M Power Steering Update

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
Okay,

Got that blasted lower pulley on, cinched up and locked down. Pump is on there.

Shroud needed to be trimmed back with a chop saw to make room for the fit.

Now, I gotta move that goofy fan forward 'bout half an inch 'cause it interferes with the belt/pulleys.

Haven't even started on the torque motor yet. I'm tellin' ya, that H conversion was a heck of a lot easier deal. :>(

Allan

pumpon3.JPG
 
If you"re talkin" about the stud and spring setup on the water pump...the tension of the springs keeps the water pump impeller pulled foreward in the water pump housing...otherwise the impeller could "float" rearwards and actally make contact with the cyl. head casting...Randy
 
Now dont u wish u would have bought a Behlen unit like on mine ? so much easier to put on i dont have a pic but i know u know what they look like, anyway you will be happy once you get it done no more arm-strong power steering lol
 
Allan, Was there a reason on going with this unit as opposed to one like your H has, or was it simply finding this one and keeping it back for a application like this ol M?
It would seem to me that the distributor driven unit would be more cleaner or is there inherent problems I have missed you talking about.
Stay warm and dry, I know ya'll are sick of winter, snow, ice. As for us here in Central Texas, We can't buy a rain! We went from drought to floods of mid simmer back to full blown drought again. Except now we have waist deep grass that is fuel for the wild fires we are having around now.
Anyway take care.
Later,
John A.
 
When I installed my Charlynn I skipped the add-on pulley, and found a belt long enough to include the pump pulley. I did have to re-engineer the pump mounting bracket to move it back to line up with the old M's pulleys. I do get a little slip on the alternator when it's snowy, but just till it flings all the snow out..
 
Hmmmm.

Mostly 'cause I've never done it before, I guess. :>)

Also, I'm not really wild about the way the priority valve syphons off oil on these smaller pumps. Makes 'em right on the edge of "functionable".

If I ever do put the loader on it, she'll have the full live pump oil for speed.

Allan
 
What does this do to the impeller shaft on the water pump? Is the spacer and bolts engineered in a certain way so that the original shaft is used? Ive never seen this type of setup in person before. Also Allen, why is the radiator rod headed downhill? That should be straight back from the gauge pod to the radiator.
 
Yea I know, but the rod one of my Ms, which is the only one of 4 that has one, is straight/level/ whatever. The other 3 I have dont have a rod.Wondering if it has something to do with the engine being replaced.Im still trying to figure out how the impeller shaft on the WP is going to be long enough.
John
 
Naw,

We got that engine thing figured out. The serial number is a '51 number, but the last three digits are the same as the tractor serial number. So, maybe it is a carryover engine? Don't really know for sure tho.

I haven't got all that water pump business figured out yet. The impeller "floats" forward and aft in there, is driven clear out in front of the WP and is held forward by those little springs on the drive bolts, which are 2 of the bolts holding the fan also.

Putting a spacer in there is gonna put more pressure on the springs unless longer drive bolts are installed.

I'm yanking that radiator tomorrow. I wanna makes sure everything is exactly right before I put it together anyway. The radiator is new, so shouldn't be much of a problem.

Allan
 
Ya I don't do collectables either. Just wondering. I figured some people on here would be moaning about messing up an original tractor, as they like to get on you about everything else. I like it. Looks like it'd be a good tedding tractor in my operation. Course I guess you probably don't even know what a tedder is up there?
 
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