M&W clutch removal

[Rock2001]

I bought a SuperM that I've been repairing. It's going, but it's leaking oil out of the M&W hand clutch. I presume there is an O-ring that needs replacing? I took off the housing bolts but I can't get the housing off. Feels to be stuck around the handle shaft area. Is it threaded somehow and has to turn out? I foolishly tried to turn the handle shaft, which seemed like it was moving but then it broke. I probably should have asked before doing that.

I don't even know if the unit is good as the handle is cracked at the pivot. I wasn't going to mess with it yet as the tractor drives, but I do want to fix the leak.

Thanks

 

[Ellis Kinney]

I'll try to answer your question. I have 2 Farmall M tractors with the hand clutch and have rebuilt both of them. There is one long bolt that holds the long handle lever and the housing to the tractor. That bolt is what the handle pivots on. Remove that along with all the shorter bolts and the shift lever should come off. Does your M have disc brakes on the right side? If so the left side has been retro fitted with the older style band brakes. DO NOT try to remove the brake seal cage from the transmission. You will break it. This hand clutch is pretty old school and not very difficult to remove. Take pictures. The brake seal cage will have an old leather seal about 1 inch wide. This will have to be removed with cold chisels and screw drivers, difficult to get out. Replace it with 2 new seals. I do not know where you can buy the fiber discs, but someone on this website had some for sale at one time. I think Delta Red (Steve) Has a unit for sale if you can't find parts. Ellis

 

[Rock2001]

But I'm stuck on step 1. How do you remove that long bolt? I used a pipe wrench on the shaft, which already seems like it can't be the right way. But the bolt snapped, so if it is threaded in at the other end then I'm in a world of trouble.

 

[DeltaRed]

I dont remember exactlyhow the pivot goes in. However,it is probably threaded into the trans ca se.Your biggest problem is probably rust. Things are rusted/stuck. There are no orings/seals. Only felt 'seals'. Those are just 'gone'.No new are available anymore.Ellis is right. I do have a clutch for sale,and most of a second.However,I will not seperate.Buy the whole thing. The M and SM clutches are similar,many parts are interchangeable.I would recomend just removeing it. But you will need pinion shaft,all brake parts.... Not a hard job.

 

[D Slater]

I bought a SuperM that I've been repairing. It's going, but it's leaking oil out of the M&W hand clutch. I presume there is an O-ring that needs replacing? I took off the housing bolts but I can't get the housing off. Feels to be stuck around the handle shaft area. Is it threaded somehow and has to turn out? I foolishly tried to turn the handle shaft, which seemed like it was moving but then it broke. I probably should have asked before doing that.

I don't even know if the unit is good as the handle is cracked at the pivot. I wasn't going to mess with it yet as the tractor drives, but I do want to fix the leak.

Thanks

If remember correct the handle pivot bolt on a SM screws into the adapter plate used to mount the M type cover and doesn't screw direct into the transmission housing. Unless the handle is rusted to bolt even if it breaks the cover will slide off. If reusing the bolt can be drilled out of adapter plate or use heat and remove. Also brake band could be stuck to drum and plates stuck. Start by removing slotted nut under small cover and work down to retaining ring for drum. After drum is off the adapter plate can be removed. After adapter plate is off the spacer, bearing and bull pinion can come out. Can install SM parts in from the side on a SM if wanting to eliminate the M&W. Need bull pinion with bearing, Bull pinion retainer plate, Brake drum and actuator, brake discs, brake bolt and part it goes through on end of clutch shaft, brake cover bolts and bull pinion oil seal. Those parts can be had from a SMTA, 400, 450 and some others. Also need bolts for differential carrier where adapter plat is mounted. Those were special bolts for the adapter plate to tractor.

 

[Rock2001]

Thanks. It doesn't seem to be stuck on the brake band as I can pull the edges of the housing away from the backing plate everywhere but the pivot bolt. I tried to pry between the two in that area while wiggling the housing, but no dice. I think I bent the backing plate. If the housing should just slide off the pivot without unthreading it I guess I can try to keep tapping around, but i don't know since I've done that and nothing yet. I'm surprised if this is so rusted as all the other mounting bolts came off with no trouble. Unless previous owner managed to remove all but the pivot I guess. Anyway I'm out of easy ideas. I'm thinking of cutting off the 'nut' on the backing plate (I'm hoping any threads are just on that and not threaded through the whole plate) and if I get it all off I can weld on a nut back there. But I'd have to take the transmission cover off to cut that which I really didn't want to do.

