01/19) Yes, same fittings as used with steel lines. The "cunifer" brake line is easier to work with and flares easier then steel.

Thanks!

 

[Ozlander]

Do you still need to use a double flare?

 

[RBoots]

Mark B, if you don't, every time that wind is blowing dust off the road, there goes the clay (binder) for the gravel. If you're in an area that has a lot of natural clay, not such a big deal. If it's a sandy area, and you don't lock those roads down, see how long they last before they are chattered up and punched full of soft spots. Also not such a big deal this year with all the rain we've had, as the moisture will keep it locked down, but this year has not been normal. Maybe your county has enough money to redo the gravel on every township gravel road each year @ $7000 a mile for materials minus labor, but the one I work for doesn't. Maybe you have a lot of unused county workers that can go babysit and scrape the gravel roads every few days, mine doesn't. There is 14 of us in trucks trying to maintain the gravel roads in my county, I myself take care of 50 lane miles of gravel roads. It's hard enough to keep up with the foreign dairy farmers wrecking them, especially when they beat a new chloride application out of the road in 2 days. My township gets 2 applications of chloride over the summer, 2000 gallons a mile. The first was 2 weeks ago. That will keep them like a blacktop road for 2 months until the next application. After the second application wears out 2 months after that, we will begin our normal fall scraping regimen trying to get over everything 3 or so times before snow flies. When the binder blows away, you're scraping stones. Stones don't/won't fill holes, and won't keep a road from washboarding. Don't think I'm attacking you, I'm not. I'm just giving a view from the other side of the fence.

 

[RBoots]

Yes SMS, I don't agree with the amount of salt put down on pavement. People cannot drive at all, and think that they should be able to drive 75 mph in a snowstorm. I think the only time it should be used is to lift hardpack or during an actual ice storm. Problem is, someone goes in the ditch, cops call central dispatch saying it's icy, contact local municipality to salt. Once local municipality knows of it, it becomes their assumed liability to do something. Thank the lawyers. I have to drive on them to get to work to clear them, why can't everyone else get to where they're going as well?

 

[Keith True]

Yes,you still need the double flare.Same in all respects except it is stronger,more corrosion resistant,and is MUCH easier to work with.i use a hydraulic flaring tool made by
Mastercool.Some parts stores now carry only a handful of premade brakelines now.

 

[jeffcat]

Front lines to the calipers were done about 6 months ago and the rear one was
replaced a couple of days ago wih the brakeline job. These guys are pretty
good. Many of us KNOW how to drive on ice and snow and in adverse conditions.
They spread all of this salt stuff around for the idiots who don't know how to
drive. If you don't know how to drive then stay the @#$$%^& off the road and
out of my way. Better yet, skid off the road into the bushes with the darn
kamikaze deer. They will keep you company. You can sit there and pet them.