Low Power after 12v Conversion

Willracin

Member
I did the 12v conv. Used an EBAY kit with the original ballast resistor. New Plugs and wires, cap and rotor. Double and triple checked plug gap, point gap and firing order but my tractor is down on power now. Suggestions? also using a new 12v coil.
 
Try advancing and retarding the timing. also are the automatic advance weights free and working?
Is it a front mount? Changed polarity? Might try without ballast resistor for awhile, just as a check, but not contiuesly.
Charles Krammin SW MI
 
Check your spark plug wires to make sure you have them in the correct order.
Those Ns will start and run on 2 cyls but wont have any power.
 
did you swap to a new 12v / 2.5 ohm coil, or add in an extra resistor? because your oem coil and resistor is for 6v, and now you are on 12v.. soe either you had to add a resistor.. or change a coil.

post back with more info.

ditto on the plug wires / fire order UD mentioned..... 1-2-4-3

soundguy
 
It help[s us help you if you tell us what tractor you have. 9N?? 2N// Or 8N?? then front or side mount distributor. Knowing that we can help you moire but with out that it is hard to help.
That said it could be wrong point gap since front mount you set the points at 0.015 and side mount 0.025. Or you could have the plug wires mixed up and it is running on only 2 cylinders.
 
Which is fine if it's a frontmount w/ a 12v coil and it's the OEM ballast resistor.

But, as everyone is saying, we're all guessing at this point because we don't know if it's a front or side distributor.
50 Tips
 
Sorry it's a 9n front mount. I am using the originl ballast resistor and a new 12 volt coil. Also if it helps. As a 6 volt the tractor would start in approx 2 -3 seconds and no choke required. Now its 10 seconds using full choke.
 
Sorry it's a 9n front mount. I am using the originl ballast resistor and a new 12 volt coil. Also if it helps. As a 6 volt the tractor would start in approx 2 -3 seconds and no choke required. Now its 10 seconds using full choke.
 
Point gap is .015, plugs .025.

Re-check the firing order.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

If charging the battery doesn't work, it's time for some troubleshooting. Post back w/ results or more questions.
DSC03473.jpg

50 Tips
 
Battery has 13.7 volts and it spins the engine very well. I will double check the firing order. The cylinders are numbered from the radiator. Right?
 
13.7 v is probably ok, but the real test is from voltage drop when you hit the starter button. And the fact that the starter is spinning doesn't mean you have enough current left for a good spark.

So test for voltage drop or spark. It's easier to test for spark. Get a spark tester. Or, make one. Open an old plug to 1/4" gap & ground it to the head. If the spark jumps 1/4", it's ok.

Cylinders are numbered from the radiator to the dash, 1-2-3-4. Firing order is 1-2-4-3, CCW. It's very easy to cross 2 & 3 on a frontmount.
50 Tips
 
Bruce is right on that one!!.....I am embarrassed to say that I did it once!
I felt a little foolish when I figured it out, but depending on which way you are
facing.....it can get transposed in the minds eye!!
 
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