M7040 remotes

[MARK ROBKE]

Well, here I am again. I recently asked about my remotes-one having a float position and the other does not. And I asked about locking the remote in position to run a wood splitter. I finally got to hook it up to my baler to check it out. So, the remote with float does not have any detent, so it goes back to neutral as soon as you let go of the handle. The other remote that does not have float has very stiff detents, and it does not kick back to neutral when the cylinder reaches the end of its travel. Reversing the advice I got last time, I tried to adjust it so it would return to neutral, but all I did was make it weaker and it would not open the tail gate. I even read about the adjustment in the maintenance manual, but it really did not talk about the detent at all. So, wanting my cake and eating it too, I am more wanting the lever to kick back to neutral when a cylinder reaches the end of its travel, and I am willing to tie the lever back when I am using the wood splitter. And so, what do I do now? I don't want to forget the remote and leave it straining the hydraulics while baling- I am used to the old tractor kicking back to neutral. Thanks, Mark.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

What I would do is buy a tractor just for running the log splitter. I have a tractor for every implement which saves my back big time from disconnecting - reconnecting tools.

 

[flying belgian]

What I would do is buy a tractor just for running the log splitter. I have a tractor for every implement which saves my back big time from disconnecting - reconnecting tools.

I'm at that point in my life too.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

What I would do is buy a tractor just for running the log splitter. I have a tractor for every implement which saves my back big time from disconnecting - reconnecting tools.

First of all, I don't use a wood splitter enough to have a dedicated tractor, nor the barn space. The tractor would rot from disuse.
Actually, the wood splitter was a question I had in my last post-about locking the lever. My CIH 485 had a lock on the remote lever that I used. I thought maybe the M7040 would also have the same thing, one how or the other. I won't mind tying the lever back to run a wood splitter. I have now found the lever stays stuck in whatever position I put it in. I want it to kick out when a cylinder reaches the end of its stroke, and it does not. I just now was able to hook it to the baler to test everything out. The tractor is new to me, and I am learning its little quirks.
The remote levers are very stiff, not at all like what I am used to. But I cannot believe Kubota would build the tractor so that the remote does not kick back to neutral when it strains at the end of cylinder travel. In fact, I think it is strange one remote has a float position, and one does not. So, what I am asking, is how to make the remote return to neutral. Thanks, Mark.

 

[495man]

I used my float valve for baler tailgate. I prefer the feel of the valve compared to the detent.

The detent is supposed to kick to neutral end of stroke.

I do like the CaseIH valve like your 485 has better, detent, end of stroke, float all in one.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I used my float valve for baler tailgate. I prefer the feel of the valve compared to the detent.

The detent is supposed to kick to neutral end of stroke.

I do like the CaseIH valve like your 485 has better, detent, end of stroke, float all in one.

495man, are your remote levers very stiff on your Kubota? Actually, all my levers, and shifters, are very stiff-are yours that way too? I heard about one neighbor here that said his shifters were stiff. I agree that the 485 remote is easier and worked better. Thanks, Mark.

 

[495man]

495man, are your remote levers very stiff on your Kubota? Actually, all my levers, and shifters, are very stiff-are yours that way too? I heard about one neighbor here that said his shifters were stiff. I agree that the 485 remote is easier and worked better. Thanks, Mark.

I have double valves (detent & float) on two M series (open and cab) and all work smoothly and easily. The detent valves do have a very firm detent engagement. I do keep my cables lubed on the valve end.

I will say I use my float valve the most since I have a bunch of single hose implements. The detent valve has 5 positions really (lock -up-neutral -down lock) but I find full flow requires lock and firm tug on the lever to engage the lock.

My speed levers work smooth, the range levers are a little stiff.

The single valve on the 495 is direct valve on the block so no cables or linkage to mess up.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I have double valves (detent & float) on two M series (open and cab) and all work smoothly and easily. The detent valves do have a very firm detent engagement. I do keep my cables lubed on the valve end.

I will say I use my float valve the most since I have a bunch of single hose implements. The detent valve has 5 positions really (lock -up-neutral -down lock) but I find full flow requires lock and firm tug on the lever to engage the lock.