I'm hoping to keep it and get it working, but it depends on what I find I guess. My dream was to just weld the handle back together and it would just work, but maybe that was wishful thinking.

 

[Ellis Kinney]

More help maybe. I don't know your level of mechanical ability, so don't take this as condescending. There is a set screw at the very bottom of the housing to adjust the brake. Take it out. It may be holding to the brake band. Could you maybe post a picture or two? Ellis

 

[Rock2001]

I don't see any set screw. The only thing at the bottom seems to be an inspection hole, with no screws inside.

Here's some pictures, although I've put some stuff back on temporarily as I just broke a brake line on my car and need to kick this out of the garage for a bit. Not much to see but it sounds like the SuperM clutch may be different than others? So maybe can clarify that facet.

 

[D Slater]

I don't see any set screw. The only thing at the bottom seems to be an inspection hole, with no screws inside.

Here's some pictures, although I've put some stuff back on temporarily as I just broke a brake line on my car and need to kick this out of the garage for a bit. Not much to see but it sounds like the SuperM clutch may be different than others? So maybe can clarify that facet.

Can't tell for sure from angle if you have the adapter plate for a SM. About have to be one since almost all SM transmission housings didn't have bolt holes for cover or hole fore brake band operating shaft. Later SM didn't have bolt holes drilled in transmission cover also. From picture it looks like bolt for clutch operating lever may be screwed into transmission top cover. Regardless of if in cover or adapter plate would try heating cover where bolt passes through. Almost has to be stuck on it, or brake band shaft stuck in hole if not brake band. Does your tractor have the plate behind cover like picture? If just shift lever broke and not casting it screwed in, no big deal they can be made pretty easy, or thread end welded back on end.

 

[Rock2001]

Yeah there is a plate that the cover is bolted to. In the side picture you can see where I stuck a prybar between the two and it bent the plate. The bolt doesn't go into the transmission cover as I've had that off previously (if I knew I should have messed with this bolt then). I haven't tried heat yet so that's an idea.

 

[Rock2001]

OK I got back to this. I ended up getting a slight gap between the cover and backing plate and cut the bolt there. It was frozen into the cover, as once the cover was off I was actually able to unturn the remaining threaded stub with just fingers.

I took out most of the other parts. I got the center shaft out. So now I see what presumably is one seal for the center shaft? I presume I can pry this out and replace? (shown in pic) I'm not sure how to take off the drum. I see some bolts (allen?) behind it, but I'd kind of think that would hold the backing plate in? I'm not sure. But I assume I need to take this all out to get to 'something' that seals the outer shaft?

Offhand things look better than I expected. I don't THINK there should be a problem getting it working again.

 

[D Slater]

Retaining ring is behind seal to remove drum. Spiral from what I remember. Special bolts mount adapter plate and also fasten the differential and bull pinion housing to transmission housing. Can remove plate but leave housing in. Thinking the only other sealing toward transmission housing is Oring on a spacer located behind adapter plate.

 

[Rock2001]

Thanks. That thin spiral was almost invisible to me. I finally found some seals that seem like they should work (as long as the shaft isn't too worn). I threw it back together. Not ready to test it all yet, but I had one last question. The nut and tanged keeper at the outside. I should bend some tangs over the nut to keep it from unturning. But how does that actually do that? What keeps the nut and keeper from unturning as a pair?

Thanks

 

[caterpillar guy]

Without seeing it nor ever been around or worked on one ,I'd guess there is a flat spot on the shaft or a keyway in the shaft with a tang in that to hold the keeper from turning. Sort of like the washer with tangs on them for truck axle nuts after the bearing is adjusted.

 

[kevinj54]

Thanks. That thin spiral was almost invisible to me. I finally found some seals that seem like they should work (as long as the shaft isn't too worn). I threw it back together. Not ready to test it all yet, but I had one last question. The nut and tanged keeper at the outside. I should bend some tangs over the nut to keep it from unturning. But how does that actually do that? What keeps the nut and keeper from unturning as a pair?

Thanks

That washer is a special bearing nut lock washer. Look at McMaster Carr.

I am not sure of the exact size without getting in the shop to check.

The new ones are slightly thinner than the original but if the bearings are good they seem to hold fine.

That washer has a center tang that engages the nnalert on the clutch.

 

[Rock2001]

Ah, yes you guys are right. I see a small nub on the washer where there was an inner tang. Must have broken off. Great.

 

[kevinj54]

The washer is W06 & the nut is N06

 

[Rock2001]

Thank you. More reasonably priced than I expected.