Low Compression

[JonV]

I'm planning a rebuild as soon as I can track down a sleeve tool, but wanted to get some second opinions on the compression.

#1 (75) #2 (29) #3 (59) #4 (69)

The wet test didn"t seem to effect the #"s, so maybe I didn't use enough oil or the small amount of marvel I used prior to deciding to do the test made it "wet" to begin with.

I can't even get the thing started anymore and with such horrible compression it's no wonder (it just pops). I did install new valves and guides about 2 years ago. The tractor has seen hardly any use since. I did the gas trick at that time and none leaked past the valves.

 

[old]

Those number are extra bad but. What is the history of the tractor. I have seen numbers like that many times from one that say for years before being messed with. One that have sat will have sticking ring and or valve which will have number like that. If it has sat fill the cylinder with ATF and let it sit a week and try again

 

[KL-VA]

The first compression check on one that has been sitting often looks pretty bad. Do what Old said and check compression again after you get it running. I've never seen an engine that was worn so bad it wouldn't start. Get the fuel/spark/timing right and they will always start and run. It might only run on 3 cylinders, smoke like a train, have no power, but I've even seen some of those issues sort themselves out once the rings and valves loosened up again. When you do get it started, treat it like a rebuilt engine and don't let it idle. Vary the rpm, throw it in gear and take it for a ride. It might sound like abuse, but the best way I know to get the rings to set right in the cylinders is to get the cylinder pressures up and get the crank really splashing the oil around in there.

 

[oldtanker]

I'm going to have to check but I think it would be cheaper for a one time job to just pay a shop to press out the old sleeves and put in the new.

I have one N. When I rebuild it it's going to the shop. It don't warrent the cost of a tool for a one time repair. Now if I owned 4-5 of those ole N's then I might think about buying one.

Rick

 

[Woodchuck]

I bought a 2N that had been sitting outside on Long Island for 20 years. Had low compression in all 4 cylinders. When I got it running it "Smoked Like a Train". Fouled plugs in #1 and #3 after about 5 hours. (Kept the skeeters away.) I cleaned the plugs and changed the oil and it went about 20 hours before fouling the plugs again. This time I changed the oil and put in fresh plugs. Now it only smokes lightly and ocassionally fouls a plug if I let it idle to long. They have a tendency to 'heal' when they have been sitting awhile.

 

[JonV]

I bought the ol' 2N about 6 years ago and it had been sitting for some time from the looks of it. When I got it home I cleaned ever thing up, installed new plugs, wires, oil change, etc.. It started and ran fairly well, though it did puff a fair amount of smoke out the breather. I used it for a while, but it never had enough power to plow or brush hog (the main reasons I bought it). I eventually did a valve job, but that didn't help the problem, which I kind of expected (since it was blowing smoke out the oil tube). From that point it sat in a barn for a couple years without being used and it's run horrible ever since, if I could even get it running at all. I did manage to get her running a month ago, but it barely had the power to move itself. Now it's a no go.

 

[Danny in CO]

Jon,

If the first was really a dry test and then a wet test and the numbers don't come up, it means you have valves sticking (or burned). Try another dry test and then a wet test to verify the numbers. If it is valves, you may be able to unstick them by pulling the side covers off and cleaning/working them.

Good luck,
Danny