My speed levers work smooth, the range levers are a little stiff.

The single valve on the 495 is direct valve on the block so no cables or linkage to mess up.

Well today I was at the local Kubota dealer, and, asked about this. They told me my remote should return to neutral, and the problem may be bad, rusty cables. So I am going to check them further. I did lube them when I first bought the tractor, since they were very stiff, but I did not have anything hooked up to them until a couple of days ago.
Yeah, my range lever is very stiff until it warms up a bit. I think the tractor was barn kept until it went up for sale, and then sat out without much use for a long time, so I guess some cables may be rusted.
And yeah, the 485 I just sold had a smooth functioning remote. Thanks for your input. Mark.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well, here I am again. I recently asked about my remotes-one having a float position and the other does not. And I asked about locking the remote in position to run a wood splitter. I finally got to hook it up to my baler to check it out. So, the remote with float does not have any detent, so it goes back to neutral as soon as you let go of the handle. The other remote that does not have float has very stiff detents, and it does not kick back to neutral when the cylinder reaches the end of its travel. Reversing the advice I got last time, I tried to adjust it so it would return to neutral, but all I did was make it weaker and it would not open the tail gate. I even read about the adjustment in the maintenance manual, but it really did not talk about the detent at all. So, wanting my cake and eating it too, I am more wanting the lever to kick back to neutral when a cylinder reaches the end of its travel, and I am willing to tie the lever back when I am using the wood splitter. And so, what do I do now? I don't want to forget the remote and leave it straining the hydraulics while baling- I am used to the old tractor kicking back to neutral. Thanks, Mark.

You do not need or want a remote valve to run a 3pt log splltter. Just but a male/female quick connect on any PB hose and use it to hook in the splitter.

Dan

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Actually folks, the wood splitter is not what I am concerned about. Maybe I have not explained very well in this thread, that I am now concerned about the detented lever not returning to neutral. The wood splitter was just question of, 'does the tractor have a provision to lock the lever?' I was mostly just curious. I recently bought this tractor and had not had reason to use either remote until the other day when I hooked it to the baler. Thanks, Mark.

 

[TheOldHokie]

AFAIK there were only two valve options available on that tractor - float detent (FD) and self cancelung detent (SCD)

TOH

 

[MARK ROBKE]

AFAIK there were only two valve options available on that tractor - float detent (FD) and self cancelung detent (SCD)

TOH

It's the self canceling valve that that's not canceling. That's my problem. Mark.

 

[TheOldHokie]

It's the self canceling valve that that's not canceling. That's my problem. Mark.

Hey, a new one is only $1800 !!

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Hey, a new one is only $1800 !!

I am thinking the cable(s) is/are at fault: the levers are very stiff even when unhooked from the valves. Trying some lube right now- the cables are over$150 each. I will report back. Mark.

 

[Blackhole49]

I am thinking the cable(s) is/are at fault: the levers are very stiff even when unhooked from the valves. Trying some lube right now- the cables are over$150 each. I will report back. Mark.

You should be able to tell if the valve will self cancel with the cable disconnected.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

You should be able to tell if the valve will self cancel with the cable disconnected.

Just a while ago, I was relubing the remote cables and unhooked the cable while it was straining, and, it self-canceled. So, I'm on the right track finally. Thanks, Mark.

 

[Blackhole49]

Just a while ago, I was relubing the remote cables and unhooked the cable while it was straining, and, it self-canceled. So, I'm on the right track finally. Thanks, Mark.

If those cables are plastic coated, there is probably a steel coil under the cover. You might try removing the coating to lube or soaking the whole cable in some diesel trans fluid mix. The best solution is probably just new cables.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

If those cables are plastic coated, there is probably a steel coil under the cover. You might try removing the coating to lube or soaking the whole cable in some diesel trans fluid mix. The best solution is probably just new cables.

I actually do have a new cable ordered, and if fixes the problem on the detented remote, I will replace the float valve's cable. Thanks, Mark.