Lubricating a headlight switch

[Smiles79]

I've got a headlight switch for my 1970 David Brown 990 tractor. It works but moves a little stuff. I'd like to fix it if possible rather than replace it.

Any ideas how to get it apart?

https://imgur.com/a/Eoj3BKL

 

[WalJohn]

Remove the snap ring and gently pry?

 

[Smiles79]

I thought the e clip was holding the shaft in, I didn't consider that it was holding the bottom on

 

[used red MN]

I thought the e clip was holding the shaft in, I didn't consider that it was holding the bottom on

You are correct the snap ring is not holding the bottom on, the staked areas are holding it on, see pic. Just a bit of warning the staked in parts of the housing may break off when you attempt to bend them back. I would try flooding the shaft with your favorite penetrating oil while working it back and forth. Eventually the lube might find it way to where it is needed. A more aggressive approach would be to drill a small hole the size of a can straw about midway of the cylindrical part of the housing and spray your lube in there. Might try to locate it where it will face down when installed or seal it with a dab of RTV.

 

[Smiles79]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Dingo3]

Make sure you use a spray that is safe for plastics and electrical connections. We used Sprayon LU711 at work with good results.
Maybe even a plastic safe contact cleaner followed by the LU711.

 

[MM-TX]

Contact cleaner might loosen it up and be less of a problem than oil getting on the contacts.

 

[leroy in ne]

Many years ago TV service men carried a spray can of product called tub-o-lube if I remember right. Used to clean and lubricate contacts in the old style turret tuners. Don't know if similar products are still made for the service trades but you might check communication techs for band switch cleaner or some thing of that type.

 

[Phill Tibbetts]

WD-40 is what I use for something like that, never had it harm anything.

 

[Janicholson]

CRC contact cleaner
Use a contact cleaner through a hole as described, then then a long lasting lube on the shaft, like Motorcycle chain lube. Jim

 

[Smiles79]

Thanks everyone for the advice!

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would just put a bit of oil on it and work it back and forth a bit. A bit of oil is not the problem it is when flooded so to speak with oil. Put it right on the snap ring and work the switch a bit so it works in to the switch since you may have a problem with the sides cracking off rather than just prying open for you. Then there will probably be a couple springs in there for the detent positions of the switch.

 

[SkipperII]

Cat Guy is correct, I've had a few apart, and those little springs are really hard to find when they play hide n seek.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I've got a headlight switch for my 1970 David Brown 990 tractor. It works but moves a little stuff. I'd like to fix it if possible rather than replace it.

Any ideas how to get it apart?

https://imgur.com/a/Eoj3BKL

I would buy a new switch.
Many times I have used a cheap lawn mower switch, around $15

 

[Russ from MN]

I have a Skill saw that had a questionable switch, WD-40 fixed it. I didn't take it apart at all, just sprayed it.

 

[showcrop]

My first thought is WD-40. Even immerse it if a good spraying doesn't work.

 

[caterpillar guy]

New switch is the faster way to solve it but no long term cure with the quality of new parts these days.

 

[Ray,IN]

I've got a headlight switch for my 1970 David Brown 990 tractor. It works but moves a little stuff. I'd like to fix it if possible rather than replace it.

Any ideas how to get it apart?

https://imgur.com/a/Eoj3BKL

No need to disassemble the switch, just gently spray a penetrating oil onto the shaft, into the switch, while working in/out. If the rheostat is not working, replace the switch, it's beyond repair.
Once it's easy to operate;
I have a hazard switch that stops working when unused for a week or more. I spray contact cleaner into the switch while working the rocker. That gets it working again. That switch is crazy expensive, $60.