M stuck engine

[used red MN]

Just incase you missed it in my reply here it is again. ..One thing about Farmalls is a can on the muffler is not a 100 percent guarantee of keeping moisture out of the engine. The threaded connection on the exhaust pipe to the manifold does not always seal water tight..
Within the last month or so there was a discussion here about a gentleman who would start his shedded Ford up every couple of weeks and run it 10 minutes or so just to make sure it would not lock up?? His problem was that the condensation from his frequently start ups and short run times rusted up things under the valve cover eventually causing a valve to stick. My suggestion in his case was to pull the plugs before storage periods and oil the cylinders and then simply not start it but say every 6 months or when he absolutely was going to use it. I believe my suggestion fell on deaf ears and he was still going to run it but just for longer periods. Anyway after all that in your case I would suggest a monthly start. Or pull the muffler and tarp over the whole engine. Lubing the cylinders is probably also a good idea.

 

[Janicholson]

I agree in total. I will ad that rethreading the exhaust pipe in the manifold and installing a new pipe with a dose of moly anti-seize Is a good idea. and is doable if there are threads remaining. Jim

 

[rustred]

that is why it is stuck because you dont have a worn out engine with loose rings and pistons. all clearances are tight and the rings are stuck to the cyl. walls. just dump a half cup of mystery oil or atf or anything thin and give it a week. been there in these situations.

 

[Pete in Holland MI]

One cause of piston sticking is how the engine was last shut down. When you turn off a tractor by killing the spark, multiple revolutions occur without spark, drawing gasoline into the cylinders that doesn't get burned. It's even worse when engines are running fast when they are turned off. It dilutes the oil in the cylinders and washes it off the walls. I've had engines stick due to that. Engines that are not allowed to cool down some will also result in really thin oil upon shut-down. When shutting down engines that will be sitting for long term, it is better to idle them for a few minutes, then turn off the gas and let the engine die by starvation. That way, the the remaining oil isn't flushed off the cylinders with the incoming un-burned gasoline.

Several options have been offered to help you. Several penetrating solutions have been offered to pour in your cylinders (a few tablespoons each cylinder). Give the engine a few days and try the hand crank, or if you don't have a hand crank, engage the PTO and put force on it with a pipe wrench. It should eventually come loose. Patience.....

 

[redforlife]

Try cleaning a piston to oil free in a parts washer without taking the rings off. It's going to take awhile if you don't take the rings off. Going to take a considerable amount of clean solvent as well.

My point being, your gas wash down discription here is not as severe as you make it sound. And gas comes into the cylinder supposedly as a vapor. Right? If engine still rotating with no spark, the bulk of that vapor coming in is pushed back out the exhaust valve. We know some does. Because if you turn the key back on, it'll cause a backfire in the exhaust pipe.

 

[DoubleJFarmsWA]

(quoted from post at 06:40:54 10/13/23) My M engine is stuck, has not been run in a year. I know ATF is na popular choice to set in it. My question is, how much per cylinder? and do we have any concern about oil contamination? thank to all
dave

So, what we did (on a C) on a tractor that was someone yard art for years. Was started at the beginning/easiest.

We removed the plugs (added ATF), and pulled the pan off. With the pan off, we disconnected the connecting rods, and found that 1 was stuck and the other all could move (it was not at bottom of stroke, but close), reconnected rods. Next, we tried just soaking, and soaking, but to no avial. We removed the valve train from the top, (but could have just un adjusted the one cylinder). Next, we used a grease gun, and built and adapter that screwed into the spark plug hole, then started pumping it full of grease, with someone watching the bottom, it moved. We then did a cylinder that was at the top and forced it down with grease, thus pushing that bad one up to the top. Once we had done that, we could use an air compressor and put air in the cylinder and got it to move freely. We then put it back together, adjusted valves, filled with oil, and got it started. Runs good. (Never had to pull the head, and has good compression, and does not smoke). Hope that makes some since.

 

[wilson ind]

THIS has worked well for me. USE what ever you want but place a jack under the exposwed crank . HIT yhe crank often for a few dayd . THE vibration has served mr well.