Low Compression on Ford 2000 Diesel

I have a Ford 2000 diesel with low compression. I performed a compression test and got low readings. I drained the oil and poured a mixture of diesel and ATF fluid through the injector ports for three days or so. I was catching the fluid as it would drain out the pan drain. I performed another compression check on all cylinders and the readings were lower than than the first time. Does anyone have any suggestions on improving compression before I start to tear into the engine. The tractor sat for about a year and a half with the engine exposed to the weather before I got it. Book compression reading should be between 420 and 510 psi. I am not near those numbers
 
What are the low compression readings? Did it run? If so not much you can do if the valve lash clearances were checked. If it didn’t run can you pull start it or maybe it is a SOS? Getting it running and rechecking would be my only suggestion. Otherwise it’s roll out the toolbox time and prepare wallet.
 
Low compression is caused by worn rings. Compression is what heats the air to a temperature that will cause the squirt of diesel mist to explode. Put your mind to it and overhaul your engine......I did a 3000 that needed ether here in N. Tx. in April to start when I bought it....had a lust for a 3000 and one of my first diesels so I was naive about what was happening . After the purchase, I did a lot of fooling around hoping for the best and finally resolved myself to the OH task.

The PO used the tractor in a dealership, non paved, dirty sandy, gravelly yard and some "moron" removed the rubber hose between the air filter and the intake manifold and it stayed that way for quite awhile apparently. Upon disassembly, the pistons and rings were toast...never saw pistons that looked that horrible on the crowns and ring grooves.

The bottom end was fine so my idea to do an inframe worked. I took a ball cylinder hone and cross sectioned the cylinder walls with new pistons, rings and inserts on the lower end without any other lower end work. I was amazed that the aluminum pistons bore the brunt of the punishment and the steel cylinder walls were intact. Parts were 1k including detailed head work, some 3 decades ago; did the work myself other than what I just said, in evenings when off from my regular job. Still using the tractor daily, starts right up, pulls hard, fuel efficient, doesn't use oil, as fine a 1965 3000 Diesel tractor as anyone could possibly want.
 
Can anyone help me determine the cubic inch of the above mentioned tractor. The dealership is not able to help me through the engine serial number, and there are no tags on the valve cover giving information. I do not know if the engine is 135 ci, or 145 cu in. I am trying to order parts.
 
Can anyone help me determine the cubic inch of the above mentioned tractor. The dealership is not able to help me through the engine serial number, and there are no tags on the valve cover giving information. I do not know if the engine is 135 ci, or 145 cu in. I am trying to order parts.
How can you order parts if you do not have it apart to see what parts are needed?

Conversely, if you DO have it apart it's EASY to figure out what you have by measuring bore and stroke.
 
Can anyone help me determine the cubic inch of the above mentioned tractor. The dealership is not able to help me through the engine serial number, and there are no tags on the valve cover giving information. I do not know if the engine is 135 ci, or 145 cu in. I am trying to order parts.
Is it a 3 cylinder or 4 cylinder?
 
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